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  1. So this summer I had 5 plants. At the peak of summer I was watering them every 2 days and apparently it wasn't enough because I lost 3 of them. The remaining two plants I watered every day and they survived. My media is mostly mineral so what worked for other growers (ie watering less) didn't work in my conditions. It was interesting to observe that they shrank to almost half their size during the hottest months. Little dew (althought they kept catching) and they lost their upright claw-like form. Then we had a week when there was very strong morning dew (everything looked wet like it had just rained) and they almost doubled in size with big droplets of dew and went right back to their upright form. It was amazing to see how they reacted so positively to morning dew. Here they are now 3 months later.
    2 points
  2. Now that I am retired and walking round a garden centre. I thought I would try and keep some carnivorous plants. I went a bit mad or maybe a totally mad and brought 6 plants. one Pinguicula Tina. Two Drosera capensis. Two Nepenthes monkey cups. One Venus flytrap. I have an unheated greenhouse that I have been putting them in the day and bringing them into the house at night apart from the Pingguicula Tins which I have keeped in the house all the time. I have re-potted them into deeper plastic pots and just water them with distilled water. Now this is where I need your advice on how to take care of them over the winter. I have put some photo's of the plants for you to see. Than
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  3. Hi Les go to the Carnivorous Plant Society website at www.thecps.org.uk and have a look at the growing guides.
    1 point
  4. I use battle fungicide with great sucess and 0 harm... tebuconazol 0,02% I hope this help you
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  5. Welcome Les All except the Nepenthes should be Ok in the greenhouse over winter as long as the temperature doesn't get much below zero Celsius for too long. The Nepenthes won't tolerate such low temperatures over the winter, so keeping them indoors is best. VFTs are particularly hardy and I've had them frozen solid for a few weeks in winter and still bounce back the following spring. Amazing! Watering should always be by filling the tray with distilled or rain water during the summer and keeping the plants just damp over winter. Hope this helps. Guy
    1 point
  6. Yellow sulphur is available at most garden centres. With the shorter daylight hours and decreased light indoors you will find you will get more of the mould growth with growing indoors, i have this problem as i grow some of mine indoor at present. Do you have anywhere you can put them outdoors say in an unheated porch as the darlingtonia definitely needs a dormancy period and the draught from being outside should help keep the mould at bay.
    1 point
  7. Well, it surely has been an interesting journey these past few years. Learnt a lot, and started getting into more challenging plants as I went along. Here are a few recent pics of the collection. https://flic.kr/p/2mCYEH9
    1 point
  8. Peat-based substrates are horrible, just wash well the roots and repot them. Watering from above is always a good idea and I'd advise you to do so at least occasionally.
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  9. Are they outside but covered just to keep the rain off them? I have used yellow sulphur powder in the past but with only a 50/50 success rate along with giving them more air flow. Other one I have used, again along with improving air flow around the plants was fungus clear ultra. The second one was used only once on a sarracenia and did help but they are tough plants
    1 point
  10. Hey Magnus, loved the video! Keep it up! Always love new content and videos to help me along! Thanks for sharing
    1 point
  11. Hello and welcome to the forum
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  12. Just fill up the traps, any excess comes out of the hole and slit. NHC sells some really good plants, he is a top bloke and he answers your emails. Cheers Adam
    1 point
  13. Yes outside it is fully hardy
    1 point
  14. Hi Sam and welcome
    1 point
  15. Yes, better outside... what species is it? Protect it from direct rain and let the substrate only humid but not too wet;-)
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  16. Hello and welcome to the forum
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  17. Hi all... A mate of mine gave me some venus flytrap seeds which started me buying more seeds online from China for more carnivorous plant seeds.. When I received the seeds from China they at 1st looked about right so planted them, ( they weee supposed to be a mix of vfts and sundews) but after about 5 min later of watering them I noticed the seeds have an appearance of miniature frogspawn or as if the seeds are covered in a gel coat. (Top pic ) Also my mates vft seeds were planted a few weeks back but look nothing like vfts.Could the seedlings be sarracenia perhaps? (Bottoman pic ) top pic are seeds from China but don't think they're vft o
    1 point
  18. The best is you start with heads of shagnum. For a tray of 60x40 cm you need about 4 litre of them. Drill 2 holes about 3 cm from the bottom. My tray is outside. The holes prevet that the rain covers all the shagnum. The first time it takes about 2 - 3 month till the moss reaches the top of the tray. Then you can cut it with a scissors. The rest which stays in the tray recovers and it starts all over again. Don`t use any soil only the pure shagnum with rainwater.
    1 point
  19. Cephalotus " True Giant", C. "Giant Klaus Keller", C. "Giant Rudi Fuerst", C. "Giant Günter Eitz", C."Giant Harald Weinert" or when the madness will stop? Which one is the originator of this clone and how should one and the same plant ( clone) be named? I don't know wether the people are all alive but Klaus Keller is defenitely is, even however he is member of CPUK forum, so probably he will get part in this thread with more info.... Would the name after the growers help to all CPs community or this is just fortune and glory?
    1 point