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This is a follow-up to this thread I made about 8 years ago. Unfortunately, the pics in that thread are down, but it is the same site. Basically, this is a site in Xizhi, New Taipei City where Utricularia graminifolia was introduced. It grows with Drosera spatulata. Apparently in the past there was also Utricularia smithiana, tricolor, and livida at the site but I've never seen them. It is a roadside with pipes that has water continuously flowing down. The location is fairly rural and is on a mountainside, although the skyscrapers of Taipei are visible in the distance. Since my last visit, the colony has spread and there are two now, with patches of Utricularia in between. The main colony is about 10 meters or so across and the second one is maybe 3 meters across. I managed to catch a cluster of plants in flower and the blooms looked quite beautiful.

This forum porvides a service and serves to share information, so I would certainly leave content available. However, this forum is also very valuable to communicate open days, European and international meetings and open days. While the UK numbers are lower due to all the problems caused by Brexit (and that works both ways!), this is still important information as people still visit/participate even if buying and taking something home is more difficult (untill the politicians see the light/voters kick them out and start rebuilding). I can understand the problems an UK based society with mostly (but not exclusively) UK members has with funding this forum, though the cost you mention are suprisingly small). I would therefore advocate your third option as this still is one of the most used sales options and I think it is fair if you charge for that. I would make a difference between a sale of some seeds at 2 or 3 euro or pound a portion ( which I would keep free) and the sales i see that charge over 100 euro or pound for a plant. Charging the same fees as ebay or other less moderated and less reliable platforms is with those commercial pricing

The main plant has 10+ heads now and is catching many flies. It has finally stopped flowering but an odd flower or two will still pop up at times. There was some space in the pot so I transferred a few seedlings here. Also 2 more seedlings apparently fallen from the mother plant popped up on their own. Seedlings in pure mineral media. Seedlings in different types of media. The ones in pure mineral dry out too fast (even in winter) so from now on I will be adding just a bit of peat so as not to waste so much water.

First flower of this year. Frithia pulchra, the 'fairy elephant's feet', gosh, you have to love it just for that name! Not as short lived as Lithops flowers are, nearly closes every evening and needs full sun to open well.

Here is a few pictures of two bog species that I grow in the unheated greenhouse here in Denmark. Lilium iridollae and Lilium catesbaei. Both were obtained as seed back in 2018 and sown the same year. L catesbaei flowered after 18 months including a 6 month hibernation. L iridollae flowers for the first time here in summer 2023! They grow in one of my indoor bogs together with mainly Sarracenia minor clones and S. rosea. Pure peat, moist but not really waterlogged for long. Highest temperature during the summer is 48C and lowest around minus 8 or 10C. Both extreams not for long. Anyway, they both appear easy under pitcherplant conditions. L. iridollae flower. Poor picture. Sorry! But it shows some of the bog and how small the Lilium is. L. iridollae flower from a different angle. The beautiful L. catesbaei! Martin

Another fierce looking flower! Short-lived and a very intense scent.

Found a few years ago among a 'lithops-mix' at a hardware store, this one is one of the offspring from the first flowers of the rare Lithops cf. werneri. It took them three years. A little surprise at this time of the year. 🙂 Tiny, but not as tiny as recorded for growing in nature.

A tiny, perfect, yellow flower with a heady, spicy scent.

Sometimes these species be a bit difficult to ID. But here are some pictures of the various species and hybrids. Drosera intermedia Drosera intermedia - when you grow them in warm water during the summer 🙂 Drosera anglica Drosera anglica Drosera anglica - two colors Drosera rotundifolia Drosera x eloisiana Hope this helps Martin

Monitoring Venus Flytraps in Florida: Amazing 1-year timelapse About 1500 km south of their native habitats in the Carolinas, Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula), propagated from seeds, find a comparable environment in open long leaf pine forest on the property of Bill Scholl in northern Florida. Originally, they relied on occasional wildfires that remove not only dry undergrowth but also the wiregrass that often grows over them. Presently, on Bill’s property, they benefit from controlled burns done by Bill and his burn team to manage the habitat. ften only the parts of the Venus flytraps near the surface are killed by the fire so they quickly resprout in areas cleared of overgrowth, although, where wiregrass is abundant it rapidly grows over the flytraps. In the summer, tropical storms and hurricanes are common with heavy rains that temporally inundate the Venus flytraps. A controlled burn was done on the forest surrounding the Venus flytraps in this timelapse in April, the effects of which can easily be seen in this amazing timelapse over the complete year of 2022. We (Irmgard and myself) edited and produced this film in collaboration with Dr. Stephen Williams (USA), who assembled the timelapse sequences from daily photos taken by a stationary wildlife camera, and Bill Scholl, who did the video monitoring on his property.

I could not post eigther. I think the thread is for members in the british CP society only. I agree with you. This forum is very valuable to me. Lots of searchable good information and my only source for plants. I would be happy to pay a pound per sales add or maybe 10 pounds a year? I think this forum have the potential to draw profit to the society indtead of beeing a cost. Maybe not the aim for the society, but still a shame to close.

Pexceptional plant from all points of view nothing to do with the mother plant....this is a giant ....Not to mention the color.... gorgeous

stands out among all

ricevuto_1356902268431319.mp4

Here is my 1.5 year old drosophyllum. It is about to bloom. I am wondering if it is not too late to for blooming and seed production

Hi all. First time back since 2019! Lockdown took a lot out of me, but I still have my outside bogs and a Nepenthes hanging up in the window (which I have succcessfully propagated and given to a friend). But here's a little something I wrote a couple of weeks ago, just popped into my head. 😁 Ode to a Venus Fly Trap My leaves are green, my mouth is red I wait in patience to be fed I have no eyes to see the sky No ears to hear the humming fly But insect of my scent beware For should you trip my trigger hair My jaws will close with silent snap And you will struggle in my trap For I’m the arthropod consumer Dionaea Muscipula

🥳🥳

https://forum.carnivoren.org/forums/topic/54655-problem-with-nepenthes-xkinabulensis/ Here the last post got the answer. It is not a pest. Too much and too often water on the leafs, can cause edema with certain Nepenthes species. Try too keep the leafs dry for longer periods.

This was in November the same year, just half a year later.

Is anyone up to date on the current classification of Pinguicula heterophylla and P. medusina? I have encountered plants in various parts of the Sierra Norte and Valles Centrales regions of Oaxaca recently. They produce plantlets on their leaf tips, allegedly a hallmark of Pinguicula medusina, but do not flower in the summer, following expectations for P. heterophylla in that regard. Do all P. heterophylla really produce leaf tip plantets or is something else going on here? Here are photos from one of the locations: Pinguicula medusina and P. moranensis in the Ixtepeji.

Its beautiful feature ... stands out among many

Here is a few pictures from one of my bog gardens. These are located in central Jutland, Denmark. For many weeks now we have had unusual large amount of rain. As you can see Drosera filiformis filiformis are doing very well. These have been sown in the bog and are originally from Ocean co. This one is Drosera x hybrida. You can also see runners from one of the Darlingtonia clonal groups. There is a number of seed grown Darlingtonia clonal groups in this bog. They were sown by myself in 2017. They seems to enjou our danish climate. During winter the leaves are gone, killed by frost. In Denmark, as in many other places in Europe, we have introduced populations of Sarracenia. Unlike many other places one of our populations are hybrids. Often these are very colorful. These two are stolen from an old introduced population.

I am unable to post in the forum announcement section of the forum so have to reply here. Could the members on here not be asked to contribute a minimal amount of money per year as well as those who are selling to keep the forum going? £200 isn’t a vast amount of money and wouldn’t require a huge amount from the members who do use the forum.

Pirks, as tropfrog has hinted, tº fluctuations (cool to cold nights) and growing them on the dry side could do the flower-trick. Always keep in mind that 'sun' ≠ 'sun'. We are all posting from quite distant and different places. The UV indices at my place are now up to 12; summer in, lets say Shropshire, gets 4. Add to this different soils we all have. So, watching your Lithops closely will be the best advice for watering. If there are wrinkles on the side of the body in early morning, sprinkle next afternoon - evening.

Watering at the wrong time of the year will make lithops expand in all directions, that is not elongation. They don't get leggy, they get fat. It can be so severe that it blows up. Flowering is triggered by temperature fluctuations. Location and climate is the key here. Where I am in Western sweden nobody I know have problems getting them to flower.

Dionaea "Red micro-teeth" This dionaea is a seedling from the following crossing :[(Microdent x Hollande red)x Ruby red], Ruby Red being an unregistered cultivar, bred in July 2011. This all dark red plant is fairly round, prostrated with traps lashes looking like short and sharp teeth. This dionaea can be cloned by the following means: leaf or rhizome cuttings.

Growing outside, east facing window, lots of sun, wind and critters. Two plants, nearly equal in size, flowering now. Five stems on one plant, one stem on the other.

Beautiful ...... careful the stems are easily subject to powdery mildew

Hi folks Apologies, this is my error - I hadn't realised that you wouldn't be able to reply to the announcement and although I'd watched that post for replies, I missed the new thread here. Thanks for your suggestions also, we will definitely take these into account before deciding on any next steps. Best Dave

I forgot some Drosophyllum seedlings last December outside. -15 for several nights and finally thawing after two weeks. I have them growing on floating islands with only a few centimeters of substrate. After thawing I put them in my frost-free studio. Light level in winter is quite low. I put some aluminum foil behind to increase the light. Now they start again to grow. First picture is after the thawing, second from today.

Hello I have been in the CP hobby for just three years. However bern fascinated by these plants for many years. This winter I started my first highland setup. I am happy for all inputs from more experienced growers.

Hi, i would remove the moss with tweezers! It prevents the exchange of oxygen! This moss makes an extremely dense layer. The water in the substrate can evaporate better and allows the roots to breath again. I have basically been doing this for a few years. You can replace the removed moss with pure quartz sand 1-2mm. best regards Tobias

I want to do a bigger update later but for now let me share some notes: - I can confirm they will endure extreme heat. Mine endured 35 - 39C for 2+ months. I was almost certain they would die, I think they came close. No dew production at all, constantly limp and wilted. However, once the temps started going down in the middle of September, new shoots started appearing on the branches and they started growing again. I should note I moved them into the shade and watered every single day, too. In spite of this they looked terrible. I am keeping track of 5 drosophyllum locations in Portugal, apparently the temps there are 26-30C in summer. So, I don't think they appreciate 35+C at all... Also they never stopped flowering. Started in late April and still flowering as of this moment. At some point it looked like they were flowering themselves to death due to extreme heat. But all seems to be well since September because they are also catching again. Love seeing the new shoots, it looks like many branches are forming. Working with fresh seeds is magic ! Can you believe these started germinating after only 6 days ? I couldn't believe my eyes because I remember how difficult it was in the past. I hope I can keep them all alive because I want to experiment with substrate. But it looks like they are coming up strong.

Hi Aviv, Are you able to share a photo of your Cephalotus on here, so members can see if they notice anything wrong? I usually do not repot Cephalotus on arrival, but if the mix they are in does not look suitable then I would. Many people seems to be scared of repotting them, but personally I haven't really had any issues doing so, as long as a little TLC is given after repotting, i.e. keep humidity higher whilst the plants roots re-establish in the new mix. You might find this site of some use: https://cephalot.us

pianta sana è robusta .... cresciuta da seme .....

So this summer I had 5 plants. At the peak of summer I was watering them every 2 days and apparently it wasn't enough because I lost 3 of them. The remaining two plants I watered every day and they survived. My media is mostly mineral so what worked for other growers (ie watering less) didn't work in my conditions. It was interesting to observe that they shrank to almost half their size during the hottest months. Little dew (althought they kept catching) and they lost their upright claw-like form. Then we had a week when there was very strong morning dew (everything looked wet like it had just rained) and they almost doubled in size with big droplets of dew and went right back to their upright form. It was amazing to see how they reacted so positively to morning dew. Here they are now 3 months later.

I'd like to welcome Marcel van den Broek to the moderating staff of CPUK Forum. Marcel is eagle eyed for spammers and I'm sure he'll do a great job helping to keep things clean and tidy. Thank you for your service, @Marcel van den Broek

New Paludarium for Heliamphora Plants 1. Heliamphora arenicola (Tramen Tepui) 2. Heliamphora chimantensis (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela) 3. Heliamphora ciliata 4. Heliamphora collina (Foothills Testigos) 5. Heliamphora exappendiculata (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora exappendiculata (Apacapa Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora exappendiculata (Aprada Tepui) 6. Heliamphora folliculata (Aparaman Tepui, Venezuela) 7. Heliamphora hispida (Cerro Neblina, Venezuela) 8. Heliamphora huberi "Broad leaf form" (Akopan Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora huberi (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela) 9. Heliamphora ionasii Heavily Red Striped 10. Heliamphora minor Big Orange Heliamphora minor (Auyan Tepui, Venezuela) 11. Heliamphora neblinae (Avispa, Venezuela) Heliamphora neblinae (Cerro Neblina, Brazil, Venezuela) 12. Heliamphora nutans Heliamphora nutans (Kukenam Tepui) 13. Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina, Brazil, Venezuela) 14. Heliamphora pulchella (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora pulchella (Apacapa Tepui, Venezuela) 15. Heliamphora purpurascens (Ptari Tepui, Venezuela) 16. Heliamphora sarracenioides (Ptari Tepui, Venezuela) 17. Heliamphora spec. Akopan 18. Heliamphora spec. Angasima 19. Heliamphora spec. Yuruani B 20. Heliamphora tatei (Cerro Duida, Venezuela) 21. Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela) 22. Heliamphora ceracea (Cerro Neblina, Brazil, Venezuela) 23. Heliamphora elongata (Ilu Tepui) 24. Heliamphora glabra (S. Do Sol, Guyana) 25. Heliamphora heterodoxa 26. Heliamphora macdonaldae (Cerro Duida, Venezuela) Drosera hirticalyx (Cerro Marahuaca, Venezuela) Drosera kaieteurensis (Chimanta Tepui) Drosera roraimae (Gran Sabana) Drosera roraimae (Serra do Araca) Brocchinia reducta Brocchinia hechtioides Navia sp. (Chimanta Tepui) Catopsis berteroniana Utricularia humboldtii "Broad leaf form" (Cerro Neblina) Utricularia humboldtii x quelchii Utricularia pubescens Utricularia quelchii (Auyan Tepui) Utricularia gibba (Brazil, Alagoas, Quebrangulo, Tres Lagoas, Pedra Tahlada) Utricularia longifolia Peperomia reptans (Akopan Tepui)

As well as CP's I grow several plants of Aristolochia. These plants have amazing flowers that trap insects for pollination. A. sempervirens These flowers are only a couple of CM long, but the plant gets smothered with them. They have a mushroomy smell which is quite strong. The plant is fairly tardy in the UK. A grifithii Another fairly hardy plant (apparently). A macroura This is by far my favourite. The flowers are amazingly similar to Sarracenia pitchers but they absolutely stink. These are flowers from a couple of years ago, still waiting for buds to form this year. A gigantea This is an extremely vigorous plant that produces large flowers. They have no smell at all I also grow 2 forms of A. fimbriata that I am still waiting for them to flower and A. chiquitensis. I

Here are some pictures of my "Tank Ceph 2", sibling to 'Eden Black'. It's only small but putting out new baby pitchers on a regular basis.

Heliamphora pulchella (Apacapa Tepui) Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui) Heliamphora ionasii (Ilu Tepui) Heliamphora glabra (S. Do Sol, Guyana) Heliamphora purpurascens (Ptari Tepui)

thanks guys Well You understood, the greenhouse is open to the public at open days, usually when they are educational events, at other times you need to make an appointment. Tepui are made of cement and painted My English is too weak to describe it exactly, but the pictures it shows Chimanta Massif

Heliamphora heterodoxa x minor Heliamphora arenicola (Tramen Tepui) Heliamphora huberi (Amuri Tepui)

That good to hear, I received a jamesoniana a month ago and potted it into some chunky sphagnum, every other media I tried was death for jamesoniana in my conditions. It was divided potted up into five separate mixes and the only one that lived and know is filling it's small pot up is the one in pure slow growing live sphag. I used a half height pot filled with live sphag and then cut some holes in the bottom and threaded some live moss thru the holes and then rested that pot in a normal height pot with the lsm wick touching the bottom of the normal height pot, then I put it in my water tray for terrestrial utrics. It's doing good now, so it was lucky I tried a couple of mixes. Mark

Heliamphora minor (Auyan Tepui) Heliamphora minor Big Orange and Heliamphora minor Selection 1

I know this thread is old but I just received an order from this seller. For €25 (not including P&P) I ordered a collection consisting of young plants... Dionaea muscipula Nepenthes hookeriana Heliamphora minor Cephalotus follicularis Drosera madagascariensis Drosera prolifera Darlingtonia californica All arrived bare-root yesterday in full health and well packaged(based on how none were even wilted). And to my surprise I was sent two of most things. Those that didn't arrive in twos were the VFT of which he sent FIVE! They are of two unnamed cultivars(I suspect dentate and red/green dragon) The cephalotus and darlingtonia were both large clusters of young plants. In the end the only thing that was as I expected (that didn't surpass expectation by a mile) was the nepenthes and it is still a lovely healthy little plant. Dealing with Michal Kouba (the owner) was also very good, he was very helpful and let me tweak the "Basic collection" that is listed on his site to chose plants that I preferred. So from my dealing with this seller I would say that in my experience they are quite good.

While exploring Darlingtonias with my friend Rob Co, we found a site in Del Norte Co, CA that seems to be isolated from the rest of the populations that are normally found in the area. This is found at around 5,000 feet above sea-level, so I suppose it's considered a montane habitat. Fortunately, it hadn't snowed yet, so we lucked out and were able to see this site. In previous years, snow prevented us from being able to see the higher elevation plants. The site was extensive, and if I had to guess, there were probably more than 20,000 plants here. IT seems when they put in the road and drainage, it destroyed the fen that was downhill, but uphill, the fen was thriving! The artificial ditch became an ideal habitat for these plants as indicated by the dense population that covers it. There were 4 or 5 different seeps that all drained into the roadside ditch, and surprisingly, this location was relatively close to the top of the mountain. It faced the east side, so the plants are likely shaded in the late afternoon, which helps keep the site cool. All photos taken 10/11/13: "Hey Rob!" The moment he turned his head, click: These plants were densely populating the roadside ditch: An extensive population: every last square inch that could be colonized had a plant: One of the fens or seeps that fed into the roadside ditch: Another seep in the same area: more habitat shots: Water is constantly running from the hillside. Check out those plants hanging on the cliff! The old pitchers from previous years eventually becomes substrate: Closer shot: notice how they're growing on almost pure, alluvial rock: Densely packed: The plants at this site were "normal" in size...no giants like I've seen elsewhere, but they can vary in size from year to year. In other words, they still could get giant: Another habitat shot: And now for some close-ups-diversity was decent here: Some slightly red ones: Nice green bodies with a contrasting red tongue: Now, you may think, OMG, a very yellow clone! While we did find plants that were very yellow (and likely due to genetics), this one was water stressed and growing in a very dry area. Notice the damage on the pitcher from a lack of water perhaps a month or two ago: Still, it's quite incredible: One last shot: A nice clone:

Hi All, I have just purchased some pure Neem Oil to use for an Insecticide for a few of my plants. The directions say to add 2 tbsp per gallon and 1 1/2 tbsp of dish soap per liter to help dissolve the oil into the water. So is this concentration of soap harmful to my plants or will they be ok with it? I have a few Byblis that have a bunch of tiny black bugs on them, and a few Nepenthes with scale. Thanks