Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/16/2021 in all areas

  1. Pinguicula season is advancing in southern Spain. Here, a large flowering clump of P. vallisneriifolia. One of my favourite species, fortunately still with several healthy populations with hundreds to thousands of plants. This species typically grows on calcareous cliffs that are very wet year round, often with some running water. Cold in winter, with frequent frosts (but not or rarely freezing solid), and hot in summer, although the places where the plants sit remain relatively fresh. It is one of the largest species, large adult plants may have leaves over 25 cm long! I hope you like it.
    5 points
  2. Hi all, the same procedure as every year: My plants of U. menziesii showing first flowers after division and repotting. In the german cp society GFP i have posted a complete manual of this beautiful species.... best regards Tobias
    4 points
  3. Droseara auriculata growing beside major urban motorway in Auckland, New Zealand
    4 points
  4. Hello everyone, I wish to share with you some photos of a bog garden I made in my parents-in-law's garden. It is located in south center Poland. Hardiness zone 6B. Last autumn there was -15°C (5°F). Basically all plants lived through that including D. arcturi. That peat bog is in its third year after building. In some places it is too wet and Sarracenia produce phyllodia more than pitchers, so the soil humidity is the key factor for nice pitchers. Of course direct sunlight is also super important. I am experimenting with species, that might be hardy like U. dichotoma and U. monanthos and proved to be hardy. Darlingtonia califormica also lived well, but I think, that too much Seramis in previous mix might have caused its regress, so now it will have regular Sphagnum:perlite mixture. I hope it will improve now. I suspect D. regia could be also hardy, which I will check on the second peat bog made last year. This peat bog proved me that even in center Poland Sarracenia can look as good as in a glass house. I take basically no care of it. I visit it from time to time. I also don't have to water it, since it has around 600l water reservoir built inside it, so it keeps enough moisture to live through the most hottest days. Only when the Sphagnum dries too much I water it or refill the water reservoir a bit, because I don't want the Sphagnum to look unattractive. I should make a third acidic beat bog for Sphagnum carpet specifically, so it would keep loads of moisture, but there are not that many attractive plants I could plant there... and there is no space for it. I hope that below photos will inspire some of you to create one in your own garden if you have a possibility to. Hope you enjoy! S. 'Carnilandia' Sarracenia oreophila x S. alata 'black tube' Sarracenia flava var. ornata x S. oreophila "De Kalb" clone B Sarracenia flava var. ornata (Giardino Carnivoro) In front: Sarracenia leucophylla x S. flava var. rugelii X S. x moorei 'Adrian Slack' clone 1 Sarracenia leucophylla Very white, thin red veins. Meeting Mira S. Leucophylla L30 Red & White Sarracenia 'Dino Almacolle' H126 Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F102 Sarracenia flava red tube x S. alata red H26 Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F161 L: Sarracenia flava var. ornata F47, R: Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F161 (Mike King) S. 'Tygo' Sarracenia x excellens Eddie Bates H152 Od lewej: S. flava var. flava, Anthocyanin free. Shallotte, S. 'Goldie', S. 'Leah Wiklerson' z prawej: S. 'Leah Wilkerson' x S. 'Adrian Slack' Sarracenia flava var. atropurpurea clone F130G S. oreophila O22 From left: S. flava var. flava, Anthocyanin free. Shallotte, S. 'Goldie', S. 'Leah Wiklerson', on the right: S. 'Leah Wilkerson' x S. 'Adrian Slack' Front plain: S. 'Judith Soper', back plain: S. leucophylla L31A x ‘A Porais’ S. alata var. ornata Heavy vein A16 Calopogon tuberosus D. fuschii var. alba D. fuschii var. alba Eleorchis japonica Eleorchis japonica var. alba Pogonia ophioglossoides Carex pulicaris Drosera binata - does very well grows to its full potential and flowers very well too. There are many on the peat bog, but it is hard to take a good picture of them. D. intermedia D. intermedia x filiformis Dionaea muscipula region with D. filiformis D. muscipula 'Red Dragon' D. muscipula 'Kronos' D. muscipula 'Kayan' D. muscipula 'Warewolf' Possibly D. muscipula 'Pink Venus' but it might also be 'Red Dragon' Anoplius cf. viaticus - poor spider. :/ I saw the whole thing how the wasp stung chased, stunged, dragged and burried the spider on the peat bog. :/ Thymelicus spp. on S. oreophila
    4 points
  5. My collection has expanded quite a bit since my last post here Here's a couple of my favorites- Hurricane Creek White Mike King clone F And Splinter Hill from Mike King- The Bog Island is doing really well- Overall, it's a lot of fun collecting these and hope you enjoy the photos!
    4 points
  6. in the weekend of the 9th and 10th of October Carnivora will host an EEE! Well, unless the rules relating to the COVID situation change of course. The Botanical garden in Leiden has agreed to host this weekend, so great location... check! As we are all dying to get a descent event on the menu again let's keep our fingers crossed that the sailing is smooth. More details will follow as they develop.
    4 points
  7. 2007 purchased from Hampshire Carnivorous plants as a semi-mature plant (probable origin Borneo Exotics) Lower pitchers in 2022 after travelling to Cornwall and then to Germany (between 2010 and 2011) Intermediate pitcher 2022 Top view 2022 Upper pitcher 2022
    3 points
  8. Only some snapshots of todays bests
    3 points
  9. Very interesting Cephalotus germination process I mentioned this post on the following site. https://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/37940-cephalotus-seed-germination/ Fortunately, I was able to take a picture and would like to share it with you. Dr. Hasebe, who noticed that I was removing the seed coats of some plant species, taught me an interesting literature on the germination of Cephalotus. This article is on a pay site and cannot be accessed. https://www.publish.csiro.au/BT/BT19053 I wanted to share a photo with people like me who couldn't read this document. I have sown Cephalotus many times, but I was unaware of this interesting germination process as I am only half awake at all times. I mentioned Utricularia species in a forum as an exception to plants those roots do not first emerge from seeds. https://www.terraforums.com/forums/threads/how-old-is-too-old.142820/ I have to add Cephalotus to it. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51333047133_442c94cdac_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51333832245_cf2d3eb1d8_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51333047103_df7f532892_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51669945008_6fbe8e24fa_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51670390504_c8e97d0c21_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51668906507_44a82c7ea3_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51670582395_55719a33bc_c.jpg
    3 points
  10. Drosera spatulata is present in large numbers at the mountainous location below in the temperate North Island, New Zealand. As can be seen, they are happy on the exposed moss covered rhyolitic surfaces.
    3 points
  11. Near the 'Bory Tucholskie' National Park Drosera intermedia -
    3 points
  12. Hi Damiano, sorry, your Darlingtonia looks dead. It will not recover if the rhizome is completely brown even if the pitcher tips are still green. You could cut the rhizome to remove all brown parts until you get to the whitish/green part, but probably it is too late now and nothing wil be left. Darlingtonia rots easily if the substrate gets too hot or if the plant got too hot during shipment. Next time: Find a spot with good sun in the moroning and avoid direct sun after noon. Darlingtonia likes a lot of light as long as it is cool but it will live happily in semi shade when it gets hot. Adding ice to the water will produce extreme temperature changes that most plants don't like. Rather: Use a big pot - it will stay cool longer that way. Surround the pot with other pots or lower the pot in a peat/sand plunge, so the sun can't shine onto the pot. Don't use a lid / glass cover. A place with good air movement will help to keep the plant cool by evaporation. A Sphagnum cover is good as long as it does not overgrow the plant. Spray now and then. As long as the Sphagnum is happy Darlingtonia will thrive too. Eric
    3 points
  13. I really have fun growing 'Squat'
    3 points
  14. Update: Utricularia longifolia “multi-flowered scape” Araponga, Minas Gerais state, Brazil The photos were taken on May 25th. There are seeds that are likely to germinate from now on, but they will not be able to be separated, so I would transplant them. In the first place I didn't count how many seeds I had sown, so it's not appropriate to mention germination rates. But to put it bluntly, I'm satisfied. There are still a lot of seeds because I just sown a part of the packet. Then I would like to pick up seeds that look decent appearance and examine the germination rate.
    3 points
  15. Hi folks A quick introduction. I'm Dave, and I've recently taken over the role of Internet Officer for the Carnivorous Plant Society. That comes with responsibility for managing the CPUK Forum as well as the CPS website and various other bits and pieces. I haven't previously been an active member of this forum although I have referred to it for cultivation advice from time to time. I do have some experience looking after other forums and I'll do my best to keep this one in good shape. The Society has been through a bit of a rough patch over the past few years. I'm one of a number of new members of the Management Committee who are working to get things back into smooth operation and to provide a better experience for the Society's members. CPS members should have received notification of the AGM which is being held at the end of May via Zoom - we'd really appreciate your participation to help us set a positive direction for the Society over the coming year. If you haven't received an invitation, please let me know and I'll look into it. I look forward to supporting your community :)
    2 points
  16. Drosera cistiflora 2022:
    2 points
  17. Questo cephalotus è un qualcosa di indescrivibile...... Pronunciato col peristoma,le costole, il cappello.......ha caratteristiche che non hanno altri miei cephalotus
    2 points
  18. Pianta molto vigorosa ,colorazione bellissima ,particolare la bocca stretta , corpo allungato , nato da seme.....tutto da osservare.....molto interessante
    2 points
  19. Hi Jon all the native sundews will be dormant at this time of year and will have reduced greatly in size - as will native butterworts. They will reappear in the Spring. Generally speaking, carnivorous plants are slow to produce mature plants from seed (years in some cases) which is likely to be frustrating for a 5 year old! Please PM me If your son would like some freebie sarracenia (north american pitcher plants). These are also dormant but will return to growth in the Spring. There are some growing guides on the CPS website which offer some good advice. cheers Dennis
    2 points
  20. Hello everyone, this summer I visited this fantastic place in the Italian Alps, you walk a lot but when you arrive it's a real paradise ... The stream that cuts through the valley comes directly from the glacier, and creates these swamps, full of sphagnum, I have looked carefully for sundew but have not seen any... However, there were a lot of pinguicula at the edge of the creek too ...
    2 points
  21. WOWWW they look great!
    2 points
  22. Utricularia livida & dichotoma Utricularia dichotoma
    2 points
  23. Although in full sun and cold this cephalotus remains green.
    2 points
  24. So this summer I had 5 plants. At the peak of summer I was watering them every 2 days and apparently it wasn't enough because I lost 3 of them. The remaining two plants I watered every day and they survived. My media is mostly mineral so what worked for other growers (ie watering less) didn't work in my conditions. It was interesting to observe that they shrank to almost half their size during the hottest months. Little dew (althought they kept catching) and they lost their upright claw-like form. Then we had a week when there was very strong morning dew (everything looked wet like it had just rained) and they almost doubled in size with big droplets of dew and went right back to their upright form. It was amazing to see how they reacted so positively to morning dew. Here they are now 3 months later.
    2 points
  25. Sorry guys, haven't really got the hang off uploading photos on here let's hope this works...
    2 points
  26. Or you could look into buying RO water from a local aquarium shop. Mine charges 17p/litre, many charge less. Guy
    2 points
  27. I dry it up and sift out all cource materials and reuse. If it is not broken down it is still good. The rest goes in the compost and will eventually be part of the garden soil. I do the same for all my potted plants, not only cps.
    2 points
  28. New cultivar, Cephalotus follicularis ‘Squat’. Deserving of cultivar status in my mind as its pitcher shape is very distinctive. https://cpn.carnivorousplants.org/articles/CPNv50n2p87_91.pdf?fbclid=IwAR39SwYzPtovj0yCo--oyR64mibcznV2r4PoYWdPy_Yz2OYld2OrG4ZT2T0
    2 points
  29. Here is mine C "Big Boy".
    2 points
  30. My open day this year is planned for Sat 3rd July 2021. 12-5. All welcome. Plants for sale and refreshments available.
    2 points
  31. Hello everyone, This Monday me with my friend visited the small bog near the Minsk. Unfortunately, there are only Drosera rotundifolia and nothing more of other carnivorous plants. Seems that they started growing from hibernacula quite recently. They are veeery small and partially are inside the sphagnum moss. General view of the sunny open space of the bog: TDS: And a lot of plants:
    2 points
  32. Cephalotus 'Bananito' is seedgrown C. 'Eden Black" x self. The clone has unusual tall, slim and quite elongated pitchers in the adult pitchers... Cephalotus 'Bananito' left versus its parent C. 'Eden Black' right
    2 points
  33. Krasne Lake (Nature Reserve near the village Lipczynek, NW Poland) Drosera intermedia Drosera intermedia and Lycopodiella inundata
    2 points
  34. Era una piccola divisione senza radici....ci sono voluti 3 mesi per farlo ambientare.....mi ha subito stupito la sua facilità nel diventare scuro....
    1 point
  35. Hi Jon, My Plant that I harvested the Gemmae from and the new growth. Plant is from - https://www.hccarnivorousplants.co.uk/collections/drosera-pygmy-species/products/drosera-scorpioides
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. If the leaves are turning like paper your ping is going into hibernation and will disappear into the compost and produce gemmae (baby pings) and re-imerge next spring.
    1 point
  38. Interesting! I am finding capensis, and some of the rosetted ones quite attractive.
    1 point
  39. My guess is another slackii, maybe from a root growing close to the surface , have to wait and see
    1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. Hi , Just some pictures of droseras in a Bog (Braña in Galician language) located in Northwestern Spain. Drosera Rotundifolia Drosera Intermedia
    1 point
  42. mobile, The quote bellow is posted with permission of the author because it was part of our personal conversation. " I have been in Fred's greenhouse many times back in 1980 - 1990 because he lived very close to me. I used to spend $25 that was a lot money for me back then and I was 24 years old so long time ago right. I never bought anyhing " Giant" from Fred simply because he never label or sold his Cephalotus clone as "Giant" neither Fred ever label this clone in his price list as "Giant". I still have his price list back in the 1980 and small plant cost $3, medium sized $5. Moreover Fred or anyone here in Australia has ever sold any Cephalotus labeled as "Giant". I have no idea who has added "Giant" of Fred's clone but it sounds like good sale point to me...."
    1 point
  43. Both clones are from Charles. You can compare the size by yourself. Hummer - left. Typical - right. So far the typical is winner...
    1 point
  44. Here is a photo that I posted last year. The plants have continued to grow and this year added a new layer of old flowers and leaves.
    1 point
  45. Here's the article (I'm not sure if it's teh final version though...) ----------------------------------------- Genlisea aurea St.Hil. Genlisea aurea St.Hil. (Lentibulariaceae) was discovered and described by the French botanist Auguste de Saint Hilaire in the early 19th century (St.Hil., 1833). This species is endemic to Brazil, where it is widespread on sandstone highlands from the states of Mato Grosso in the west to Bahia in the northeast to Santa Catarina in the southeast (Fromm-Trinta, 1979). This Genlisea species is a perennial herb typically found at altitudes varying from 550m to 2550m, growing in black humus-rich soil often mixed with sand among grasses in water-logged seepages which usually remain boggy even during the dry season. The compact rosettes are usually covered by a film of cold flowing water and I have even observed specimens growing beneath several centimenters of water in streams. Genlisea aurea is one of the largest species in the genus Genlisea (Taylor, 1991) and it has unique rosettes made up of dozens of almost linear leaves only about 2mm wide. Although the leaves are usually 5-50mm long, the rosettes are at maximum around 5cm in diameter because only the leaf tips are visible at soil level. The long white petioles are buried underground, arising from a beige stem up to about a centimeter thick and two or three centimeters long. Genlisea aurea can be found in flower year round, nonetheless it is not so easy to catch flowering specimens in the wild. This is rather strange, considering it is not at all a rare species and large populations are often common. Nevertheless, on a few occasions I have been blessed with the view of grassy fields covered with G.aurea’s large bright-yellow to golden-yellow blooms. What a view! The flower scapes of G.aurea are very robust and densely covered in both simple and glandular hairs, usually 10-30cm in height, but sometimes surpassing 40cm. Each inflorescence commonlly bears one to three open flowers at its apex, but may produce a total of eleven flowers (Fromm-Trinta, 1979). At the Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park (in northern Goiás state, central Brazil) grow the largest-flowered G.aurea I know, probably with the largest flowers in the genus Genlisea, measuring nearly 3cm in length and over 2cm in width. The flowers of this large form are a spectacularly rich golden-yellow in color and the lower lip is a wide apron – instead of more deeply trilobed as in other locations. The inverted ‘Y’-shaped passive traps of Genlisea apparently come in two types in most species. As drawn by Studnicka (1996), some traps are short and grow more or less horizontally beneath the soil surface, while others are longer and grow straight downwards. Unfortunately these traps are extremely difficult, if not nearly impossible, to collect whole in nature. They are very brittle and break exasperatingly easily when you try to wash off the soil around the plants. Fromm-Trinta (1979) recorded traps up to around 10cm in length for G.aurea, measured from herbarium specimens, but I believe this may be highly understimated. As for prey, G.aurea, G.margaretae, and G.violaceae (and thus possibly all Genlisea?) have been recently discovered to be specialized in the capture of protozoans (Barthlott et al., 1998). Among the Brazilian species of Genlisea, G.pygmaea seems to be the most closely related species to G.aurea. Both have inflorescences densely covered in simple and glandular hairs and the smaller forms of G.aurea are often very similar in flower shape, size and color to larger forms of G.pygmaea – a fact which has often confused me in the field! Other than the overall size of the plants, there are not many characteristics that one can use to separate these two species -- unless one has a microscope handy. Some useful tips in the field are that G.pygmaea usually grows in sandier soils, has fewer, shorter, wider, darker green leaves, flower scapes are a thinner and a darker green (almost black) in color, and the flowers are smaller and narrower. Other Brazilian Genlisea species that occur south of the Amazon Basin are easily distinguishable from G.aurea. G.repens and G.filiformis both have yellow flowers, but are much smaller in size. Furthermore, G.repens is the only Genlisea species which has elongated underground stems (like most Utricularia) and the small flowers are produced on thin glabrous flower scapes. G.filiformis has even tinier flowers with an obtuse-tipped spur borne on delicate inflorescences that are more or less covered in long glandular hairs only. Finally, G.guianensis, G.violacea, G.uncinata, and G.lobata have purplish to white flowers with an orangish-yellow to whitish patch at the base of the lower lip. Furthermore, the latter three taxa have pedicels that become pendulous when in fruit (versus erect) and the seed capsules split into two longitudinal valves (versus circumscissile) (Taylor, 1991). When not in flower, G.aurea is the easiest Genlisea species to recognize in Brazil, because of its large rosettes composed by dozens of narrow leaves covered by a thick layer of gelatinous transparent mucilage -- especially in shady habitats. This mucilage is also usually present to a lesser degree in G.pygmaea. After much brainstorming, I still do not know what the function of this mucilage is. Protection against fires seem unlikely since the G.aurea habitats are usually wet year round and thus free from the threat of fires – while G.pygmaea, being an annual, is usually dead by the time the dry season fires begin. Furthermore, the small rhizome of G.aurea is always safely protected from fires by its position a few centimeters below the soil surface. All I can think of is that this mucilage serves as a mechanical or chemical barrier against predation from snails or other small invertebrates. Whenever botanizing in Brazil I always like to herborize specimens of the CPs I find. But special care is needed to herborize G.aurea since the numerous delicate leaves become tightly glued to the newspaper used for herborization while the mucilage dries, making the rosettes nearly impossible to pry off afterwards. A technique I’ve developed to minimize this problem is to, before herborizing, press and wipe the G.aurea rosettes several times against my clothes. This helps remove most of the mucilage and decreases the number of leaves which remain glued to the paper in the end. And no damage is done to your clothes either, in case you’re wondering... I have never been able to keep G.aurea in cultivation for more than a year. In fact these picky plants would usually rot soon after being brought from the wild -- if not during the long trip from its natural habitat to my hometown São Paulo. Unfortunately the seeds of this species have so far proved nearly impossible to germinate in cultivation. I have never been able to germinate any myself and have only heard of a few success reports among friends around the world. The only mature G.aurea in cultivation I know of are growing at the Bonn Botanic Garden in Germany -- which I saw during the ’98 ICPS Conference. Unfortunately they’re cultivating the most unattractive of all G.aurea: a small form with pale-yellow flowers native to the Diamantina area of Minas Gerais state. References: 1.) Barthlott, W., Porembski, S., Fischer, E., and Gemmel, B. 1998. First Protozoa-Trapping Plant Found. Nature, 392: 447. 2.) Fromm-Trinta, E. 1979. Revisão das Espécies do Gênero Genlisea St.Hil. (Lentibulariaceae) das Regiões Sudeste e Sul do Brasil. Rodriguésia, Rio de Janeiro 31/49: 17-139. 3.) Saint-Hilaire, A. de. 1833. Voyage dans le District du Diamans du Brésil 2: 428-432. 4.) Studnicka, M. 1996. Several Ecophysiological observations in Genlisea. Carnivorous Plant Newsletter 25: 14-16. 5.) Taylor, P. 1991. The Genus Genlisea. Carnivorous Plant Newsletter 20: 20-26.
    1 point