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  1. 2007 purchased from Hampshire Carnivorous plants as a semi-mature plant (probable origin Borneo Exotics) Lower pitchers in 2022 after travelling to Cornwall and then to Germany (between 2010 and 2011) Intermediate pitcher 2022 Top view 2022 Upper pitcher 2022
    3 points
  2. Hi folks A quick introduction. I'm Dave, and I've recently taken over the role of Internet Officer for the Carnivorous Plant Society. That comes with responsibility for managing the CPUK Forum as well as the CPS website and various other bits and pieces. I haven't previously been an active member of this forum although I have referred to it for cultivation advice from time to time. I do have some experience looking after other forums and I'll do my best to keep this one in good shape. The Society has been through a bit of a rough patch over the past few years. I'm one of a number of new members of the Management Committee who are working to get things back into smooth operation and to provide a better experience for the Society's members. CPS members should have received notification of the AGM which is being held at the end of May via Zoom - we'd really appreciate your participation to help us set a positive direction for the Society over the coming year. If you haven't received an invitation, please let me know and I'll look into it. I look forward to supporting your community :)
    2 points
  3. Nepenthes khasiana Nepenthes inermis Nepenthes boschiana
    1 point
  4. Hello everyone LB T-rex nain LB Petit papillon LB Red dentate pygmy
    1 point
  5. Well done on getting it to flower in your first year. Sarracenia do not self-pollinate so unless you've got insects around you'll have to pollinate it yourself to get any seed. Seed pods take a while to mature so there wouldn't be any seeds until at least September/October time. To me your plants looks as if it needs more light so make sure it's in your brightest window.
    1 point
  6. As time passes I am dreading the upcoming peak summer month(s) when the night time temps will be consistently too high in this corner of the world. This is always the worst time for me, I much prefer the winter. I've never seen the cold kill a plant (even a D. Capensis) but the heat destroys everything and it gets worse every year... At least it looks like I will be able to collect seed in case they don't make it through the heat. I sincerely hope they make it since I am very fond of them. They both started flowering at the 1 year old mark. The bigger one (with the aluminum foil) is from another grower and even though it's a few months older, it's flowering later, almost a month of difference. Maybe it's from a higher elevation ? Also there seems to be minor differences in flower spikes but I can't say for sure until they have fully formed. I was hoping to cross pollinate them but looks like they either won't overlap or they will but for only a few buds.
    1 point
  7. Happy World Carnivorous Plant Day (May 4), Here is our contribution to the WCPD of the International Carnivorous Plant Society, ICPS. Irmgard and I wish you much pleasure!
    1 point
  8. Hi everyone To align with recommended security practices, we'll be changing the login method for the CPUK forum on 1st June 2022. Currently you login using your display name. From 1st June, you'll be asked to login using your registered email address instead. This makes it a bit harder for malicious actors to compromise accounts, since the emails associated with valid accounts aren't public information. This won't cause any other changes to your CPUK account. Your existing password etc. will still be valid.
    1 point
  9. Hi all, all membership packs should now be with the new members. if they are not please let me know and I will make sure the right person knows. @MikeP - I know a large order for fresh seeds is being made at the moment. I’ll update you when I know more. all the beat Ian
    1 point
  10. Yes it can. I put leaves in RO water under lights and at 20 C. It took several weeks but formed many plantlets.
    1 point
  11. Hello I have some available but I do not ship to the USA
    1 point
  12. After almost a year i was able to obtain a lot of Sphagnum species, which nearly all grow well (Remember they shouldn't be collected in the wild). I have 5 species that are making sporophytes now and I'm sharing some pictures of them. Also notice how different they look in close up. The features that distinguish for example S. papillosum from the others become really obvious through a macro lens(robust structure and branches, broad and hooded leaves, branches are more blunt than in S. palustre, which is the most common Sphagnum among CP growers), . The same goes for S. squarrosum (the outward pointing leaves (spikey look) and big apical bud in the center) and S. fimbriatum/girgensohnii (slender plant, with a really clear apical bud in the center). Sphagnum fimbriatum or girgensohnii (I didn't check it yet), may 28 and juni 9. S. squarrosum may 28 and juni 9 S. papillosum, june 9. I forgot to remove the net in this picture. All of my mosses are covered with this or birds would destroy the collection within a day if not less. , S. rubellum may 28 and june 9 (It seems I didn't get this in focus) S. russowii may 28
    1 point
  13. EDIT: New photo host website, old one suddenly asked 400$ from its users and pictures were not visible anymore. Hey everyone, I'd like to start this topic off with my modest Sphagnum cultures. I love the plants a lot and hope to expand to a collection of a lot of different species. The species of which I have most moss is this one. I think it might be S. squarrosum. (unidentified for now) It's a fast grower and I have enough to harvest every once in a while when I need top dressing for plants like Darlingtonia. I keep them in two different conditions, one tray inside on a south facing windowsill (picture 1 and 2). You can see the moss is really green here and grows less compact. There are no brown tips on the leafs. These D. capensis seedlings are one of the few survivors in there, the other Drosera and VFT seedlings got overgrown completely. I also keep a portion of this moss outside, in two pots. Surprisingly they don't mind to be in a normal pot, as long as they stand in water. I love how they grow over the edge. The plants are more brownish, grow compact and have brown dots on the leafs sometimes, but nevertheless they seem to be healthy to me. I tried to flush the pots with water, thinking that nutrients cause the brown spots, but it doesn't help. It's probably due to the sun/UV. I'm not sure. The second species I'm trying to get bigger amounts of, is this red one. Feel free to tell me the ID, I haven't had the courage yet to start going through a determination guide. It has a tendency to turn completely green when I take cuttings of it, and turning into dark purple/red after a month or two. Some say it's sun, lower pH, or reproductive structures. I'm not sure what it really is that turns this plant red. This species grows not as fast and is a lot smaller, the branches are smaller and less robust then the first species and the heads are much smaller too. I harvest it and use it for cp seedlings like Cephalotus or Nepenthes, hoping the Sphagnum protects them against fungus and cyanobacteria. I chop it up before bringing it on the sowing medium, so it doesn't grow too fast at the start. It looks really beautiful , but that's just me :) I probably have 3 or 4 other species that I'm trying to separate out of the other moss and hope to keep them apart in different pots, outside. If anyone is interested to share species with me, I'd love to expand my collection!
    1 point
  14. Love going in the jungle, we've been visiting various north/central parts of Thailand for a few years, most recently up near the Laos border. Found some very rare coelogynes which is one of my favourite orchids groups.
    1 point
  15. Thanks for the ID's buster. I always like to find out what it is I've actually seen. First time I've been in a proper bit of jungle for about 15 years, I forgot how much I enjoy it. I shall have to carefully search for more "family" holidays that are accidentally next to national parks...
    1 point
  16. http://www.carnivorousplants.org/cpn/Species/v29n4p116_122.html#hummers The picture is very poor, so how anyone can draw any conclusions based on it is beyond me.
    1 point
  17. The different varieties of Drosera binata are basically separated from one another by the number of forks and points on the leaves. Names such as D. multifida and D. dichotoma are not legitimate ones and are used by some growers only for convenience. Possibly some time in the future these plants may be separated into species of their own by a taxonomist, but until then they should be referred to as varieties of D. binata only. D. binata 'T Form'- is the typical form of D. binata that only forks once. This form is the most common and found along the east coast and south of Australia across to WA and New Zealand. Usually a dark green plant with red glands. D. binata var. dichotoma 'Small Type' - This form forks twice to form 4 points. This variety is generally a warmer growing plant than the typical variety and is found growing up the east coast of Australia only. These plants grow to a similar size as the typical 'T form' which is usually around 20cms tall. D. binata var, dichotoma 'Giant Type'- Is the much larger version of the previous form (up to 60 cms) which has a golden green colouration. This plant also only occurs on the east coast of Australia from about Sydney northwards. D. binata var. dichotoma 'T-form'- Is a plant that is about the same size as a giant dichotoma with the same golden green colouration but with only one fork and two points. Also an east coast plant. D. binata var. multifida- In multifida the leaves fork again, this time to produce 8 points (generally, there are always exceptions). These plants are also only found on the east coast of Australia and also begin at about Sydney. D. binata var. multifida 'Extrema'- Even more forking in this variety can produce an amazing amount of points. I think sometimes up to 64 points per leaf (possibly more). This plant occurs in a sub-tropical climate on the northern half of eastern Australia in the state of Queensland. D. binata var. multifida 'Pink Form'- Same as the var. multifida but with pink flowers. An interesting point is that I have seen populations of plants which often show variety. In a population of the typical D. binata in southern Australia (the state of Victoria near Melbourne) you can sometimes find plants (usually only a couple per population) that fork more than once and others that fork only once but are much larger with the same golden green colouration of a giant dichotoma. These populations have been seen in areas many hundreds of kms from where the var. dichotoma varieties are found. These plants are probably not what you would call a var. dichotoma, just an aberrant form that has mutated amongst a large population. Hope this helps. Sean.
    1 point
  18. Ricevuto da poco.....per ora produce brocche nella media..non è da definire un giant....ma molto bello.....di un nero intenso..
    0 points