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Posts posted by Yunzi

  1. For 1. On a windowsill - Mexican pings will probably do fine. The Drosera might be ok. capensis is pretty bombproof and my alicae lived but didn't thrive on a S facing window.  The Nepenthes.... ehhh ...you've got it now, so good luck but I think it might need higher humidity.  Turning the radiator off might be ok but no point letting yourself of the plants get too cold!  If you're a comfortable temp then the plants probably are too

    2. They're probably fine if you got them from hants - hes an excellent grower. Repot next year if needed.

    3. this is fine - but will run out quickly. I see roofs and drainpipes in your picture, any chance of sticking a container under those when it rains to collect rainwater. It will make things cheaper.

    4. If the windows open a crack in the summer - flies will get in. Otherwise dont worry about it.

    5. See point 1.  I dont' spray pings or drosera.

    6. No - the drosera need to stand in water in the summer months and be kept damp in the winter. The ping will be a bit more forgiving in the winter but likes summer water to sit in. 

    7. Mexican pings I think are the easiest windowsill plants to grow.


  2. I've done some terrariums - although not often containing carns.  For ones in the house you need species that will cope with constant year round temperature  (which rules out VFT as these and others need a cool dormancy) .  I cant comment on drosera as I don't grow many inside, but most Mexican pings will be fine with house temps. 

    Watch that sunlight doesn't 'cook' the insides if you're putting it close to a window.  If using artificial light then keep the levels close to what it gets in nature (roughly 12/12) and you should find your Mexican pings love it.

  3. My huge ceph has been growing fine on a S facing window for several years now.  Some of its offspring spent a winter in my highland tank with nighttime temps down to 8 degrees C with no ill affects at all.

    For watering, I water from the bottom, allow to dry then add more.  In the past I've had them wetter and as long as some airflow is present they seem fine with that too.

  4. It looks like a great setup.... however from my limited knowledge, 6500k leds would be better.  I'd be interested to see how it goes to be honest, I'd think if the LEDs are really 4w (true 4w) then the ceph might be ok, but the sundews would be too shaded.  I've used 3w cree 6500k leds (futureeden seller on ebay) and 5 of those worked well in a very small tank over some sundews.

    For my 'big' highland (orchids and a couple neps) tank I went back to using t5 bulbs as it was easier to get the setup I wanted.

  5. For a while now I've been getting a blank page when trying to access cpuk from home.  It works fine from work and over 4G on my phone as well as via a vpn or proxy when at home.  Finally got so annoyed when trying to look something up, I did some digging.  It looks like is the final 'hop' I can access when doing a traceroute .  From the IP I think this belongs to the host company for CPUK.

    Is there any reason my home IP or IP range would be blocked?


  6. I want to prefix this with the fact I'm very very very far from an expert, but I've used those LEDS (the 6500k white and the purple grow ones) from that seller and roughly worked it out to 1-2 LEDS per plant when I was growing Drosera but my lights and space were much smaller.  I now use 2x39W  sunblaster tubes and my highlands showed some 'red' on older leaves, but still seem happy enough in my L111cm x W58cm x H39cm space.  Assuming those 2 things - I'd guess 100W of LEDs would be high but acceptable.  If you build it - I'd love to see pictures.

  7. Whereas - http://downforeveryoneorjustme.com/www.cpukforum.com

    Shows it as up.  I opened the original post under this name 'DNS problems with CPUK' which hurriedly got locked by admin....hmmm.

    Seems pretty obviously a DNS issue which is why some sites/people see it as down.  If you add the ip address above  ( to your hosts file you can work around the DNS problems.  From a very quick look on some online tools, it seems the only issue is a missing SOA record which *might* be the reason some DNS servers including Googles are not listing the domain.  Or it may have been dropped for some other reason.

  8. Not sure if this is in the admins power to solve - but I can no longer load CPUK on my home connection.


    Doing a bit more digging it appears as if the google DNS servers I use ( and don't return a valid A record.  I've tried flushing the entry in googles DNS cache using their online tool, but it still gives a blank return.  Other DNS servers give the correct A record response.   I wonder if recent issues with malware have caused them to remove the record.  It may be something the CPUK ISP should investigate.

  9. My Mexican pings have largely been 100% dry since they started to move to the winter buds (couple species that didnt I gave a little water to).  They're on a sunny windowsill and kept in covered trays so hitting about 27deg C with the sunny weather.  A couple look to be coming into the summer leaves so is it safe to now give all water (a little from the tray) or just those waking up?

    Also I might uncover them (how they were last year) as I think the hot sun and warm room is not helping a couple of Ehlersiaes I've got which are now looking a little pale :-(

  10. Allow me to plagiarise the AIPC magazine special on Mexican Pings (Special issue 3) which I find is an excellent resource to looking something up.  I've added some more reader friendly descriptions in brackets.

    Description: The summer rosette is up to 5 cm broad and is composed of semi-succulent, obovate(egg shaped)-spathulate(shaped like a small spatula) leaves, densely overlapping and light green to reddish in colour. The leaf margin, involute(leaf margin rolled inwards) at the apex, is peculiar in that it is also much paler than the upper surface of the leaf. The winter rosette is pulvinate. The flower is quite large, usually about 2 cm wide with cuneiform(wedge shaped) lobes coloured from pale pink to lilac. It is paler at the throat and shows a pubescent, yellowish spot on the lower median lobe. Flowering occurs in the period of vegetative resumption.

    Description: The compact summer rosette, composed of overlapping semi-succulent leaves, can reach 5 cm in diameter and is very similar to those of P. esseriana and P. ehlersiae, as is the winter rosette. The corolla is lilac in colour with cuneate-obovate shaped lobes that are 0.8 to 1.2 cm long, with a yellow to brown spot on the median lower lobe. The throat is paler with a faint veining and pubescent. Flowering occurs at the end of winter dormancy.

    It seems the difference really is very small. I know of my plants in the current winter rosette there is no discernible difference between Jaumavensis, Esseriana and Ehlersiae. 

    • Like 1
  11. Whilst looking up something else in wikipedia I came across the following quote:

    "Charles Darwin – erroneously believing Saxifraga to be allied to the sundew family (Droseraceae) – suspected the sticky-leaved Round-leaved saxifrage (S. rotundifolia), Rue-leaved saxifrage (S. tridactylites) and Pyrenean saxifrage (S. umbrosa) to be protocarnivorous plants, and conducted some experiments whose results supported his observations,[19] but the matter has apparently not been studied since his time.[citation needed]"


    Does anyone know any more about plants of this genus being protocarnivorous or know if any further work has been done in studying this?  Or indeed, has it all been totally debunked?



  12. Nope - cant see the photos and I'm using firefox on Linux (not that I believe OS or browser is the issue).


    David - pretty much any image manipulation software should be able to resize an image - GIMP (gimp.org) is free but there are many others available.


    Does anyone on the CPS side know if/when the ICPS is releasing the videos of the lectures?  Its frustrating to be both a CPS and ICPS member and not be able to view things like this. Its 2016  - it really shouldn't be a major technical challenge to upload them somewhere.  Issues like this lose rather than encourage membership.

  13. I'm not an expert but obviously from my earlier postings I've been looking at this.  I'd guess that given the price and some of the comments on more illegal growing forums (the things I have to google....) there is no way on earth that puts out what you'd expect from 45W.  My guess is its using cheap Chinese LEDs that are only a fraction as efficient as advertised.  A real 45W LED light with the correct spectrum on the other hand would be pretty good on a small scale I think.  Wouldn't be a tenner though.   There seem to be some nice PAR (purpley coloured output) LED bulbs for about £20 for 36W that look ok.   I'm also looking at using Epistar or Bridgelux LEDs and making my own - similar but bigger to the one I made previously.

    I really hope there can be some discussion around this - lots of misinformation out there and I'd love to learn more about whats worked for other people.

  14. As an aside to my happily growing collection I've also started to look for native CPs in the wild in the UK.   When I know I'm going to be somewhere a bit more rural than the West Midlands I do some internet research for sites where it may be possible to find some.  Thus far I've found not a single specimen.  I'm curious if this forum could put together a list of places in the UK where species have been found recently.  Also would it be worth listing 'negatives' - sites where historically species may have been found but are not any longer?  It may save the wet trousers and soaked boots I got this weekend :-).


    For negatives - I would say with some confidence that

    - Hartlebury common (Acid bog bit) in Worcestershire

    - Cledden Bog in Monmouthshire


    Dont have any Drosera although both sites are listed as having some as recently as 2010 in the case of Cledden Bog.  Both sites do however have a nice range of Sphagnum and other bog plants including orchids and bog asphodel.

  15. Finding information on Mexican Ping potting soil is maddening - everyone seems to have their own version.  For what its worth, I use a mostly perlite mix with some aquarium sand and peat thrown in.  Very roughly I'd say 80% Perlite 10-15% peat and the rest sand.  All my mexicans seems fine in that.  I have a Pinguicula moranensis that I got from a non carnivorous nursery that seems to be in a peat mix.  Its entirely anecdotal - but it seems to grow less well than the ones in 'my' mix.   Having said that - I also have a  laueana from a well know UK seller thats in peat/moss and its wonderful.


    I want to try cat litter when I start to propagate the leaves in the spring.




    Was a link I found on this forum that is really rather fantastic.

    • Like 1
  16. I've seen this on the CPS website but not really anywhere else.  I can probably go on the sunday but was wondering if its worth the drive, especially as I have less interest in Sarracenia and more in Pings/Cephs and other tropicals.  Anyone coming feel free to comment below.

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