Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2011 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) Heliamphora ciliata H. Midoxa and H. nutans growing epiphytically
  2. 14 points
    Hello everyone; a few pictures of some of this Summer's crop: N. burbidgeae N. flava N. platychila N. pitopangii N. inermis N. sibuyanensis - upper and lower N. macrophylla (basal growth) N. jamban and a group photo Wiser
  3. 14 points
  4. 14 points
    Hello everyone, I treated myself to a new greenhouse over the Summer; the old one was so crowded it was becoming unmanageable. Here are some pictures of outside and inside:
  5. 13 points
    The last time I got in to the peat argument here, I was pilloried for it. As a flower show exhibitor I need to be well versed in this argument, especially when faced with a representative of the metropolitan let's drive a Prius and crap in the woods club; those who feel that as long as nothing falls within their own tunnel vision, then they'll save the planet by driving an electric car. Start asking where the electricity comes from, and you can see the tell-tale beads of sweat breaking out across their Nivea softened brows. I don't believe the sale of peat will end. Let's put things into perspective. Only a couple of percent of peat extracted is used in horticulture, nearly all of it is burnt in power stations (Ireland, Russia, China, Finland, Argentina etc.) Hold the line...Mr Sanctimonious who was looking down his nose at me for using peat only a few seconds ago, looks concerned. They didn't mention peat fired power stations in The Guardian? No, but he'll fight his corner anyway, he knows he's right, he always is, Cressida told him so. 'They don't burn peat' he says with a shake of his head and a knowing smile, though I can see a flicker of doubt on the next wave that threatens to wash him out to deeper waters. 'Are you carnivorous, like my friends here?' I ask, waving nonchalantly towards the botanical friends on my display. He looks confused at the Sarracenia, then back to me. 'No, why?' 'Well, I-I just wondered what you ate, and guessed vegetables were off the menu.' 'What the hell's that got to do with it?' he asks. Cressida touches his arm, perhaps for re-assurance that he has support against this troglodyte, perhaps to brush away a speck of gluten free muesli stuck like a barnacle to his arm. I go on. 'Well, as most of the peat used in UK horticulture goes into peat plugs for vegetable production, I assumed you boycotted eating vegetables.' That's got him, Cressida's now pulling at the arm. Before I have the chance to ask what car he drives, the amount of residual waste in his bin every two weeks which is sent to landfill, or indeed (as has been mentioned here), if he checks the ingredients of his weekly Waitrose shop for the presence of palm oil, he's gone, whisked away for a skinny organic lactose free latte to recover. I don't even get the chance to tell him to make sure he recycles the cup afterwards. My point is, peat is renewable, BUT before you choke on your tea, at such a pace as it should be considered finite. There are far, far, far bigger consumers of the stuff, and although we can all start small, the bigger picture is far more frightening. The palm oil issue being one of them. I argued this at one of our council meetings with a green party member. He wanted us to force our contractor to use a hot foam weed killer. Glastonbury town council had purchased one, and he was singing its praises as it uses no chemicals. It also doesn't work as it only kills the top growth, but that's another matter. When I asked what the foam was produced from, he replied 'it's just palm oil'. Well, there can't be too many nasty wicked members from my team, who could say they'd beaten a green at their own game. Suffice to say, we kicked the idea into the long grass. Whilst I agree that if we all club together we can achieve great things, when we're talking about a relatively tiny group of hobbyists, even if we all went peat free, it would I'm afraid achieve nothing. Unless we can lobby governments to close, rather than open peat fired power stations, nothing will change, and even if they did, what will they use instead, coal? Now that's another issue altogether. I endorse growers who want to go peat free, and good luck to them, but feel it's more a case of feeling good about ones actions, rather than making any tangible difference. Nigel HC
  6. 13 points
    Hello everyone, A few pictures of pitchers that have developed over the winter months: N. macrophylla N. edwardsiana: N. peltata N. lowii & N. xtrusmadiensis N. jacquelineae N. spectabilis N. platychila N. mikei N. ephippiata Looking forward to the Spring!! Wiser
  7. 12 points
    Hi we were very pleased to get a silver gilt medal at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show this year. Here is our display. Both Nigel Hewitt-Cooper and Matthew Soper received golds! cheers Dennis
  8. 12 points
    A few days ago it came to our attention that a CPUK member had stated they had a Sarracenia cultivar S. ‘Waccamaw’ (which happens to be a crossing between two S. flava var atropurpurea plants) illegally imported into Europe. This member was subsequently banned from CPUK. The reason for the ban was two-fold. Firstly, no Phytosanitary Certificate was obtained. Apart from being a legal requirement, these inspections are needed for international trading to prevent the spread of pests and diseases (such as the Sarracenia rhizome boring pest). Secondly, all Sarracenia species are protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), with S. flava (and this was a flava) being listed under Appendix II. No export and import permits were obtained for this plant. The member admitted to it being smuggled in the mail. As a few members requested to be placed on a waiting list for this plant at the time, it is worth pointing out that it is not just the one plant that may be seized by the authorities and destroyed. The whole collection in which the plant resides can be seized, as can collections of people who have received a illegally traded piece. Please take a moment to think about that. Was it really worth that risk? CPUK has always taken a strong stance against illegal trading, whether a plant was removed from the wild or was reproduced by seed. The Carnivorous Plant Society has conservation at it’s very heart, and this also extends to hoping we can protect our territories from foreign pests and diseases. Let us all try to not give our hobby a bad name.
  9. 12 points
    African beauties :) Drosera cuneifolia {Table Mountain, RSA} Drosera cuneifolia {Silvermine Nature Reserve, RSA} Drosera venusta {George, Oudtshoorn, RSA} Drosera slackii Drosera rubrifolia A true Drosera burkeana {Zambia} Drosera capensis {Bain’s Kloof Pass, RSA} Drosera collinsiae {Mbuluzi River, Swaziland} Drosera madagascariensis American beauties :) Drosera graomogolensis Drosera spiralis {Estrada para Macacos (1.288 m), Diamantina, Minas Gerais, Brasil} Drosera tomentosa var. glabrata {Serra do Caraça, Minas Gerais, Brazil} Drosera tomentosa var. glabrata {Serra da Canastra, Delfinópolis, Minas Gerais, Brazil} Drosera sessilifolia {Chapada dos Guimarães, Brasil} Australian beauties :) Drosera burmannii {Hann River, Kimberley, Australia} (Giant Red Form) Drosera platystigma Drosera scorpioides Drosera hamiltonii Drosera adelae
  10. 12 points
    Thanks, Scotcarnivorousplants - When I have several plants of the same species, the plants growing in different conditions, not only light, some plants grow only in the greenhouse, and some only under artificial lighting (fluorescent Silvania Grolux). The differences in the pictures may result that photos were taken in different lighting conditions - sun or high pressure sodium lamps - which in the evening light to plants Now some highland Nepenthes (the day max 21, the night 15/16). Nepenthes spectabilis (Gunung Sibuatan, Sumatra) Nepenthes spathulata Nepenthes talangensis Nepenthes sibuyanensis x aristolochioides Nepenthes vogelii Nepenthes robcantleyi Nepenthes tentaculata Nepenthes ramispina (Peninsular Malaysia) Nepenthes platychila Nepenthes petiolata Nepenthes lowii Trusmadi Nepenthes jamban Nepenthes jacquelineae Nepenthes hamata
  11. 12 points
    Hi to all my friends! Here urn cephalotus which is nice size and always gives me so much joy when I see this plant ... It measures a bit more than 8 cm, Céphalotus hummer's giant par dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr
  12. 11 points
    A few of my Nepenthes Lowland conditions in the greenhouse (humidity> 90%, day 25/26, the night 21/20) Baskets with Nepentes Nepenthes burbidgeae x platychila Nepenthes fusca Nepenthes Miranda
  13. 11 points
    Hey there, I thought it was time for me to introduce in this thread my new terrarium. It will be more 'techy' than 'planty', so if you are expecting mainly pictures of plants here, well, you'll be pretty disappointed. I started over 6 months ago with this new project, as I had to stop growing carnivorous plants and put away my former terrarium. I hope it will meet the same success as its elder brother. The previous one was already running with a RPi, but its use wasn't maxed out. Here we go, the result as it was a few weeks ago: Basically, it's a small terrarium (65x55x65) dedicated to grow highland carnivorous plants, but also, to answer my needs as a grower: autonomous, tailored set up with remote monitoring. Handy, transportable by one person, and good-looking (enough). Almost bearable in a living room, i.e, not giving away too quickly a vibe of 'eccentricity'. But behind the scene, it's a different kettle of fish. I bought the glass panes, and started to drill them. The holes will be used for aquarium tubing: Practising: Then starting with actual panes: Watering the area of interest: Then: The silicone used to joint the terrarium together: A bit messy: Top pane set up. I stuck the first rail for sliding panes. Wait of 24h. Then final jointing and installation of the through-tank connectors. 48h wait, and leak test : I built a small tank made of 2 cm styrofoam to contribute to insulate the cooled water from the outside of the terrarium. The aim was to prevent cold losses and reduce outside condensation on the window: Second profile rail drying: As a side note, the bottom profile rail is smaller than the top one, allowing easy removal of the sliding panes : Slicing off a gutter, so to make support for gratings : To water the plant wall, I set up a pierce hose on top of it: Stuck hose: Cheeky bubble: Same goes with the tree fern panels: I made a tank for the fogging system, as well as two shelves (one for the tank, one for the watercooling radiator): The shelves: Final test: Now, about the lighting system. In short, I wanted LEDs, as they have more opportunities for playing around. They can be dimmed and can have precise wavelengths. So it's possible to roughly mimic sunrise/sunset. I used several small ones instead of few big ones because I wanted passive cooling (silent installation), and not being forced to have fans running on top of big LEDs to have them cooled down. I bought MK-R LEDs and no-name ones (blue: 440-445, 430-435nm and red: 660nm), all powered around 4W. The MK-R as I received them: The first step is to mount the MK-R on their individual PCB: I spread solder paste on the PCB: I did reflow soldering, by making solder paste melt between the PCB and the LED. Information about the specifications on how to carry out this process can be found on the MK-R datasheet: Useful thermometer (there wasn't any LED on the pan at the time I took this picture): Then, I drilled and mounted some heatsinks together: I added some tin to make the connecting easy: Thermal paste and other tools: The beginning: (there was actually a mistake in this wiring at the time of the picture) Finally: White: Yellow: Red: Blue: Warm effect (morning): Winter-is-coming effect: A bit of an overkill, but in case, some fans to help the heatsinks dissipate the heat: How the lighting system is fixed. Inspired from aquarium hobby: Funny trick - how to adjust the height of the lighting system: The fusebox, when I was still tinkering with the RPi: The cooling system (below 13°C at night and no higher than 25°C during the day): The cooling unit: The connectors: The watercooling radiator: The heating system is based on a heating pad and a fan (that I also use for the fogging system, and all day long to promote air circulation): The fogging system, with classic mist makers: The watering system is composed of 4 nozzles: And a pump: And for the geeky part, the Raspberry Pi to rule them all. This is the micro-controller (small computer) which manages all the devices related to the terrarium. Good news, you can do almost everything you want. Bad news, the RPi won't program itself: I connected several sensors and other hardware resources to it. To have something neat, I designed a printed circuit board (PCB). Yep, the schematic is quite messy: Rendering this after milling (a friend of mine milled it for me): I soaked it into liquid tin: Then, components' supports: Tropicoat coating: In the end, more or less: A webcam on top of the terrarium: Which gives this kind of snapshot (I consider doing time-lapse, as soon as I don't have plastic bags on top of some plants. I removed them for the sake of the pictures): How to command the devices ? Using relays. I had some that I very recently replaced with wireless (radio/433 Mhz) ones. The emitter: The relay: A receiver (to copy radio signals, or for instance, coupled with a remote controller to switch off the terrarium): Family picture: And not-so-useful remote controllers, as everything is managed by the RPi. They bypass the RPi (as they send the same signals as the RPi do), so, I can turn on/off a device without having to use the RPi, and without tampering with the rules I set up. I just have to ensure that I put the device back in its original state after I'm done operating it. About coding, I had a first version which was working but far from being optimised. The crucial upgrade was made possible thanks to Clément Lefranc, who gave me his entire code. He is the one who takes the credit. Thanks to his gesture, I could start from a working base that I adapted to my own needs. As you might be assuming, I have developed a website to better introduce the terrarium. Almost finished with it, just left with a few things to correct. It will be more convenient to look up for any information related to the terrarium, as I'm afraid there are too many pictures on this topic. But in case of major update, I'll make sure to put the info into this topic as well, so that the gist is always presented here. That was all for the initial investment. Then, what is interesting is to watch how the plants will react to all this attention. Especially in the long run, as, when it comes to growing, that is the only thing which matters in my opinion. And the more it is complex, the more it's likely to break down somewhere. But I'll keep you updated. At least, the start is successfully completed: believe me, it could have not been so. I hope it might give ideas to some of you. Vince P.S: I still can't get my hand on the 'preview button'. Has it totally disappeared? Is there any way to have it back?
  14. 11 points
    Nameless lake near Kościerzyna (Pomerania region) Menyanthes trifoliata Comarum palustre Drosera rotundifolia Drosera angica D. x obovata
  15. 11 points
    Hi all, It has been a while since I showed pictures of my set-up, so I have decided to launch this thread. Here we go. Heliamphora tatei {Cerro Huachamachare} : Heliamphora tatei {Cerro Marahuaka} : Heliamphora neblinae {Cerro Neblina} : Heliamphora glabra {Wei Tepui}. I have accidentally broken one growing point recently . I'm going to try my 'highest cutting' ever : Heliamphora purpurascens {Ptari Tepui} : Heliamphora elongata {Karaurin Tepui} : Heliamphora sarracenioides {Ptari Tepui} : Heliamphora minor var. pilosa {Auyan Tepui} : Heliamphora minor "Giant" {Aonda, AuyanTepui} : Heliamphora nutans {Yuruani Tepui} : Utricularia mannii : Utricularia jamesoniana : Deserving a special highlight, as it is currently blooming in my terrarium for the first time, Utricularia campbelliana {Wei Tepui} : More to come : Not really a highland plant, but getting well as I have never been truly successful with this species, Pinguicula planifolia : Cheers Vince
  16. 11 points
    Hello everyone, Too much sun and too little rain in this part of the UK, but here's a selection of this Summer's crop: N. robcantleyi: N. jamban N. rajah: N. peltata: N. burbidgeae: N. truncata x ephippiata: N. inermis: N. sibuyanensis (and N. sanguinea) N. truncata: N. spathulata x hamata: N. hamata: and N. lowii (just opened): Hope you enjoy! Wiser
  17. 11 points
    I just wanted to show a couple of pictures of this new pitcher of my Nepenthes villosa.
  18. 11 points
    Heliamphora exappendiculata 'amuri tepui' Heliamphora huberi Heliamphora nutans Heliamphora neblinae Céphalotus hummers giant Céphalotus german giant Céphalotus Dudley watt Céphalotus eden black Heliamphora nutans Cédric
  19. 11 points
    As requested by my friend Dimi, here's some pics of my Cephalotus wall:
  20. 10 points
    Dennis, thank you for taking the time to explain this at length to all the members on here. I have known you and Phil for many years and trust you both without question. The new(old) or ex chair person or woman ,i don't know. She might have good intentions but going about it the way she has,i.e forcing people to resign is wrong. How can she dissolve a society that is prospering? O.K anyone can moan about this or that but it worked. It sounds like it was a bad decision to let her in at all, i can see a point of bringing in new blood to run a newer more modern society but to kick out the very bones that has made it what it is,is wrong. You need some experience behind you when you take over something like this and should be willing to listen to all points of view from everyone and not just bulldozer your own thoughts straight in regardless. ada
  21. 10 points
    S. 'Ellie Wang' is one of the most unbelievable plants I've ever seen, photos taken 5/5/17:
  22. 10 points
    Ordensis Paradoxa Kenneally Caduca Darwinensis Derbyensis Broomensis Ordensis x Lanata
  23. 10 points
    I really just want to say thumbs up for the admins and moderators working hard on this forum, esp now with the new update. :) Your hard work is very much appreciated and helps us a lot with growing our carnivorous plants. One can never give too many compliments! Thanks guys! It had to be said.
  24. 10 points
    I’v been asked several times from many growers how I sow Cephs seeds. Well, the time has come and finally I found some time today in the greenhouse and sowed them. Anyway, here is some FAQ that I’v been asked and of course the answers: Usually I sow the Cephs seeds in early autumn ( as it is now) and they spend all the time from now up till early spring in the greenhouse with all my other plants. The temps vary from 13 - 26C during the autumn to 0C -10C during the winter and usually with the warming of the time 15C -25C ( early March) they start to germinate naturally. The potting mix that I use even I don’t know what is it with certain. All is mixed up by eye and I don’t follow proportions like 1:1 peat/perlite or 1:1:1 peat/perlite/sand etc. My mixes are from peat, perlite, sand, seramis, lava rock, pumice, coco peat, coco husk, peat fiber, coco fiber, chopped sphag, charcoal, orchid coir and stuff like that... or in other words everything that I have in my hand. However, even if u ask me in what soil are potted my adult Cephs - I can’t answer, because as I said above everything is mixed up according to the needs in certain time and whatever I find. On the other hand I never find Cephs too fussy about the potting mix and what ingredients are included in it. It is important to mention that the seeds that I have received from John Yates from Australia, however I usually got them in autumn ( autumn in Oz), but during the same time here is mid spring ( Europe), so our seasons have different time and here is already too late the seeds to be sown. So, once I got the seeds I keep them in my fridge (4-5C) from the spring up till the autumn ( like now) and then I sow them. During the last 4 - 5 years I tried and did several experiments to sow seeds in summer time here or late in the summer with the hope to get germination – all I ended up was 0% germination, so all my attempts to sow those Oz seeds failed. The conclusion is – they should be sown in the right time ( autumn) - at least that work for me. It really does not matter those seven months. Yes, this is the time they have spent in my fridge - from spring to autumn but that doesn’t mean anything neither cold stratification - it means just seeds storage and nothing else. The real cold stratification begins now – cold and damp strat. The seeds need cold and damp strat not just cold and dry as in my fridge… Anyway, the seeds that I get from my plants usually in mid summer I don’t keep them in my fridge up till the autumn. I keep them in dry t/c jar in my greenhouse at temps 35 - 45C during the summer and I sow them now with the other seeds from Oz. What I use – whatever container I have in my hand. I mentioned already about the soil. I use labels and rain water. What I do - I just sprinke the seeds on already wet soil in the autumn. Then gently I spray them with water so they can stick to the soil and that is all I do. The light is not a factor for high germination rate. I've had 98% germination in the darkest corner in my greenhouse under the benches where the light is 30% or less. Just bright position is enough. The high humidity is not a factor for high or good germination rate - I’v had high germination rate at 18 -20% humidity. I do not spray and do not use fungicides when I sow the seeds neither during the cold stratification nor for my seedlings or adult plants – just I have good ventilation with lots fresh air. I hope this helps and answers all questions that you guys asked me. Please note that what works for me and my conditions the same may not work for u and your conditions. Good luck to all ! Here is a tray with seeds from: Cephalotus Two Peoples Bay, Cephalotus Denbarker, Cephalotus Northcliffe, Cephalotus Gull Rock Road, Cephalotus Big Donk etc. This year I sowed seeds from different pure locations, location hybrids and my own crosses - all 23 types. Frankly this year is my last year when I sow Cephs seeds...
  25. 10 points
    Hi everyone, The weather outside is frightful - but at least it's mild. Good for the heating bill. Here are a few winter pitchers: N.macrophylla N. trusmadiensis: N. aristo: N. klossii: N. peltata: N. veitchii (1): N. veitchii (2): Wishing you good growing in 2016! Wiser
  26. 10 points
    hi everyone here are some photos of my collection here in scotland, hope you enjoy. photo of the greenhouse n.boschiana n.talangensis x ventricosa n.louisa n.linda n.spatulata x spectabilis just opened n.eymae & n.spathulata x ventricosa spathulata x platychilla n.burbidgeae x platychilla n.camanulata x robcantleyi n. maxima x trusmadiensis n.tenuis h.minor h.nutans n.boschiana x mira n.jamban n.mikei n.ventricosa n.glabrata n.? lots of little plants n.platychilla n.macfarleni n.? n.spathulata x glabrata http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/77344cc31810fc162316d69fc06b86 greenhouse shots
  27. 10 points
    I was thinking of putting a ruler two feet behind this one to make it look 3ft tall, but i decided it was big enough in reality so didn't bother
  28. 10 points
    Hello all, I have a small collection that I wanted to share with you. So I present you my few petiolaris Sundews: D. caduca D. petiolaris D. fulva D. paradoxa D. dil. pet. D. lanata D. kennealliy x darwinensis D. broomensis D. Falconeri i hope you appreciate, Nicolas.
  29. 10 points
    Er... am I the only one not understanding why some people are so aggressive about this topic? Do you guys have a black plant in your pocket and you wanted that name for yourself? Come one! Have a laugh! (and a beer, cheers!)
  30. 9 points
    a nice red darlingtonia
  31. 9 points
    It's a good year for the plants, lots of sun here.
  32. 9 points
    Location Venus Fly Traps are temperate plants, not tropical as many people mistakenly assume, and so can be grown outdoors in the summer in most parts of the world including Europe. They require full sun and as much of it as possible, but in hotter regions of the world some shading and added humidity may be needed if it is particularly dry. In cooler parts of the world such as Northern Europe a greenhouse will improve growth, but is not essential. The more sun the Venus Fly Trap gets the better the colouration of the traps. If you are keeping your Fly Trap indoors then a South facing window is best. Remember that on particularly hot days, windows in full sun can be hot enough to burn your plants, even in Northern Europe . So care is needed to provide some ventilation at these times. Potting There are a number of suggested growing mediums into which you can pot your Venus Fly Trap. These include live Sphagnum moss, dead Sphagnum moss, peat moss, mixtures of Perlite or horticultural (silica) sand and peat moss from 30:70 to 50:50 respectively. They obviously all work, but it is difficult to say which works best without a scientifically conducted investigation. If you know of such an investigation I would be interested in a reference. Arguably the most popular medium appears to be a 30:70 mix of Perlite and peat moss, both available from local garden centres. However, you should choose a medium that is easily available to you. You should also consider peat substitutes as peat milling, the main method peat is harvested for horticultural use, is unsustainable, destroying the biological, archaeological and landscape value of peatland. There are too many alternatives to describe in detail here, but the link below should provide all the information you need. CPS article on peat substitutes for carnivorous plants If you are repotting a plant into a larger pot it is a straight forward process. Place some new growing medium into the bottom of the new pot and centre your plant (minus the old pot, but still surrounded by its original growing medium) in the new pot, so that the old surface is about level with the top of the new pot. You then fill in around the sides with new growing medium and soak in water from the base. The process is a little trickier if you are potting bare rooted plants or are splitting a plant that has divided. In these cases you are starting with a rhizome and roots that have none or very little growing medium around them. In this situation the leaves of the Venus Fly Trap have a tendency to bend downwards around the rhizome, making it difficult to plant without burying the leaves. The way I pot bare rooted plants is to first ensure the pot is deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. I loosely fill the pot with growing medium. Make a hole in it deep enough to take the roots and wide enough for the rhizome. Then the tricky part is to hold the plant gently at the rhizome in one hand and use the other hand to gather together the leaves and gently bend them back upwards to above the rhizome. Then holding them in that position release the hand holding the rhizome. Lower the plant, root first into the hole until the rhizome is just below the surface. You can use a pencil to push the roots down if they are particularly long. Carefully squeeze in the sides of the hole so the medium surrounds the rhizome and roots. Extra medium can then be added and pressed down the sides of the pot to replace that which was squeezed into the hole. Then spray the surface with water to flatten the medium wash the leaves and ensure the roots are wet. The pot can then be soaked in water from the bottom to ensure all the medium becomes wet. Tip - Medium has a tendency to gradually wash out of the bottom of the pot. To reduce this I use some perlite and plastic netting (the stuff they use to bag oranges in is ideal) cut to fit the bottom of the pot. Place the netting in the bottom of the pot first. I then put a centimetre or two (depending on the size of the pot) of Perlite on top of the netting and my growing medium on top of this. The Perlite reduces the amount of peat washed out and the netting stops the Perlite coming out. Another advantage of following this tip is that the layer of Perlite improves drainage and so prevents stagnation. It also improves aeration in the bottom of the pot, which is thought to encourage healthy root growth. Watering Venus Fly Traps live in nutrient poor soil and have evolved an elaborate mechanism for capturing and obtaining nutrients from small animals instead. As a result their roots are not adapted to normal levels of soil nutrients and can be damaged by them, resulting in the death of the plant over a period of time. Tap water, particularly hard water contains many nutrients as dissolved salts, and other chemicals such as chlorine, that are harmful to Venus Fly Traps. So it is widely accepted that watering with tap water is not a good idea. Most growers use rain water which is free and readily available (particularly in the UK ). More expensive alternatives include distilled water or water purified with a reverse osmosis unit. If you live near a hill or mountain you may be able to get away with stream water, so long as it is close to the source so as not to have picked up anything on its travels. I have done this when I have run out of rain water (very rare in UK ) without any ill effects. If you live in a soft water area you could risk using tap water, which has been left to stand for a few days, as a last resort. However, before doing this on a regular basis I would suggest experimenting first on a single plant over an extended period of time to see if there are any detrimental effects. One way to test how much salts are in your water would be to boil 4 litres in a metal pan until it has all disappeared, and look for a white residue in the bottom (salts). If it has no residue then it should be safe to use on your plants. However, you should still let it stand for a few days to allow volatile substances added during processing such as chlorine to disappear. Pots should be kept in deep trays which should contain about 3 to 5 cm of water in the bottom during the growing season. During the dormancy period you can empty the tray and just keep the growing medium damp. When watering, it is recommended to add the water to the tray not onto the growing medium. Ideal pot type Dormancy The Venus Fly Trap is a perennial plant, and in its natural environment it has a growing season during the summer and a period of dormancy during the winter. For the plant to stay healthy this dormancy needs to occur. How this is achieved will again depend on where you live. If you live in a climate similar to the Carolinas then you do not have to do anything as your Venus Fly Trap will naturally enter dormancy. If you live in a climate that experiences cold winters then your Venus Fly Trap will also enter dormancy naturally. However, if they are kept outdoors then they will need protection from frost. If they are in the ground then they should be covered in some kind of mulch to stop then from freezing. If they are in a pot then they should be put in a greenhouse/cold frame or somewhere such as a garage with a window where it is cool (less than 10 degrees Celsius) but is frost free. If your Venus Fly Trap is kept indoors on a window sill, then it may be too warm here to initiate the dormancy state. Move it to a cool but frost free part of the house with some light, such as a garage or unheated room. If you are in a tropical region then dormancy does not occur naturally as the photoperiod and temperature does not change significantly. In this case the plant has to be tricked into entering dormancy by reducing the amount of light the plant is getting to about 6 hours per day. This is best done gradually over a few weeks. At this point it is recommended that you put your Venus Fly Trap in a refrigerator (not the freezer section), either potted or in a plastic bag, bare rooted and wrapped in moist Sphagnum moss or something similar. Your Venus Fly Trap should undergo a dormancy period of about 4 months, usually November to February inclusive in the northern hemisphere. During this time the growing medium should be just damp but not wet. On bringing it out of dormancy it should be introduced to sunlight gradually so as not to damage the leaves. However, some people do not worry about this as the damaged leaves are quickly replaced by new leaves that adapt to the light as they grow. If you are putting your plant outdoors, be prepared to protect them early on if frost is forecast. Propagation When your Venus Fly Trap is mature it will naturally split, producing as many as 5 smaller plants. These can be separated and potted into individual pots, where each will grow into new adult plant in a much shorter time than a seed would. Take a mature plant that has a number of distinct growing points. Tip upside down and tap the pot and or squeeze the sides until the plant and soil drops out. Dont forget to use the other hand to catch the plant. If it had divided many times the root system should hold everything together. You can wash the soil off the plant if you wish, so that you can clearly see the divisions. The plants can then be gently prised apart. Normally the main thing to remember is not to break of the young plants until they have their own root systems, and are clearly separated from each other. There is an exception to this if you wish to force divisions from the plant. (see later) Pot them up as you would bare rooted plants. Plants produced in this way are natural clones of the parent plant, and are genetically identical to them and each other, possessing all the characteristics of the parent. There is a method to make divisions from a plant that has not yet divided, but this may be risky for the novice. A mature rhizome will elongate as new leaves are produced at the front and old leaves die at the back. Cut the rhizome into sections between where one leaf base meets the next leaf base, ideally ensuring that each section has one or more roots attached. However I have been successful with sections that didnt have any roots. Some of your sections particularly towards the older back part of the rhizome may not have any leaves on them. This doesnt matter as provided they are kept moist and do not get infected they will eventually produce leaves, and also roots if they too are absent. Pot these sections up as you would bare rooted plants. Tip - To reduce infection steralize your blade in a flame before use. Also plant sections into live sphagnum moss instead of peat, as it has natural antiseptic properties. Not really necessary with sections with leaves and roots but may improve the success rate of sections without leaves and roots, that take longer to establish. Another way to get clones from your parent plant it to take leaf ‘pullings'. It is recommended that you take leaf ‘pullings' from healthy adult plants, as an unhealthy or young plant may not take the shock. Take a healthy plant and select a leaf on the outside of the rhizome. Gently pull it downwards and out like peeling a banana. Ensure that some white rhizome tissue is at the base. This tissue contains the undifferentiated cells that are capable of dividing to form new plants. Cells from other parts of the leaf have become specialised to carry out a particular function for the plant such as water transport, photosynthesis, protective epidermal layer etc and cannot change back. The trap is then cut or pinched off and discarded. The leaf is laid flat on the surface of some live sphagnum moss with the white end slightly buried. The ‘pulling' should be kept in full sun, and warmth. The moss will create a humid atmosphere around the 'pulling' and protect against microbial attack. Leaf pullings can also be propagated in normal growing medium, and the success rate can be increased by keeping in a humid atmosphere of a terrarium or clear plastic bag. However, you must be careful not to ‘cook' your ‘pulling' by excess heat, that can often result from having plants in terrariums or plastic bags on hot days, particularly in South facing windows. Some growers have had success at propagating Venus Fly Traps simply by snipping of the flower stalks as they grow and planting them upright in the growing medium to a depth of about a centimetre. This is worth trying even if you are a beginner, as your mature Venus Fly Traps will usually start growing a flower stalk each spring, and most growers cut these off anyway as they take a lot of resources from the plant which would otherwise be used to make traps. So you have nothing to loose, unless you really want the flowers to develop for seeds. A more advanced method of producing large amounts of identical Venus Fly Traps relatively quickly is by tissue culture. But this technique is advanced, and beyond the scope of this guide. However, there are many articles on the web about this subject. If you are interested in developing new varieties of Venus Fly Traps, the easiest way to achieve this is by basically letting nature take its course, and allowing flowers to develop on your plants. Pollination of the flowers is the sexual form of reproduction in plants, producing seeds that will grow into new plants with characteristics of both parents and so increasing variation. You can manipulate this process by crossing the plants that you want, in the hope that seeds are produced that will result in plants with characteristics that are highly desirable. For example you may have a red Venus Fly Trap and a Venus Fly Trap with an interesting shaped trap. You may wish to cross these two plants to try and get a plant that is red and has the interesting shaped traps. Warning, this can be a long and laborious process and you may not live long enough to see results. People sometimes collect from wild populations as they are bigger, and so the chances of something interesting arising from cross pollination are increased. Please do not collect from the wild as it is either illegal or carefully regulated.
  33. 9 points
    I have a love of science and as a result have been testing multiple methods of leaf pullings on Dionaea for some time now, this is a log of my testing method, results and conclusions. Introduction: I'm a student so cutting costs is one of my top priorities when taking cuttings, as a result all of my experiment was preformed using items that can be found in the common household(excluding a full spectrum CFL and a VFT:-P) as a result no chemical additives were used eg. Rooting hormones, anti-fungal powders .etc. All experiments were preformed over a three month period During said period progress was recorded at 1 month intervals Each factor/method was preformed with three leaves Once the traps turned fully black (in all methods) they were removed to prevent fungal growth Taking pullings: Pullings were taken early February from a plant which was bought fresh fresh out of dormancy Pullings were taken by un-potting the VFT and "pulling" downwards on the leaves so a section of the rhizome came away each time All pullings were taken from the same two plants All chosen leaves were of the same size and health Procedure: Method 1: Pullings placed on Peat Moss The leaf Pullings were placed in dents on the surface of a pot of boiled peat moss(dent used to make the most possible surface area of the underside of the leaves be in contact with the peat moss, boiled in an attempt to kill off fungus spores and bacteria) The pots were placed in a tray of Rainwater approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each pot was covered in cling film Method 2: Pullings placed in Long fibre Sphagnum (LFS) The leaf Pullings were placed in on the surface of the boiled LFS with as much of the underside of the leaves in contact with the LFS as possible The pots were placed in a tray of Rainwater approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each pot was covered in cling film Method 3: Pullings placed submerged in Rainwater The leaf pullings were placed in glasses of boiled(then cooled) rainwater (boiled in this case in an attempt to kill bacteria and algal spores) The glasses were placed approximately 30cm away from a CFL Each glass was covered with cling film Results: Method 1: Pullings placed on Peat Moss This method resulted in the shortest amount of time before fungal growth was seen(at the 1 month interval) No successful strikes were seen before all pots were consumed by fungus(possibly due to cling film causing stagnant air which sped up spore germination) Method abandoned at 2 month mark when all leaves were noted to be dead Not a method I've had "lots" of success with in the past as well Method 2: Pullings placed in Long fibre Sphagnum (LFS) Method shows promise as 2/3 had strikes Fungal growth occurred only after 2 month mark Between month 2 and 3 two leaves were killed by fungus(one with a strike and one without) By the end of month 3 the remaining leaf had formed a plantlet Method 3: Pullings placed submerged in Rainwater By far most successful No maintenance required (ie. no topping up water) apart from removing dead traps %100 strike rate No fungus seen(due to submersion) Small amount of algae seen during month 1 but it was left alone Conclusion: After preforming all three variations of leaf pulling I found the most successful to be the technique of placing pullings in rainwater. The LFS strike that did survive had grown larger then all of the plantlets from the Submerged method, but a conclusion on size of plantlet can not be drawn as this could be an isolated case. From my own opinion the submersion method is also the easiest, no potting or watering, just stick it in a glass of boiled and cooled rainwater(not to mention it's the cheapest) Method of acclimatising Submerged plants to emmersed(yes it's a real word) state After plantlet has reached approx 1cm in diameter remove it from the glass and place it on LFS or peat (very wet) in a pot with cling film over the top Over the course of a 2-3 weeks pop holes in the cling film At the end of the three weeks you have air-hardy little plantlets After Notes: Two weeks on from the end of the experiment all 4 of the successful strikes have formed plantlets with small traps, the ones from the submersion technique seemed to take a week off of growing to acclimatise. I would like to see how long one on the plantlets could be left in water before being acclimatised as growth was much faster pre acclimatisation, buts that's a whole other experiment for a different time. I hope my long rambling report can help someone in some way eventually. - Niall FM
  34. 9 points
  35. 9 points
    Probably a bad clone of Homo girlfriendus extremus, consider the compost heap for this one and get one more adaptable to your growing conditions... Interesting experiment with the ampullaria!
  36. 9 points
  37. 9 points
    If that plant is black I suggest you get your eyes tested . It's red and nothing else .
  38. 9 points
    Seul le singe imite l'Homme.
  39. 8 points
    Hi everyone. I've built an interactive guide to Nepenthes species: https://www.carnivorousplants.co.uk/resources/nepenthes-interactive-guide/ It includes a lowland/highland temperature chart, and a species list which can be sorted by altitudinal range or alphabetically, as required. I've also created a hybrid calculator, which can estimate the ideal conditions for a hybrid based on its parents' habitats. Many thanks to Rob Cantley of BE for suggesting this feature. I hope other growers find this useful. I'm keen to update and improve it based on feedback - several people have suggested a 'sort by country/geography' feature for the species list, which I'm currently working on. Any other ideas, please just shout. Cheers, Tom
  40. 8 points
    and this Summer's lowii...... Wiser
  41. 8 points
    You may recall back in August (post #85) i told you about my spathulata x dubia which never put out any lower pitchers for me (despite me acquring the plant as a small 8cm rosetted example), until it inflated an intermediate pitcher after 2 years in my care when the plant had vined to about 2ft high. A few weeks ago i noticed the plant had popped a basal, so i may get to see what the lower pitchers look like after all ! And now yesterday, i spotted inflorescence beginning to form on the main vine. This is my very first nepenthes flower, and to say i'm a bit excited is an understatement ! It's too early to tell yet whether it's male or female, but thoughts of hybridisation have naturally entered my head already . I think it'd be nice to try and get a bit of peristome striping into the mix.
  42. 8 points
    Hi, it's time to wake up! Drosera zoneria large form Drosera magna Drosera colina Drosera tubaestylus Drosera heterophylla Drosera lowriei, Holt Hope you enjoy them. Best regards Lutz
  43. 8 points
    The construction of the baskets is very simple Coated wire fence and a large basket for plant growing Baskets are suitable primarily for Nepentes I did also a special version for Cephalotus, after painting polyurethane foam imitates the rocks
  44. 8 points
    Hello all friends, here are some pictures of my Nepenthes this year 2015 Sa ns titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr Sans titre by dimsnursery 33, sur Flickr
  45. 8 points
    003 by elvis g, on Flickr 006 by elvis g, on Flickr 006 by elvis g, on Flickr 049 by elvis g, on Flickr 114 by elvis g, on Flickr 021 by elvis g, on Flickr 008 by elvis g, on Flickr
  46. 8 points
    This post is from both myself (GazCez) and Ady (Carnivine). Today Ady took the very brave decision to ring myself to rectify what had become an unpleasant slanging match on this Forum. We have settled things in an adult and productive way hence this Forum posting. I am very glad he rang and if we encounter one another on our carnivorous travels we have agreed to shake hands and put things behind us. Certain issues have arisen during the debacle apart from the obvious pythium related tit for tat/ mud slinging - unpleasantness from other Forum members. As mediator in this dispute I do not want anyone to persecute or penalise either of us (and particularly Ady) when this matter is between us and now resolved - no matter how public I made the matter. I hope that sellers and buyers will continue to support us both and do not let this matter cloud their judgement. Bullying from other Forum members is also unacceptable and should not be directed at either party as has been the case in the past few days. We have come to an adult resolution about the issue and have come to the conclusion that we can only learn from the past few days. As far as the pythium subject matter is concerned we are both mightily sick of it and wish that it had never been mentioned. After discussion together we have no real idea as to what actually occurred. Short of scientific tests at vast expense we wish to move on. Having said that, pythium is a worthwhile discussion point on this Forum in a decent, civilised and non judgemental manner. Thank you for all of your patience during my meltdown and our subsequent muck slinging match.
  47. 8 points
    Thanks riveroalbert Time for a Winter update..... The four under-bench 120 litre water butts have gone. There were two reasons for this, the first was that i felt they kept the greenhouse far too damp and humid over the cold months, and i was having trouble with a few pitchers (and some new buds) blackening off and rotting. The barrels combined with the under foot water table, saw humidity pretty much sitting at 90-100% all winter. The overhead misting/watering system was set to only come on once a week, whereas it's set for once a day in Summer. Anyway, i just felt the humidity was too high for the dark gloomy days we get over winter, and wasn't helping matters. The second, and more obvious reason, was the amount of potential plant space they were occupying ! I did wonder at first about it being too shaded under the bench what with the shade netting too, but it's starting to get good light now so i think it'll be fine. Maybe before next winter i'll look into under bench lighting on a timer. But on the plus side it does give me a different growing enviroment, as temperatures average 2-3c lower than the bench above whilst humidity is about 10-15% higher. General overall humidity in the greenhouse has dropped on average 10% with the barrels removed (2.5% per 120ltr barrel) and i was only managing to average 50-60% in the heat of Summer, potentially 40-50% this year. So it looks like a hydrofogger and humidistat need to be budgetted for before this years heatwave. Despite the expense, i think in retrospect it's better to do it with a fogger as the barrels just take up far too much room for the +10% RH they contributed. I thought it might be best to put some 25mm Jablite insulation boards under the pots on the ground to give the roots a bit of extra insulation from below during cold months. The misting system was also extended to go under the bench. Here are some photos of how it looked mid January... This month i started work on the centre console thingy. I'm quite pleased with how it turned out even though i opted to use sawn 3x2 for the uprights instead of real branches, as it just made life easier for mounting gadgets. The bottom of the unit can accomodate 7 x 23cm baskets, while the mid shelf can hold 9 x 19cm baskets. I decided to make the shelf slightly narrower than the bottom bed just to give a few more valuable cm's of elbow room as you walk about. My other half doesn't like the new centre console and says she won't be going in the greenhouse anymore as there's no room to move. I explained greenhouses are for growing plants in, not ballroom dancing . So surprisingly it looks like i'll also be getting the sunny side of the greenhouse sooner than i thought ! Even more nep space !!! It's going to be another busy and costly year, but please don't tell her that I also added a second 4ft LED tube below the mid shelf and extended the misting system (again). Now i had a problem... way too many nozzles on a 4mm feed and 3 or 4 of them were just dribbling due to not having very high pressure in the greenhouse to begin with. So the centre console has been temporarily isolated from the main misting system and is hand watered for the time being. The plan is to get a second solenoid and another timer and tee off the MDPE supply under the bench in a different location before Spring arrives. I'll just put a 15 minute delay on this timer so it comes on when the main bench has finished it's 15 minute session. Bearing in mind the sunny side of the greenhouse will be mine in time, i know that that will mean a third solenoid and yet another timer because the amount of nozzles needed would be the same as above and under bench one, which i've discovered was maxed out at 12 nozzles. Eventually i'll end up with 3 individual 15 minute watering cycles one after the other, once at the end of each day. I've also started doing a bit of landscaping under bench 1 as this years plant orders start to come in, and also added more twisted willow branches for effect. Leftover decking board from the centre console build was used as a kick board to protect the front pots. The sharp eyed amongst you may be curious to what the little black boxes with a probe are, by the max/min thermometers. I wanted to measure the humidity at different locations and elevations within the greenhouse on a permanent basis but was unable to find anything small and suitable to buy apart from them cheap white Chinese hygro-thermometers. So i thought i'd try and make my own. I bought some 75mm size of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABS-Black-Plastic-Electronics-Project-Box-Enclosure-Hobby-Case-With-Screws-/261168658631?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 and a couple of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Probe-Reptile-Vivarium-TH04-Uk-/331361187637?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 and got to work. On the reverse side of the project box front plate, i place the LCD unit and scratch round it with a craft knife. Then drill a serious of small holes on the inside of the scribed lines. Then i cut the centre out with a craft knife.... And then a little bit of filing until the LCD Hygrometer clips in tightly. Because i wanted to use the smallest box suitable for the job, it meant cutting the faceplate hole off-centre to make room for the probe to be mounted in the opposite back corner of the box. I forgot to take a photo of the drilled back box, but basically it's just a 9mm hole for the probe and two fixing holes in the back. The probe is secured in place by a blob of silicone. The cable is zip tied into a tight loop ready for cramming in the box.... And the finished Hygrometer measuring a compact 3 inch by 2 inch. I'm pleased with them I hope that was helpful for anyone who wants to have a go at making their own too and thanks for reading
  48. 8 points
    This Hummer's giant pitcher has reached its full potential and stands at 10.1cm or 4 inches. Alright, now in return, I would like to see examples of other cephalotus giant pitchers. I know there are many growers here with decades of growing experience, and surely I can not be the first to cultivate a 10cm cephalotus pitcher. I know there are many individuals such as myself, who would not publicly show their plants, and neither would I, if it were not for the request from a dear friend.
  49. 8 points
    Sorry but in my opinion I dont think this is dark enough to be anything special. Ive had traps this dark on my red plants, and thats in the cloudy uk
  50. 8 points
    Nepenthes bicalcarata and Polyrhachis pruinosa :