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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I must have missed the fb post,but would be interested to see what is going off. It's always been good to get things out in the open to stop Chinese whispers and get both sides so everyone gets a fair chance to have their say. Ada
  2. 3 points
    I made this some years ago. I'm sure you will agree it turned out rather nice.
  3. 2 points
    There has been a facebook post outlining issues, some serious, within the CPS committee. The post also provided corrective actions that have been proposed. However, the post also indicated that differences of opinion with a number of current committee members. Rather than respond in facebook I thought CPUK may be more appropriate. A) Could the membership be fully informed of the reputed issues? B) I would like to see the views of those accused of bringing the CPS into disrepute? C) I would like to see the proposals in detail for the corrective action with timescales? I've been a member for a long time. I'm as keen as everbody else to see this sorted but transparency and member backing are essential for this, and the society, to suceed. Cheers
  4. 2 points
    This is a personal response and not on behalf of the Committee. I am sure that we will also have a formal response from the Committee in due course. WITHOUT PREJUDICE To start with I would like to state that I agree with many of the intentions that Annette initially stated as aspects of the CPS that she wanted to review. The website for example does look dated and clunky and really does need a makeover/restart. I have only been on the committee a relatively short while and I hope that everyone who knows me would understand that I have only ever tried to work to the benefit of the Society and members. I certainly don’t have any long standing personal disagreements with anyone. I believe that all and any actions that I have ever taken were within the law and also within the remit of the governing document. I will of course continue to work within remit of the governing document of the Society and will also absolutely respect the written advice of the Charity Commission. I have no concerns about long standing, respected members such as Stephen Morley joining the executive of the Society but conversations with the Charity Commission have raised concerns about how this was done. Personally I am unclear how we have reached this point. However I do want to understand this. Today I have submitted written instructions to start a formal process under UK law to clarify the statements made above by Annette as I have not yet seen any evidence to support these, despite repeated requests. I have no wish to tarnish the reputation of anyone involved but I will pass on the results of this process to the wider membership in due course so that we can have absolute clarity on these issues. Regards, Steve
  5. 2 points
    2019 turns out to be a good season for the largest catapult-flypaper trap. The catapults fling prey in 75 milliseconds, faster than the VFT. Now, the plants are flowering nicely at our greenhouse.
  6. 2 points
    I had an early morning delivery a couple of weeks ago Finally all finished, I hope to move my plants tomorrow
  7. 2 points
    Dear all, I will post and update information about lectures prepared on EEE 2019 in Prague here. Exact dates and times have not been chosen yet, but will be in advance. The lecture hall has more than 100 seats, so it should be large enough, and we are not going to demand any registrations for the lectures. Confirmed lectures: Dr. Tomáš Hájek: The fate of peatbogs during the dry years and their future in the changing climate Oliver Gluch: Winter flowering Pinguicula species - impressions from natural habitats in Mexico Dr. Lubomír Adamec: Ecophysiological characterization of aquatic carnivorous plants: are they different from terrestrial ones? We are looking forward all of you in June! Adam Veleba
  8. 1 point
    We will be doing so.
  9. 1 point
    Hi, "Error" was grown from 'Eden Black' selfed seed by Kai Becker in 2011. It is an odd, slow growing plant without pitchers, so some don't think it would be a good cultivar. This is the inofficial description: https://translate.google.de/translate?hl=&sl=de&tl=en&u=forum.carnivoren.org%2Fforums%2Ftopic%2F43234-cephalotus-follicularis-error%2F There are probably more plants with inofficial names or codes than registered cultivars in cultivation. Ideally, a special plant that is grown by many growers and that clearly differs from other plants should be described as a cultivar. But it takes some effort to do this. Practically, many excellent plants have not (yet) been officially described and (yet) some average plants have been registered.
  10. 1 point
    Biloba "Moolooaba" is flowering!
  11. 1 point
    Morning. Won't take long to fill then LOL. Have you thought about water trays? A mate helped me to construct some last year. I fitted the pond liner. Lots more room to get pots in with loads of storage underneath the tray benches.
  12. 1 point
    Hello, we spent the next day as well in the National Park looking for carnivorous plants and more. We basically found, what we have seen the day before. As there is nothing more to tell, here are just some pictures from that day. Regards, Christian
  13. 1 point
    Nepenthes in Bau video I forgot to post. For growing information Nepenthes Were growing in sand and clay soil. Ampullaria only had basal in very very high humidity and good light. Ampullaria vines get full sun and produce a lot of flowers when in these conditions. Gracilis only grew in brighter places. Humidity was like 95% and temp was 32-34 Celsius. 4F37E504-FC14-4DCD-9FD6-92B29FCB2B50.MOV
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Looking good. Looks more 16 feet to me?
  16. 1 point
    Very nice,won,t be long before its full
  17. 1 point
    Welcome Justin.
  18. 1 point
    Looks like a 12 footer? Loads of room and looking good.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Justin, welcome to the forum.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Here is a link to my Nepenthes Tenuis viscous fluid video.
  22. 1 point
    Hello so when I was In Ipoh I visited the Nepenthes park in Kledang Siaong which is about 2 hours from Kuala Lumpur also if you ever visit on the roadside there are tons of Nepenthes Gracilis and apparently on the road up Gunung Kledang some green and spotted Nepenthes Albomarginata also there are Drosera Burmanii which I am trying to find. In this park there were many Nepenthes approximately 72 different types of nepenthes all lowlanders as well as some highlanders, And to my amazement they had 3 Nepenthes clipeatas growing in the ground. The conditions at this place were. average day temperature is 32 Celsius and night is 24 Celsius, The plants had 50 % shade cloth, Were growing in soil from the local construction site which was very well draining and made up of sand,Clay bits of red compacted clay and some decaying leaves also the Salaginella growing with the plants helped keep the soil good and create pockets of air in the soil with its thick roots, the plants were also watered twice a day by a hose pipe. Nepenthes Clipeata Bonus Nepenthes Sumatrana according to the guy is the only place he knows in cultivation where it grows like the ones in the wild this is also the same for the Khasiana and Ampullaria as well as the Bical which all grew like the wild types. Khasiana Ampullaria Bicalcarata Thank you.
  23. 1 point
    Hi everyone. There are a lot of posts in the forum which say do not give up on your Drosera or sown seeds. This is my story of their resilience. In April I brought a purp. I selected this pot as it had a fantastic Drosera in it, which I’m almost certain is Slackii. In my wisdom I decided to dig up the drosera and plant them in their own pot. What could go wrong, I’ve done this before. The reason for doing this was that I thought they would be smothered by the purp, and a bit of OCD I suppose. There was also a tiny seedling which was being smothered by slime. I used some forceps to dig down and lift as much root and soil as possible. Shortly after replanting the seedling vanished and the mature plants shrivelled up and died. I was upset I’d lost such a beautiful plant. Maybe I should have taken it slow and done one at a time to see how it recovers. Maybe I should have taken leaf cuttings first. Maybe I should have waited for flower and seed. Anyway they are dead and lesson learned. I was going to recycle the pot but had nothing to put into it yet so I left it. A few weeks ago the slime covered seedling reappeared, healthy and doing well. It must be the seedling as it was fresh media and I’ve never had any seed in my collection before (only started keeping sundews again this spring after a 20 year break). Needles to say I was surprised and very pleased. Better yet, the drosera in the purp pot popped up again a couple days ago, three months after my disasterous replant attempt. They must be growing from root left behind in the purp pot. I am so happy and relieved, I was convinced I’d lost them. I certainly will be more cautious in future. drosera before repot attempt. Other side of pot with slime covered seedling visible. Resurrected drosera in purp pot Other side Resurrected seedling, dried husks of mature plants barely visible.
  24. 1 point
    Hi everyone, Now that my Terrarium is up and running I thought I should introduce it properly and show you the steps of the build along the way, which may help to inspire others to create similar projects. I used to have a small terrarium, which consisted of an old 45x30x25cm fish tank, lit by a 6400K 45W spiral compact fluorescent. It worked ok and the light certainly was powerful enough just to grow plants but it had problems with keeping the heat under control, keeping the water conditions stable and inevitably; I simply ran out of space! Last year I found a larger, second-hand fish tank and soon put together the idea of an LED build for a more hi-tech and efficient terrarium to allow my plants to really thrive. Here, finally is the result of my setup... It's a 75cm x 32cm x 39cm grow space that's warm and humid - in order for me to grow tropical species year round. I went with 55x 3W star LEDs, comprising 28x Cool white and 27x Warm white in equal spacing. The LEDs came from Michael Houlder at FutureEden (via his ebay shop). He's a great guy and helped me with my initial questions into LED wiring and electronics. I needed a heatsink to mount the LEDs to and also to form the entire hood of my terrarium. After a lot of searching around, I opted for a custom-made, black-annodised aluminium heatsink from Birmingham Aluminium (http://www.bal-group.com/home). They were very helpful and communicative to discuss my needs and clarified the thermal properties of the heatsink would successfully handle the proposed 55x 3W LED heat load. This was the single most expensive item in the entire build, but was critical to ensure I had a lasting terrarium with safe temperatures. The heatsink sits perfectly flush with the top, left and right sides of the tank, but has a very small 1cm air gap at the back - providing a small but useful exchange of fresh air as well as some space for any wiring to go into, or out of, the tank. Here's the heatsink, with a pair of T-bar handles installed so that I can lift the hood off (relatively) easily... The spacing for the LEDs was carefully checked using a handy PAR calculator via an excel spreadsheet. This had been set up for aquarium enthusiasts to calculate that the proposed spread of light would achieve a desired PAR level. If I remember correctly, I shot for a PAR around 2000, which is close to full sunlight (aim high, right!) LED's glued in place with thermal adhesive... With the spacing sorted, I then planned the wiring, making sure it was as neat and efficient as possible but still allowing for an even distribution of cool and warm white. The two 'sets' of LEDs are run on different drivers so I have the option of having the Warm and/or Cool white banks on at any one time. This also allows for future adjustment to light schedules and time overlaps. The wire used is silicon-sheathed which is heat proof and highly flexible. Planning the wiring.. Main wiring paths soldered in place... First test of the drivers and warm white LEDs... Wow, extremely bright and painful to look at. A stopped-down photograph shows the individual LEDs better than our blinded eyes can see.. Here is the hood in place with tested lights on - remember this is still only the warm white set (half the total)... Time to wire and test the Cool white set... All LEDs on together (camera stopped down to be able to see properly)... (The yellow wire is an earth - connected all the way to the plug earth and will be attached to the aluminium hood for safety in case of any wiring faults that may occur) Full brightness over the tank... My original ideal PAR calculations, incorporated the use of 30° lenses in order to direct the LED light efficiently downwards onto the plants. At this stage I hadn't installed them yet and it is quite clear that a lot of light is being wasted in all directions. The following composite photo shows the light spill of the LEDs by highlighting what little effect the main room light had when on or off! If you look at the carpet, you can see the bands of shadowing as the different rows of LEDs catch the edge of the sideboard... I glued each individual lens on as the holders they come with did not offer a good enough fit, especially with the soldered wires in place. I discovered that stacks of 2p coins formed the perfect sized weight whilst the epoxy was setting. (I opted for epoxy as the chemicals in superglue can apparently fog up the clear lenses!)... With all the lenses in place, the light spread is much more defined inside the tank with very little over spill outside.. Out of curiosity, I placed my phone into the bottom of the tank (35cm from the lights) and took a light level reading using it's inbuilt sensor... 38,000 lux; equivalent to sunlight! This was by no means a scientifically precise reading, but it was an excellent sign for me. Before filling up with water and introducing plants, I was concerned that all of my careful wiring and expenditure was at risk of corrosion from the high humidity conditions. Therefore I decided to fabricate a 'light shield' from 3mm perspex sheet. I checked the specifications and light transmittance is 92% - I could afford to lose 8% light in order to protect my hard work. The shield is simply a box-like structure of epoxy jointed perspex, mounted to the aluminium with clear silicone sealant. I left the threaded rods long, that come from the handles above and allowed them to pass through the perspex by drilling holes. This gives me options to attach anything to the rods in future, and they do not interfere with the light spread... Now the terrarium was safe and ready to start thinking about plants. I placed some eggcrate in the bottom, in order to allow me to have a 'reserve' of water in the bottom of the tank for stability, humidity and for the ultrasonic fogger to use... Here is the fogger in place. The eggcrate is elevated by a series of upturned 8cm net pots, which are rigid enough to hold whilst being fairly open to allow water to pass freely through... Following Tom Bennet's tutorials, I was able to introduce a Raspberry Pi system into the terrarium, constantly monitoring temp and humidity and allow for the use of autonomous mains sockets. Here is the 'powerhouse' (the raspberry pi)... It reads temperature and humidity via an AM2302 sensor, connected via CAT5 ethernet cable (placed well out of the way of the splashing ultrasonic fogger!!)... You can view live readings from my terrarium here... https://thingspeak.com/channels/149828 The fogger is connected to an Energenie RF controlled mains socket, which is triggered by the Raspberry pi every hour at one minute past, for a duration of six minutes (day and night). This gives a boost to humidity, yet is unobtrusive and dramatically extends the life of the disc in the ultrasonic fogger as it is effectively only operational for 144 minutes in a 24 hour period. The constant RH monitoring means that the raspberry Pi can be set to trigger the fogger based on a desired humidity range, but I don't think this is necessary for me at the moment. The last object I added to the system was a simple aquarium algae magnet, which sits permanently in the top left corner of the front glass. This allows me to wipe the front pane clear of any condensation if/when I want to be able to see clearly inside... That's the whole setup so far. It's been challenging at times but very fun and extremely rewarding to learn along the way. I am more than happy with the results and the effect already on the plants living inside. My next post will show the plants inside.
  25. 1 point
    What's disgusting about this matter is this seller as done this many times before and gets away with it . On top of this that seller is a sponsor of this forum and the moderators know about all this and done nothing to protect future buyers on this forum .