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  1. 14 points
  2. 14 points
    Hello everyone, I treated myself to a new greenhouse over the Summer; the old one was so crowded it was becoming unmanageable. Here are some pictures of outside and inside:
  3. 12 points
    Hi to all my friends! Here urn cephalotus which is nice size and always gives me so much joy when I see this plant ... It measures a bit more than 8 cm, Céphalotus hummer's giant par dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr
  4. 11 points
    Hi all, It has been a while since I showed pictures of my set-up, so I have decided to launch this thread. Here we go. Heliamphora tatei {Cerro Huachamachare} : Heliamphora tatei {Cerro Marahuaka} : Heliamphora neblinae {Cerro Neblina} : Heliamphora glabra {Wei Tepui}. I have accidentally broken one growing point recently . I'm going to try my 'highest cutting' ever : Heliamphora purpurascens {Ptari Tepui} : Heliamphora elongata {Karaurin Tepui} : Heliamphora sarracenioides {Ptari Tepui} : Heliamphora minor var. pilosa {Auyan Tepui} : Heliamphora minor "Giant" {Aonda, AuyanTepui} : Heliamphora nutans {Yuruani Tepui} : Utricularia mannii : Utricularia jamesoniana : Deserving a special highlight, as it is currently blooming in my terrarium for the first time, Utricularia campbelliana {Wei Tepui} : More to come : Not really a highland plant, but getting well as I have never been truly successful with this species, Pinguicula planifolia : Cheers Vince
  5. 11 points
    Hello everyone, Too much sun and too little rain in this part of the UK, but here's a selection of this Summer's crop: N. robcantleyi: N. jamban N. rajah: N. peltata: N. burbidgeae: N. truncata x ephippiata: N. inermis: N. sibuyanensis (and N. sanguinea) N. truncata: N. spathulata x hamata: N. hamata: and N. lowii (just opened): Hope you enjoy! Wiser
  6. 11 points
    I just wanted to show a couple of pictures of this new pitcher of my Nepenthes villosa.
  7. 11 points
    Heliamphora exappendiculata 'amuri tepui' Heliamphora huberi Heliamphora nutans Heliamphora neblinae Céphalotus hummers giant Céphalotus german giant Céphalotus Dudley watt Céphalotus eden black Heliamphora nutans Cédric
  8. 11 points
    As requested by my friend Dimi, here's some pics of my Cephalotus wall:
  9. 10 points
    I’v been asked several times from many growers how I sow Cephs seeds. Well, the time has come and finally I found some time today in the greenhouse and sowed them. Anyway, here is some FAQ that I’v been asked and of course the answers: Usually I sow the Cephs seeds in early autumn ( as it is now) and they spend all the time from now up till early spring in the greenhouse with all my other plants. The temps vary from 13 - 26C during the autumn to 0C -10C during the winter and usually with the warming of the time 15C -25C ( early March) they start to germinate naturally. The potting mix that I use even I don’t know what is it with certain. All is mixed up by eye and I don’t follow proportions like 1:1 peat/perlite or 1:1:1 peat/perlite/sand etc. My mixes are from peat, perlite, sand, seramis, lava rock, pumice, coco peat, coco husk, peat fiber, coco fiber, chopped sphag, charcoal, orchid coir and stuff like that... or in other words everything that I have in my hand. However, even if u ask me in what soil are potted my adult Cephs - I can’t answer, because as I said above everything is mixed up according to the needs in certain time and whatever I find. On the other hand I never find Cephs too fussy about the potting mix and what ingredients are included in it. It is important to mention that the seeds that I have received from John Yates from Australia, however I usually got them in autumn ( autumn in Oz), but during the same time here is mid spring ( Europe), so our seasons have different time and here is already too late the seeds to be sown. So, once I got the seeds I keep them in my fridge (4-5C) from the spring up till the autumn ( like now) and then I sow them. During the last 4 - 5 years I tried and did several experiments to sow seeds in summer time here or late in the summer with the hope to get germination – all I ended up was 0% germination, so all my attempts to sow those Oz seeds failed. The conclusion is – they should be sown in the right time ( autumn) - at least that work for me. It really does not matter those seven months. Yes, this is the time they have spent in my fridge - from spring to autumn but that doesn’t mean anything neither cold stratification - it means just seeds storage and nothing else. The real cold stratification begins now – cold and damp strat. The seeds need cold and damp strat not just cold and dry as in my fridge… Anyway, the seeds that I get from my plants usually in mid summer I don’t keep them in my fridge up till the autumn. I keep them in dry t/c jar in my greenhouse at temps 35 - 45C during the summer and I sow them now with the other seeds from Oz. What I use – whatever container I have in my hand. I mentioned already about the soil. I use labels and rain water. What I do - I just sprinke the seeds on already wet soil in the autumn. Then gently I spray them with water so they can stick to the soil and that is all I do. The light is not a factor for high germination rate. I've had 98% germination in the darkest corner in my greenhouse under the benches where the light is 30% or less. Just bright position is enough. The high humidity is not a factor for high or good germination rate - I’v had high germination rate at 18 -20% humidity. I do not spray and do not use fungicides when I sow the seeds neither during the cold stratification nor for my seedlings or adult plants – just I have good ventilation with lots fresh air. I hope this helps and answers all questions that you guys asked me. Please note that what works for me and my conditions the same may not work for u and your conditions. Good luck to all ! Here is a tray with seeds from: Cephalotus Two Peoples Bay, Cephalotus Denbarker, Cephalotus Northcliffe, Cephalotus Gull Rock Road, Cephalotus Big Donk etc. This year I sowed seeds from different pure locations, location hybrids and my own crosses - all 23 types. Frankly this year is my last year when I sow Cephs seeds...
  10. 10 points
    hi everyone here are some photos of my collection here in scotland, hope you enjoy. photo of the greenhouse n.boschiana n.talangensis x ventricosa n.louisa n.linda n.spatulata x spectabilis just opened n.eymae & n.spathulata x ventricosa spathulata x platychilla n.burbidgeae x platychilla n.camanulata x robcantleyi n. maxima x trusmadiensis n.tenuis h.minor h.nutans n.boschiana x mira n.jamban n.mikei n.ventricosa n.glabrata n.? lots of little plants n.platychilla n.macfarleni n.? n.spathulata x glabrata http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/77344cc31810fc162316d69fc06b86 greenhouse shots
  11. 10 points
    Hello all, I have a small collection that I wanted to share with you. So I present you my few petiolaris Sundews: D. caduca D. petiolaris D. fulva D. paradoxa D. dil. pet. D. lanata D. kennealliy x darwinensis D. broomensis D. Falconeri i hope you appreciate, Nicolas.
  12. 10 points
    Er... am I the only one not understanding why some people are so aggressive about this topic? Do you guys have a black plant in your pocket and you wanted that name for yourself? Come one! Have a laugh! (and a beer, cheers!)
  13. 9 points
    Location Venus Fly Traps are temperate plants, not tropical as many people mistakenly assume, and so can be grown outdoors in the summer in most parts of the world including Europe. They require full sun and as much of it as possible, but in hotter regions of the world some shading and added humidity may be needed if it is particularly dry. In cooler parts of the world such as Northern Europe a greenhouse will improve growth, but is not essential. The more sun the Venus Fly Trap gets the better the colouration of the traps. If you are keeping your Fly Trap indoors then a South facing window is best. Remember that on particularly hot days, windows in full sun can be hot enough to burn your plants, even in Northern Europe . So care is needed to provide some ventilation at these times. Potting There are a number of suggested growing mediums into which you can pot your Venus Fly Trap. These include live Sphagnum moss, dead Sphagnum moss, peat moss, mixtures of Perlite or horticultural (silica) sand and peat moss from 30:70 to 50:50 respectively. They obviously all work, but it is difficult to say which works best without a scientifically conducted investigation. If you know of such an investigation I would be interested in a reference. Arguably the most popular medium appears to be a 30:70 mix of Perlite and peat moss, both available from local garden centres. However, you should choose a medium that is easily available to you. You should also consider peat substitutes as peat milling, the main method peat is harvested for horticultural use, is unsustainable, destroying the biological, archaeological and landscape value of peatland. There are too many alternatives to describe in detail here, but the link below should provide all the information you need. CPS article on peat substitutes for carnivorous plants If you are repotting a plant into a larger pot it is a straight forward process. Place some new growing medium into the bottom of the new pot and centre your plant (minus the old pot, but still surrounded by its original growing medium) in the new pot, so that the old surface is about level with the top of the new pot. You then fill in around the sides with new growing medium and soak in water from the base. The process is a little trickier if you are potting bare rooted plants or are splitting a plant that has divided. In these cases you are starting with a rhizome and roots that have none or very little growing medium around them. In this situation the leaves of the Venus Fly Trap have a tendency to bend downwards around the rhizome, making it difficult to plant without burying the leaves. The way I pot bare rooted plants is to first ensure the pot is deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. I loosely fill the pot with growing medium. Make a hole in it deep enough to take the roots and wide enough for the rhizome. Then the tricky part is to hold the plant gently at the rhizome in one hand and use the other hand to gather together the leaves and gently bend them back upwards to above the rhizome. Then holding them in that position release the hand holding the rhizome. Lower the plant, root first into the hole until the rhizome is just below the surface. You can use a pencil to push the roots down if they are particularly long. Carefully squeeze in the sides of the hole so the medium surrounds the rhizome and roots. Extra medium can then be added and pressed down the sides of the pot to replace that which was squeezed into the hole. Then spray the surface with water to flatten the medium wash the leaves and ensure the roots are wet. The pot can then be soaked in water from the bottom to ensure all the medium becomes wet. Tip - Medium has a tendency to gradually wash out of the bottom of the pot. To reduce this I use some perlite and plastic netting (the stuff they use to bag oranges in is ideal) cut to fit the bottom of the pot. Place the netting in the bottom of the pot first. I then put a centimetre or two (depending on the size of the pot) of Perlite on top of the netting and my growing medium on top of this. The Perlite reduces the amount of peat washed out and the netting stops the Perlite coming out. Another advantage of following this tip is that the layer of Perlite improves drainage and so prevents stagnation. It also improves aeration in the bottom of the pot, which is thought to encourage healthy root growth. Watering Venus Fly Traps live in nutrient poor soil and have evolved an elaborate mechanism for capturing and obtaining nutrients from small animals instead. As a result their roots are not adapted to normal levels of soil nutrients and can be damaged by them, resulting in the death of the plant over a period of time. Tap water, particularly hard water contains many nutrients as dissolved salts, and other chemicals such as chlorine, that are harmful to Venus Fly Traps. So it is widely accepted that watering with tap water is not a good idea. Most growers use rain water which is free and readily available (particularly in the UK ). More expensive alternatives include distilled water or water purified with a reverse osmosis unit. If you live near a hill or mountain you may be able to get away with stream water, so long as it is close to the source so as not to have picked up anything on its travels. I have done this when I have run out of rain water (very rare in UK ) without any ill effects. If you live in a soft water area you could risk using tap water, which has been left to stand for a few days, as a last resort. However, before doing this on a regular basis I would suggest experimenting first on a single plant over an extended period of time to see if there are any detrimental effects. One way to test how much salts are in your water would be to boil 4 litres in a metal pan until it has all disappeared, and look for a white residue in the bottom (salts). If it has no residue then it should be safe to use on your plants. However, you should still let it stand for a few days to allow volatile substances added during processing such as chlorine to disappear. Pots should be kept in deep trays which should contain about 3 to 5 cm of water in the bottom during the growing season. During the dormancy period you can empty the tray and just keep the growing medium damp. When watering, it is recommended to add the water to the tray not onto the growing medium. Ideal pot type Dormancy The Venus Fly Trap is a perennial plant, and in its natural environment it has a growing season during the summer and a period of dormancy during the winter. For the plant to stay healthy this dormancy needs to occur. How this is achieved will again depend on where you live. If you live in a climate similar to the Carolinas then you do not have to do anything as your Venus Fly Trap will naturally enter dormancy. If you live in a climate that experiences cold winters then your Venus Fly Trap will also enter dormancy naturally. However, if they are kept outdoors then they will need protection from frost. If they are in the ground then they should be covered in some kind of mulch to stop then from freezing. If they are in a pot then they should be put in a greenhouse/cold frame or somewhere such as a garage with a window where it is cool (less than 10 degrees Celsius) but is frost free. If your Venus Fly Trap is kept indoors on a window sill, then it may be too warm here to initiate the dormancy state. Move it to a cool but frost free part of the house with some light, such as a garage or unheated room. If you are in a tropical region then dormancy does not occur naturally as the photoperiod and temperature does not change significantly. In this case the plant has to be tricked into entering dormancy by reducing the amount of light the plant is getting to about 6 hours per day. This is best done gradually over a few weeks. At this point it is recommended that you put your Venus Fly Trap in a refrigerator (not the freezer section), either potted or in a plastic bag, bare rooted and wrapped in moist Sphagnum moss or something similar. Your Venus Fly Trap should undergo a dormancy period of about 4 months, usually November to February inclusive in the northern hemisphere. During this time the growing medium should be just damp but not wet. On bringing it out of dormancy it should be introduced to sunlight gradually so as not to damage the leaves. However, some people do not worry about this as the damaged leaves are quickly replaced by new leaves that adapt to the light as they grow. If you are putting your plant outdoors, be prepared to protect them early on if frost is forecast. Propagation When your Venus Fly Trap is mature it will naturally split, producing as many as 5 smaller plants. These can be separated and potted into individual pots, where each will grow into new adult plant in a much shorter time than a seed would. Take a mature plant that has a number of distinct growing points. Tip upside down and tap the pot and or squeeze the sides until the plant and soil drops out. Dont forget to use the other hand to catch the plant. If it had divided many times the root system should hold everything together. You can wash the soil off the plant if you wish, so that you can clearly see the divisions. The plants can then be gently prised apart. Normally the main thing to remember is not to break of the young plants until they have their own root systems, and are clearly separated from each other. There is an exception to this if you wish to force divisions from the plant. (see later) Pot them up as you would bare rooted plants. Plants produced in this way are natural clones of the parent plant, and are genetically identical to them and each other, possessing all the characteristics of the parent. There is a method to make divisions from a plant that has not yet divided, but this may be risky for the novice. A mature rhizome will elongate as new leaves are produced at the front and old leaves die at the back. Cut the rhizome into sections between where one leaf base meets the next leaf base, ideally ensuring that each section has one or more roots attached. However I have been successful with sections that didnt have any roots. Some of your sections particularly towards the older back part of the rhizome may not have any leaves on them. This doesnt matter as provided they are kept moist and do not get infected they will eventually produce leaves, and also roots if they too are absent. Pot these sections up as you would bare rooted plants. Tip - To reduce infection steralize your blade in a flame before use. Also plant sections into live sphagnum moss instead of peat, as it has natural antiseptic properties. Not really necessary with sections with leaves and roots but may improve the success rate of sections without leaves and roots, that take longer to establish. Another way to get clones from your parent plant it to take leaf ‘pullings'. It is recommended that you take leaf ‘pullings' from healthy adult plants, as an unhealthy or young plant may not take the shock. Take a healthy plant and select a leaf on the outside of the rhizome. Gently pull it downwards and out like peeling a banana. Ensure that some white rhizome tissue is at the base. This tissue contains the undifferentiated cells that are capable of dividing to form new plants. Cells from other parts of the leaf have become specialised to carry out a particular function for the plant such as water transport, photosynthesis, protective epidermal layer etc and cannot change back. The trap is then cut or pinched off and discarded. The leaf is laid flat on the surface of some live sphagnum moss with the white end slightly buried. The ‘pulling' should be kept in full sun, and warmth. The moss will create a humid atmosphere around the 'pulling' and protect against microbial attack. Leaf pullings can also be propagated in normal growing medium, and the success rate can be increased by keeping in a humid atmosphere of a terrarium or clear plastic bag. However, you must be careful not to ‘cook' your ‘pulling' by excess heat, that can often result from having plants in terrariums or plastic bags on hot days, particularly in South facing windows. Some growers have had success at propagating Venus Fly Traps simply by snipping of the flower stalks as they grow and planting them upright in the growing medium to a depth of about a centimetre. This is worth trying even if you are a beginner, as your mature Venus Fly Traps will usually start growing a flower stalk each spring, and most growers cut these off anyway as they take a lot of resources from the plant which would otherwise be used to make traps. So you have nothing to loose, unless you really want the flowers to develop for seeds. A more advanced method of producing large amounts of identical Venus Fly Traps relatively quickly is by tissue culture. But this technique is advanced, and beyond the scope of this guide. However, there are many articles on the web about this subject. If you are interested in developing new varieties of Venus Fly Traps, the easiest way to achieve this is by basically letting nature take its course, and allowing flowers to develop on your plants. Pollination of the flowers is the sexual form of reproduction in plants, producing seeds that will grow into new plants with characteristics of both parents and so increasing variation. You can manipulate this process by crossing the plants that you want, in the hope that seeds are produced that will result in plants with characteristics that are highly desirable. For example you may have a red Venus Fly Trap and a Venus Fly Trap with an interesting shaped trap. You may wish to cross these two plants to try and get a plant that is red and has the interesting shaped traps. Warning, this can be a long and laborious process and you may not live long enough to see results. People sometimes collect from wild populations as they are bigger, and so the chances of something interesting arising from cross pollination are increased. Please do not collect from the wild as it is either illegal or carefully regulated.
  14. 9 points
    I have a love of science and as a result have been testing multiple methods of leaf pullings on Dionaea for some time now, this is a log of my testing method, results and conclusions. Introduction: I'm a student so cutting costs is one of my top priorities when taking cuttings, as a result all of my experiment was preformed using items that can be found in the common household(excluding a full spectrum CFL and a VFT:-P) as a result no chemical additives were used eg. Rooting hormones, anti-fungal powders .etc. All experiments were preformed over a three month period During said period progress was recorded at 1 month intervals Each factor/method was preformed with three leaves Once the traps turned fully black (in all methods) they were removed to prevent fungal growth Taking pullings: Pullings were taken early February from a plant which was bought fresh fresh out of dormancy Pullings were taken by un-potting the VFT and "pulling" downwards on the leaves so a section of the rhizome came away each time All pullings were taken from the same two plants All chosen leaves were of the same size and health Procedure: Method 1: Pullings placed on Peat Moss The leaf Pullings were placed in dents on the surface of a pot of boiled peat moss(dent used to make the most possible surface area of the underside of the leaves be in contact with the peat moss, boiled in an attempt to kill off fungus spores and bacteria) The pots were placed in a tray of Rainwater approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each pot was covered in cling film Method 2: Pullings placed in Long fibre Sphagnum (LFS) The leaf Pullings were placed in on the surface of the boiled LFS with as much of the underside of the leaves in contact with the LFS as possible The pots were placed in a tray of Rainwater approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each pot was covered in cling film Method 3: Pullings placed submerged in Rainwater The leaf pullings were placed in glasses of boiled(then cooled) rainwater (boiled in this case in an attempt to kill bacteria and algal spores) The glasses were placed approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each glass was covered with cling film Results: Method 1: Pullings placed on Peat Moss This method resulted in the shortest amount of time before fungal growth was seen(at the 1 month interval) No successful strikes were seen before all pots were consumed by fungus(possibly due to cling film causing stagnant air which sped up spore germination) Method abandoned at 2 month mark when all leaves were noted to be dead Not a method I've had "lots" of success with in the past as well Method 2: Pullings placed in Long fibre Sphagnum (LFS) Method shows promise as 2/3 had strikes Fungal growth occurred only after 2 month mark Between month 2 and 3 two leaves were killed by fungus(one with a strike and one without) By the end of month 3 the remaining leaf had formed a plantlet Method 3: Pullings placed submerged in Rainwater By far most successful No maintenance required (ie. no topping up water) apart from removing dead traps %100 strike rate No fungus seen(due to submersion) Small amount of algae seen during month 1 but it was left alone Conclusion: After preforming all three variations of leaf pulling I found the most successful to be the technique of placing pullings in rainwater. The LFS strike that did survive had grown larger then all of the plantlets from the Submerged method, but a conclusion on size of plantlet can not be drawn as this could be an isolated case. From my own opinion the submersion method is also the easiest, no potting or watering, just stick it in a glass of boiled and cooled rainwater(not to mention it's the cheapest) Method of acclimatising Submerged plants to emmersed(yes it's a real word) state After plantlet has reached approx 1cm in diameter remove it from the glass and place it on LFS or peat (very wet) in a pot with cling film over the top Over the course of a 2-3 weeks pop holes in the cling film At the end of the three weeks you have air-hardy little plantlets After Notes: Two weeks on from the end of the experiment all 4 of the successful strikes have formed plantlets with small traps, the ones from the submersion technique seemed to take a week off of growing to acclimatise. I would like to see how long one on the plantlets could be left in water before being acclimatised as growth was much faster pre acclimatisation, buts that's a whole other experiment for a different time. I hope my long rambling report can help someone in some way eventually. - Niall FM
  15. 9 points
  16. 9 points
    If that plant is black I suggest you get your eyes tested . It's red and nothing else .
  17. 9 points
    Seul le singe imite l'Homme.
  18. 8 points
    hi I have made a few new picture of tuberous drosera traps and i want to share them with you Drosera Salina Drosera aff Pallida Drosera Gigantea Drosera Calycina Drosera Modesta Drosera Zygzagia by
  19. 8 points
    Hi, it's time to wake up! Drosera zoneria large form Drosera magna Drosera colina Drosera tubaestylus Drosera heterophylla Drosera lowriei, Holt Hope you enjoy them. Best regards Lutz
  20. 8 points
    This post is from both myself (GazCez) and Ady (Carnivine). Today Ady took the very brave decision to ring myself to rectify what had become an unpleasant slanging match on this Forum. We have settled things in an adult and productive way hence this Forum posting. I am very glad he rang and if we encounter one another on our carnivorous travels we have agreed to shake hands and put things behind us. Certain issues have arisen during the debacle apart from the obvious pythium related tit for tat/ mud slinging - unpleasantness from other Forum members. As mediator in this dispute I do not want anyone to persecute or penalise either of us (and particularly Ady) when this matter is between us and now resolved - no matter how public I made the matter. I hope that sellers and buyers will continue to support us both and do not let this matter cloud their judgement. Bullying from other Forum members is also unacceptable and should not be directed at either party as has been the case in the past few days. We have come to an adult resolution about the issue and have come to the conclusion that we can only learn from the past few days. As far as the pythium subject matter is concerned we are both mightily sick of it and wish that it had never been mentioned. After discussion together we have no real idea as to what actually occurred. Short of scientific tests at vast expense we wish to move on. Having said that, pythium is a worthwhile discussion point on this Forum in a decent, civilised and non judgemental manner. Thank you for all of your patience during my meltdown and our subsequent muck slinging match.
  21. 8 points
    This Hummer's giant pitcher has reached its full potential and stands at 10.1cm or 4 inches. Alright, now in return, I would like to see examples of other cephalotus giant pitchers. I know there are many growers here with decades of growing experience, and surely I can not be the first to cultivate a 10cm cephalotus pitcher. I know there are many individuals such as myself, who would not publicly show their plants, and neither would I, if it were not for the request from a dear friend.
  22. 8 points
    Cheers Corky :) Wow, i can't believe we've had so many weeks of hot sunny weather, hence i've been outside working nonstop and therefore not taking any photos. So, time for an update ! At the start of this thread i said that not only was this going to be my first ever greenhouse, but i'd be diving feet first into making it a (hopefully) ideal intermediate/highland nepenthes enviroment at the same time, with practically zero experience, googling and learning about each step as i decided what needed to be done next.. And so obviously it would be a big learning curve for me and also experimental, with mistakes made and lessons learnt along the way. First mistake, i kind of severely underestimated the average daily light levels in the Northwest of England, and so the shade netting from the front of the greenhouse and the double doors, plus the sunny side of the roof, has been removed to lift the gloom. And then a few weeks later, this bloody heatwave hits and we have to walk round with sunglasses on to avoid the glare ! So really, the shade netting could do with going back on the doors and roof as long as this sun keeps shining. I need to come up with some kind of velcro system so the shade netting can easily be removed or replaced on the doors when the weather gets silly. Plus it was a neater job around the edges when it was covering the messy cuts i made to the bubble wrap underneath. All this because i realised the greenhouse is facing south east not south. No signs of any plants suffering heat stroke yet, so maybe the extra shade netting was overkill in the first place. Second mistake, siting a greenhouse under the next door neighbour's sycamore tree is a very very bad idea if you intend running guttering to harvest rainwater during spring and early summer. The sheer amount of dead flower heads that fall from this tree resembles a locust plague of biblical proportions. The water in the four barrels was bright yellow, caused terrible floating scum, stunk like hell, and made the water useless at over 260 TDS. And on top of that, i had the equivalent of 100% shade netting on the roof. Then the guttering got packed solid and overflowed so i decided it all had to come off. Well, i didn't know it was a sycamore tree when i started the ground clearance, it was February i think and i wasn't paying much attention to the surrounding trees. And a matter of weeks after i removed the guttering, the neighbours hack 50% of the branches off the sycamore, which not only means far less flowerheads next Spring, but also more incoming light ! We're planning now to use the guttering on our 12x10 shiplap timber shed and hook a further water butt up to it for general garden watering, it was expensive and can't be allowed to go to waste. Anyway, i'll talk you through some update photos..... I've fitted two Vortice Vario 150AR fans in the greenhouse, controlled by a thermostat. When the orchid autovents open at around 25c, the two fans come on too. It was hard work trying to purchase a branded affordable fan in the UK that also offered good moisture protection plus could be hardwired in reverse. And it HAD to be no bigger than 6 inch (9 inch casing diameter) to fit in the glazing above the double doors. I actually had a good bargain, and found too of these fans on fleabay, brand new with instructions but unboxed, by two different sellers, a matter of weeks apart. I think i saved between £150 and £200. So the first two photos show the exhaust fan, mounted as high as possible for maximum heat extraction. And here's the intake fan, which comes on at the same time as the exhaust fan. I decided to mount it low in the back corner of the greenhouse, as this is by far the coolest outside part of the greenhouse as it's in permanent shade all day. The concrete fence panels in close proximity also help keep the air surprisingly cool and damp here. The only problem i've found, is during heavy rain, the fan gets very dirty on the outside from rain splashback off the pavers. The angle of this splashback just happens to go straight up through the downward angled vents of the fan, allowing dirty muddy water to build up on the inside of the fan. It's actually quite clean inside after two months use, and not as bad a sounding problem as i make out, but i see a potential build up happening and i'd like to make things as maintenance free as possible. I just need to devise some kind of open cover for the front, maybe cut a 2ft square of 4mm polycarb and screw the bottom two corners onto the side face of the concrete block, bending it slightly and screwing the top two corners into the uprights of the greenhouse. This will create a gap of about 3 inches in front of the fan, and the sides will be open of course. What do you think ? It's the simplest solution i can think of that would do the trick i reckon. And it will be out of sight anyway. I've also fitted a 4ft IP65 T8 housing. I opted for a 4100k daylight 20w LED tube instead of the old traditional 36w fluorescent tube, for the obvious savings on electricity, plus the better quality light. Installing a LED tube in a standard T8 housing involves snipping wires and bypassing the ballast as it's no longer needed and the circuit wiring to the LED is different anyway. A simple job and not as scary as i first thought. The starter (if fitted) also needs to be removed. I purchased a Ledlam tube which has a 140 degrees projected angle of light, some cheaper LED's may only have an angle of 120 degrees, i've learnt. Next is a general view of the inside front of the greenhouse. You can see where the shade netting has been removed from the front panels, doors, and right upper roof panels. This has let in much more light during our more common gloomy days. Unfortunately, the ugly rough cutting i did of the bubble wrapping is now exposed on the doors. You'll also notice that the right side of the greenhouse still homes some of my partners plants and flower/veg seedlings and i'm perfectly happy with that while the space is unused, as long as her plants are happy with the high humidity needed for my conditions. The long term plan is for this to be a nephouse only with plants climbing both sides, and so i think i will need to shade net that side of the greenhouse exactly the same, from floor up to the top of the lower roof panels, leaving the upper panels unshaded (as i did a few weeks back) and remove the shade netting from the currently covered upper roof panels of the current side, opening up the entire roof space instead for light. If you understand what i mean. I'm not sure the light coming in then through the roof panels alone will be enough during the darkest depths of winter, but then again, the sun is way too low on the horizon for our garden at that time of year. That's the plan anyway, what do you reckon ? This is the other end where all the exciting (but very expensive) stuff is going on. Hence it's slow going. The IP65 consumer unit is in and live, but not everything you see mounted on the back board is connected up yet, where other items are still needed. Some things are running on temporary timers from the extension reel plugged in the house, like the temporary indoor 1.8kw heater that helped get the chilly greenhouse day temps of 16c up to around 19 or 20c back in April / early May. It's an eco model kinda fan with a mini thermostat that slips it into economy mode to top the temperature up slightly when needed. Or something. This heater is on a timer to stop it operating over night. Don't panic, it's well sheltered under the potting bench from the misting system and the 12 inch Hydor Typhoon does a great job from keeping any wetness away from everything on the back board, even the IP rated stuff. Bugger, could have saved a fortune there lol ! This fan is intended for 24 hour air circulation run through a timer with alternating 15 minute on/off operations constantly over 24 hours.This is my starting experiment point anyway. However, the fan is currently running constantly 24 hours plugged directly into the extension reel while i await purchasing another expensive IP timer that won't get wet. Oh well, better safe than sorry, eh? The potting bench can get a little bit wet in places, but that has been covered with a sheet of stainless steel donated by a metal fabricator mate i've acquired since moving up here. And here's a close up of the automation gadgetry so far, fused spurs everywhere ! (my sparky mate, also recently acquired, likes to play on the safe side. To my expense lol). The solenoid that operates the misting system is controlled by a very expensive waterproof timer, that operates............ just one 15 minute cycle in a 24 hour period, currently at 9pm at night. The price of dedicated automation. Originally, i envisioned this timer having many cycles a day, helping cool during the day and raising humidity. Then the cost would have been justified. But once the solenoid was made live and i seen how much of a soaking my neps got from my cheap misting nozzles (as warned to me by Dave Evans many weeks back, which can potentially be very bad for rot). I paniced at first, but then read about the watering/fertiliser methods of the guy over at nepenthesaroundthehouse.com and how his nepenthes increased in leaf growth and pitcher size when he reduced watering to a single drenching with a hosepipe each evening (sorry i don't know your name, if anyone can let me know, please do). Since i adopted this guys system, i too have also noticed an increase in leaf and pitcher size. But that could also be partly down to me giving them all their first caffeine fix adminstered a month or so ago, plus the gradually improving conditions as controllers get added. Below the misting timer and solenoid is the cooling thermostat that controls the exhaust and intake fans. It has a 5 metre sensor probe which i've run into the trunking, through the black conduit top right, and it breaks out half way along the greenhouse, quite low to where the nepenthes are sitting. Under the cooling thermostat is where the heating thermostat will go once purchased. I've opted to go with Simply Control again and purchase their Tropical Thermostat, a dual box affair featuring a thermostat and a seperate timer, which controls the 10c night time temperate drop at night. Nice bit of kit, but again very expensive (for me, currently). And then a very expensive heater needs to be bought before winter sets in. It's a race against time on a low income, but i hope it's going to be so worth it in the end Whilst the greenhouse can't progress as fast as i'd like due to cashflow limitations, it does give me plenty of time inbetween update phases to get work done on the garden, and in roughly six months, it's gone from this...... to this...... So that's basically everything covered that's happened since i updated last back in mid May. Your thoughts and comments on the nephouse are always welcome. Thanks for reading.
  23. 8 points
    Dave, this person is a US grower of high repute, over the last few years he has come up with some outstanding Dionaea, any VFT collector that refused to buy from him simply because of a tentative name of one plant would be a fool. Going back to the subject of plant names ,I have a very nice VFT called "Rabbit Teeth" ,however it eats flies not carrots ,and doesn't say "Hey, what's up Doc" nevertheless I don't go off on a rant about it.
  24. 8 points
    Sorry but in my opinion I dont think this is dark enough to be anything special. Ive had traps this dark on my red plants, and thats in the cloudy uk
  25. 8 points
    Hello, i have not shown true species for a longer time now, so here are a few Tepui Drosera. D. meristocaulis ´north west plateaus of Cerro Neblina, border Brazil/Venezuela´ opened it´s flower for the first time nearly completely, in most cases it does not open it´s flowers at all so selfing was always difficult and nearly not possible. after selfing D. hirticalyx ´Kukenan´ a group of plants D. roraimae ´Gran Sabana, SE Bolívar,Venezuela´ "red plants" (not really a Tepui plant, but....) four open flowers at the same time D. roraimae ´Cerro Adaua, Estado Bolivar, Venezuela´ D. roraimae ´Kukenan Tepui, Venezuela´ D. esmeraldae ´Cerro Duida, Venezuela´ D. kaieteurensis ´Chimanta Tepui´ D. felix ´Tuku Maruku, Gran Sabana´ (also not a Tepui plant but....) plants with full seed capsule D. solaris ´Mt. Yakontipu, Pakaraima Mountains, Guyana´ D. arenicola ´Cerro Duida, Venezuela´ D. spec. ´Duida´ (probably D. yutajensis) tried often to flower in the past but the flower stalks stopped with their development, somehow they dried out. I hope you like them. Best regards, Dani