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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    The Florida Panhandle is one of the world's most important areas for biodiversity. This nine-day trip to the Gulf Coast states of Alabama, Florida, Louisiana and Mississippi was arranged to explore the longleaf pine forests. Historically, these ecosystems once stretched right across the South, nearly unbroken, from Virginia to Florida to Texas. Today less than 5 percent remains of the 90-million acre original system, which included open pine savannas with a lush understory of native grasses and groundcover. These forests host a remarkably diverse plant and animal community that includes some 300 bird and 2,500 plant species. Many of them depend upon a structure that is maintained by a frequent fire cycle (either natural or through managed-burns). Of particular interest, were the bogs and other wetlands that provide a home to carnivorous plant communities. Due to man's unfortunate presence (drainage/land reclamation, development for housing, mining and logging activities) several of the sites may represent the last remnants of these communities. Many of the sites were on stewarded land (e.g. Nature Conservancy) whilst others were not. No detailed location information is provided in this album. Additionally, the trip also provided an opportunity to view wetland birds, insects, reptiles etc. Unfortunately, flash-flooding and heavy rainfall associated with Tropical Storm/Hurricane Barry meant that several hiking trails were closed or impassable in Louisiana and Mississippi. Similarly, by the time I returned to Florida, water levels in Apalachicola National Forest and the prairies towards Gainesville had risen significantly. This meant that further opportunities to view additional sites was unfulfilled.
  2. 5 points
    Hi all, it has been some time since my last post with photos here. I have moved to a new house two years back, built some new growing spaces, improved my lighting systems... There is still a lot of to do (like a greenhouse), but the plants are currently growing fine, which I would like to share. I have three main growing spaces: grow tent with a 220 W led source, used only for the winter (the plants are otherwise in the garden) and two aquariums rebuilt for the plants, one for helis with 90 W led source and one with led stripes, circa 75 W in total. Hope you will like it. Adam The grow tent: Tray with tuberous sundews D. aberrans D. zonaria D. browniana D. squamosa D. hookeri D. erythrorhiza Among others, D. hilaris looks great this time of the year D. esterhuyseniae And flowering P. immaculata on a calcareous rock The aquarium with heliamphoras, they were recently flowering wildely (the aquarium is usually covered, the cover was removed during taking this photo): And the sundew aquarium. Both aquariums are in the basement and I have currently improved them with a cooling... a hose connected to the ventilation of the basement, which constantly blows cool air from the outside into the aquarium. The temperatures vary very nicely with about 25 °C during the day and slightly below 20 °C during the night. Some of the plants - D. chrysolepis, D. camporupestris, D. magnifica, D. villosa, D. spiralis, D. tomentosa var. glabrata... The succulent leaves of G. roraimensis This D. solaris is going to flower soon (but I have never got any seeds from it) D. meristocaulis - small, but growing D. arenicola D. kaieteurensis And D. hirticalyx - I do not know why, but this species stays always green in my conditions, never getting the deep red as in nature. Does it need so much more light than the other species? Or is it the clone which is in cultivation?
  3. 4 points
    Back in February I posted a few photos of the 2,000l carnivorous plant bog that I had sunk in our garden. What follows are a few photos of how it has grown over the past months. It still needs a couple more growing seasons to fill-in but the plants have put on a good show for their first year. Also completed, nine months after commissioning, is the pitcher plant sculpture that should help create year-round interest, even when the real plants are in their winter dormancy. I have high hopes for next year!
  4. 4 points
    Hi Rob, If only I was that talented! I commissioned a master blacksmith back in November to make the sculpture. Although we had agreed the design in general terms, he was unable to start making the sculpture until Easter. This was in-part due to demand for his time and partly due to COVID making a repair to a piece of equipment take longer than he'd hoped. He also wanted to see how the plants grow and their morphology, beyond what he could determine from books and photos: so we had to wait until an indoor plant was showing pitchers in all stages of development (about end-March here in Cambridgeshire)... Anyway, hopefully these photos taken by his wife will give you some idea of how the piece was made and constructed. It's galvanised steel so will weather over time and develop a patina that even up the tone... drainage holes at the base of each pitcher to prevent premature corrosion. I just need to recess the plate into the sleepers for a more elegant finish: with work and home-schooling, I just haven't found the time! Best regards, Howard
  5. 4 points
    Thanks. Here is my lovely D. modesta. Still waiting for my U. aureomaculata to open. So close now.
  6. 4 points
    Hi, I like to show you some pics of my tuberous Drosera. D. browniana D. collina D. erythorhiza D. lowriei, giant form D. aff. stolonifera, mini hills form
  7. 4 points
    Hi everyone, Recently I had the opportunity to travel to the USA to see sarracenias in situ. I would love to share some photos with all of you. My First location was Greenville Co. in South Carolina. Thank you very much ! Gustavo
  8. 3 points
    Due to social distancing and the closure of schools. I had lunch while working from home, looking over a few plants. Hope you enjoy them. I also noticed my Utricularia aureomaculata is about to bloom, so I'll post a picture of that when it does
  9. 3 points
    P.mariae P.vulgaris subsp anzalonei
  10. 3 points
    Hi all, I hope everyone is safe during these strange times. If you're at home, you'll have time to take care of your plants ;) As a professional gardener, I continue to work (our plants still need our attention!), with most my attention devoted to our beloved plants. Ironically, these dramatic times are beneficial for plants... Most of our projects are postponed (including the project of a new house completely dedicated to carnivorous plants...), and we could take time for botany and horticulture. As many of you are confined at home, I decided to take time this week end to post some pictures I've taken last week. I would like to show the result of a big project recently finished... Due to the theme, I hope you'll like it! The idea of a greenhouse dedicated to animals and plants' interaction is an old dream, and long-term endeavour. But we finally open this house in fall 2018, and I'm quite happy of the result :) Of course, it's not finished (and it'll never been finished), and I continue to improve it as I can (and the next weeks could be an interesting period for it). Animal/plants interactions exists since both group of organisms were appeared in Earth, are everywhere and led to remarkable co-evolution. Among many occurring interactions, we choose to present these through tropical ecosystem with these examples: - Carnivorous plants, and moreover Nepenthes. Nepenthes show really interesting co-evolutions with other organisms (bats, Tupaia, rats, termites, ants, bacteria, frogs, insects larvae, ...). We present also a small tropical peat bog with some Byblis, Drosera and Genlisea, but most carnivorous plants will be presented in another greenhouse, that we previously would like to open in June. I worked most of previous times to another new greenhouse, completely dedicated to carnivorous plants and their habitats. Hopefully we'll open it this fall! - Ant-plants. With many astonishing interactions, mostly in tropical ecosystems, myrmecophily is a really interesting subject, not too much known. It's sometimes approached in botanical gardens, but, in France, there's no example of such large display dedicated to this theme. - Pollination. It seems to be evident, but we would like to present it through "nice" examples: pollination by bats, lizards, birds, mice... - Phytothelmata. Another interesting interaction. For diverse reasons, some plants could accumulate water (or produce liquids). And diverse forms of life could grow in it. Bromeliads, Commelinids, Nepenthes, Bamboo among other. - Zoochory. Dispersion of plants by animal is an interesting subject. It could be external (exozoochory), internal (endozoochory), with double situation : diploendozoochory (when a carnivore eat a frugivore), and is trully important for long distance dispersal. We know the case of seeds, but it's also important for living plants, i.e. turions of aquatic plants by birds, or Tillandsia usneoides used for bird's nests. - Herbivory. The most common interaction (even if it's not really for the benefice of plants!). And we choose to show it with "defence" mechanism: sensitive plants, the egg mimicry of Passiflora sect. Decaloba and the pseudo-eaten leaves of some Ficus species, ie. F. politoria from Madagascar. As we show only plants, and animals are absent from the house, we had put some really showy pictures to illustrate our speech. And next: pictures! The entrance of the house with transparent plastic strips, with tropical forest layout printed. And a pergola with Nepenthes, so people enter in a tunnel made by Nepenthes lianas and hanging pitchers ;) On the left, it's a 1m3 pot with hybrids and cultivars, in aim to have always showy pitchers, and also to fill quickly the pergola. It's work well! And right, there's only "natural" Nepenthes species in a living Sphagnum bed. Mixed with Amorphophallus species, interesting for pollination features ;) You could see upper a lateral cork branch filled with living Sphagnum where I grow epiphytic Nepenthes: N. truncata, N. veitchii, N. zakriana in this pic. Another Nepenthes, and the pictures of well known interactions. I'm happy that we could buy these pictures to Ch'ien Lee, that's really showy! from left to right: Philautus in N. mollis, Tupaia montana in N. lowii, Kerivoula hardwickii in N. hemsleyana. On the ground: a mix of Nepenthes species, terrestrial orchids and "epiphytic" Utricularia : U. calycifida, U. cornigera, U. nelumbifolia, U. alpina, U. longifolia... A false tree with epiphytic Nepenthes: N. dactylifera, N. truncata, N. lowii, N. veitchii, N. vogelii, N. chaniana. I've put also N. merrilliana and N. sibuyanensis, even if they aren't epiphytic, cause their long tendrils may be cool at this place :) You could see also on the left Catopsis berteroniana and on the right Peperomia polystachya (which is supposed to be carnivorous following an recent study...). I'm a little bit reserved about growing terrestrial Nepenthes in this bed. If some species are looking well, many species die quickly after their introduction, showing decline a few month after plantation. It's interesting to note that the remnant and healthy species are mostly tolerant and easy growers : N. maxima, N. reinwardtiana, N. mirabilis, N. ventricosa, N. holdenii, N. neoguineensis, N. sumagaya, N. barcelonae, N. spectabilis, N. hirsuta, N. surigaoensis, N. albomarginata, N. bongso, N. rafflesiana, N. tomoriana... And many plants which die were "difficult" species: N. platychila, N. insignis, N. copelandii, N. ceciliae, N. hispida... On the left, you could see the small peat bog (I have to work in it, it's not happy after 1 year and an half of cultivation...), with N. bokorensis, N. gracilis. If I've time I'll take some additional pictures next week! In the foreground, N. bicalcarata, a nice transition from carnivorous plants to ant-plants. And now, some ant-plants! (if you are interested by ant-plants, please take a look to the post I made in the ant-plants forum: http://myrmecodia.invisionzone.com/topic/1271-new-greenhouse-in-nancy-bg-interactions-animalplants/) Cecropia membranacea, a nice ant-tree. Here with epiphytic Cactaceae Strophocactus witii. Albeit from a lineage really near Cecropia, the Brazilian Coussapoa dealbata (previously known as Cecropia dealbata) shows no adaptation to myrmecophily. It's used here cause I love this tree (and I cheat a little bit), and also a a support for false neotropic ant-gardens. At his feet, a clump of Maieta guianensis, a pretty myrmecophilous Melastomataceae rarely seen in cultivation. Another Melastomataceae from Guyanas : Tococca guianensis. I love particularly this plant and it's actually the most beautiful specimen I'd ever grown... Acacia cornigera with its nice hollow spines and beltian bodies in its folioles. Now, bromeliads! With a beautiful specimen of Brocchinia acuminata (this one is not carnivorous, but suspected to be myrmecophilous!) In the background, nice pictures of Nepenthes bicalcarata by Vincent Bazile in situ in Brunei! Another false tree made with cork, this branch is totally dedicated to ant associated Tillandsia. I'm particularly fond of these artificial trees made with hollow cork an a mix of pine bark and living Sphagnum. Here, I use it to show the high diversity of neotropical ant-gardens. I've put also two branches dedicated to Hydnophytinae. They look healthy here, in a sunny place, with high air movement. They grow fastest than in pot in the private greenhouses... Now, the biggest work of the house: a dripping wall made with volcanic rock. 3 months of work for 3 peoples! But I'm happy about the result! The first idea was to present myrmecophily on the left, and zoogamy on the right. So, most of the paleotropic ant-plants and asiatic ant-garden plants are here. But it's too wet for them, and it's not representative to have them in a wall. If I could, I'll build another branch in cork for them. Later... In the right face, I've put many flowering plants. Gesneriaceae, Orchidaceae, Bromeliaceae, Begonia... About 300 species of various groups! The idea is to have a nice wall with high diversity, but also to have all the time some flowering plants. And particularly with interesting features for pollination (birds, lizards...). I grow with some success some carnivorous plants in this wall: the miniature form of Nepenthes maxima, N. northiana, Pinguicula mesophytica, P. cubensis and some Utricularia. I'm a little bit disappointed, I was sure that most Utricularia could grow well in this place, but only a few are still alive, and are not so well adapted... I suppose that I have to incriminate the water quality: it's not always rainwater (we suffer from a really drought period last year, and during all summer, the wall was watered with tapwater), and I use some fertiliser for orchids. Some orchids are also in a cork branch here: And the Phytotelmata place! With A huge Alcantarea, Cochliostemma odoratissima, Nepenthes ampullaria, and diverse tank bromeliads. And the pedagogical boards! I've write the texts and ask many people to get nice pictures of animals living in phytotelmata in situ. You'll recognize a small crab of the genus Geosesarma in a pitcher of N. ampllaria above left, the spider Misumenops nepenthicola in N. albomarginata (both pictures by V. Bazile), and bottom right, a Philautus frog emerging from N. x harryana, by Ch'ien Lee. The place for zoogamy. The text and pictures refers to plants everywhere in the house. It take me so much time to find these picture, but wahou! These are so nice and so demonstrative! In this picture, you could also see on the left a branch with Vanilla (for zoogamy), and a bird nest build in our greenhouses by a local Turdus with our Tillandsia usneoides (for zoochory)! In the middle, Desmodium incanum, a nice Fabaceae with hooked fruits (very sticky!) that I'd mischievously put right in the middle of the path :p. On the right, several sensitive plants (for "defence" against herbivory). The well known Mimosa pudica, but also M. diplotricha, M. sensitiva, M. polycarpa, M. pigra, M. uncinnata, Biophytum sensitivum and B. sokupii. The hanging liana is Passiflora colinvauxii, also for defence. Zoochory board: And "defence" against herbivory board. That's all folks! I hope you enjoy this virtual visit during these strange times of lockdown Take care and stay well, All the best, Aurélien
  11. 3 points
    Last autumn I had a bog installed in the sunniest corner of our south-west facing rear garden. Having been a collector of carnivorous plants for many years this modest-sized bog garden now affords me to develop a more permanent display in the garden. At around 3.5m (long) x 4.2m (at its widest), the total volume of materials required to fill it comprised: 1,600 litres of peat; 400kg of horticultural sand (lime-free, of course), 400 litres of perlite. The compositional mix varies, depending on the intended location of the various plant types. Planting has started this weekend with 25x Darlingtonia californica, 15x Pinguicula grandiflora, 40x Dionaea muscipula with a further 25x butterworts, 35x Venus's flytraps, 65x sundews (including Drosera binata, capensis, rotundifolia, filiformis, tracyii, anglica), and 60x hardy pitcher plants (Sarracenia flava, flava var. maxima, flava var. cupra, flava var. rugelii, flava var. rubricorpora, purpurea purpurea, purpurea venosa and purpurea heterophylla and a few natural hybrids) to be planted later this month. Sympathetic bog plants that are non-invasive will provide shelter to some of the more delicate carnivorous plant species. On the raised railway sleeper platform at the rear, a specially commissioned 1.3m tall pitcher plant sculpture made by a master blacksmith will add year-round interest and a focal point for the winter months. If people are interested in seeing how the project develops, I will be updating this post periodically. Message me if you want details of landscaper, blacksmith and nurseries and stone/growing medium stockists and I'll be happy to share these. Really looking forward to getting this planted and for the summer to roll round!
  12. 3 points
    Hi all, Just wanted to share this Drosera rotundifolia I found growing on Bodmin moor in the UK. They were once more widespread here, but following a recent expansion of the A30 road, a long strip of the plants were destroyed, along with some bog orchid species. This photo is taken of a population that grows about 200m from the road.
  13. 3 points
    Some pictures of Drosophyllum 'in-situ' Location: Portugal, Mata da Machada and Santiago do Cacém Date:29/12/2019 and 30/12/2019 New Pictures added from Santiago do Cacém, date: 05/01/2020. Best regards, Cumprimentos / best regards, Nelson José Luís Gaspar Associação Portuguesa de Plantas Carnívoras www.appcarnivoras.org forum.appcarnivoras.org twitter.com/appcarnivoras instagram.com/appcarnivoras facebook.com/appcarnivoras facebook.com/groups/appcarnivoras
  14. 3 points
    I finally found my password so to celebrate this here are some pictures of tuberous drosera d.rupicola d.zonaria geante d.tubaestylis d.Prophylla d.orbiculata d.Magna X d.erythrorhiza var imbecilla d.Lowrie geante d.Heterophylla d.erythrorhiza d.Basifolia by jp
  15. 3 points
    Hi at all, every year this plant amazes me more and more, in this session the pitchers are becoming white, the green veins are disappearing and some picthers have a pink brushed on the edge of the hat: Ch Natale
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Fortunately its a capensis so is nigh on indestructible, how long have you had it? has it dried out? has it been over 30C? what water have you been using to water it? Anyhow, assuming its a physical manifestation rather than pests, remove the dead brown bits, stand it in a tray of rainwater/distilled/RO water till at least September about 25mm deep, give it every last photon of light you can, but not excessive temperatures and it will come back all dewey and green. Then repot in spring if you want/need to using a 50/50 mix of Sphagnum moss peat and perlite. Cheers Steve
  19. 2 points
    Hi. Yes putting a bit of water in nepenthes pitchers can help shipped plants settle down. Neps are not fussy and almost any plant feed is good at half strength. Standing in a bit of water is ok occasionally If you are away. Or try a tray of sand, stand on that and water sand well to the point of water logging , should last a while
  20. 2 points
    Hello everybody, Recently, I've been obsessed by all the tepuis Heliamphoras grow at and started to collect Heliamphora clones from different tepuis to collect them all one day. But I noticed something strange to me. In numerous articles I read about tepuis I haven't come across the name Apacapa tepui, which was strange, as it is my favourite location of H.exappendiculata. When I googled specifically "Apacapa" tepui I only got results showing web pages of sellers (like Wistuba) and grower that all have their plants labelled "Apacapa tepui", no literature or scientific articles at all. When you look at some of the online sources listing tepuis that support Heliaphora, like Distribution of Heliamphora or Heliamphora: the various ranges and tepuis, none of them lists "Apacapa tepui". There are two similarly named tepuis that are part of the Chimantá Massif where H.exappendiculata grows though - Apacará tepui and Abacapá tepui. I started to think that "Apacapa" must be a typo of one of those tepuis. Then I found the only literature on the internet that mentions Apacapa tepui - it is the Heliamphora exappendiculata description published in Carnivorous Plant Newsletter, available here. In the part of the article called "Specimens examined" there are, among others, mentioned herbarium specimens from both "Apacapa tepui" (Apacapa-tepui, 2125-2300 m, 13.04.1953 Steyermark No. 74888 (VEN, K)) and Apacará tepui (Apacara-tepui, 1900 m, 08.07.1946, Cardona No. 51648 (VEN)). This put Apacará out of the game and I thought that Apacapa is a typo of the right name Abacapá. In the above-mentioned article, there is a picture - a scan of one herbarium specimen provided by the New York Botanical Garden. So I checked the website of the New York Botanical Garden and found out it has a virtual herbarium (which is amazing btw)! So I searched for the herbarium specimen from that article (Apacapa-tepui, 2125-2300 m, 13.04.1953 Steyermark No. 74888 (VEN, K) and found the answer - the correct location of that specimen is Abacapá tepui. You can check for yourself Heliamphora exappendiculata (Maguire & Steyerm.) Nerz & Wistuba. That means that Apacapa tepui is, indeed, a typo of Abacapá tepui, at least in that article. So, unless Apacapa is a new tepui, that is not mentioned anywhere in the literature, to me "Apacapa" does not exist and all the plants in cultivation localised as "Apacapa" should be re-labelled to "Abacapá". It doesn't make a huge difference really, but what is the point of providing location information when it's adressing a non-existent place :) I tried to reach the authors via e-mail but so far without any more details on this topic. If you happen to know anything related to this, please, join the discussion :) Pavel Vrana
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Hi everybody ampullaria 'Lady Pauline' fusca platychila inermis see you soon
  23. 2 points
    Never fear! You do not need a chemistry book to understand this film. Showing a bunch of beautiful sundew species and hybrids, we explain really briefly and clear why particular chemical ingredients of the sundews are not only interesting as cough medicine for homeopathy, but also as traits for taxonomy, in a manner as comprehensible for laypersons as possible. The featured chemical analysis (TLC) is helpful for the description of novel species and gains an additional dimension by the fact that most true species produce only one naphthoquinone or none, while hybrids show the chemistry of both parents combined. That means, if the parents produce different quinones, the hybrid shows both of them and both parents as well as the hybrid can be distinguished chemically that way.
  24. 2 points
    Hi everyone. Plants are great to get relaxed a bit in these difficult times! Nepenthes mollis Heliamphora ceracea Heliamphora huberi Drosera tomentosa var. glabrata and Cephalotus 'Hummer's Giant' Macodes petola (orchid) Wide view Greetings, Florent
  25. 2 points
    ... and finishing off the main structure. Still bracing to complete followed by the doors and vents. And then the glazing
  26. 2 points
    Hi, Continuing with the chronicle of my trip through the southeast of the USA, second location was Baldwin co. in Alabama, to pay a visit to the famous Splinter Hill Bog. It was the beginning of April and the bog although lacking the exuberance of summer or autumn, had the discreet charm of the first spring pitchers of which some of us are devoted, and of course flowers. Recent controlled burn. Thanks to some fellow local aficionados, we were able to discover a meadow between long leaf pines, where controlled burning had not taken place. Here leuco pitchers were bigger. Thank you very much! Gustavo
  27. 2 points
    U. alpina x campbelliana
  28. 2 points
    Some pictures of Drosophyllum 'in-situ' Location: Portugal, Mata da Machada and Santiago do Cacém Date:29/12/2019 and 30/12/2019 New Pictures added from Santiago do Cacém, date: 05/01/2020. Best regards, Cumprimentos / best regards, Nelson José Luís Gaspar Associação Portuguesa de Plantas Carnívoras www.appcarnivoras.org forum.appcarnivoras.org twitter.com/appcarnivoras instagram.com/appcarnivoras facebook.com/appcarnivoras facebook.com/groups/appcarnivoras
  29. 2 points
    My offshoot is from Matthias Maier (Green Jaws). As far as I know, he never sold Carniflora plants as rare clones .
  30. 2 points
    Hello Some time ago I Found this nice population of Drosera intermedia. The site was quite small but there where many plants. The plants where growing in peaty sand near a pond. In the winter the whole location is probably very wet or partly submerged. I also noticed that the plants where much smaller then the plants I grow myself. They were only 3.5 cm high. Some close-ups: Overview:
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    Hello, Through this short article, I would like to share my method of growing pygmy sundews, which has begun to give quite satisfactory results in recent years. Most of these Drosera are endemic to Australia where they mainly occur in the western part of the country. The climate is rather subtropical with hot and dry summers, and fairly cool and humid winters, although temperatures are very rarely negative. The vegetative cycle of the miniature Drosera consists of two main phases. Plants develop carnivorous leaves especially in autumn and winter, when soil and air humidity is high and days are short. On the other hand, the gradual arrival of summer temperatures combined with the drying of the surface layers and the lengthening of days cause the plants to enter into dormancy. The plants stop the production of new leaves and form a small and more or less hairy bud at the top of the rosette. Reducing the leaf surface exposed to dry winds and intense sunlight on the hottest days prevents the cells from drying out. The return of rains in the autumn also coincides with the formation of small spreading organs called gemmae, which once ripe, are dispersed by wind and water over the surrounding areas. Weather conditions permitting, a root emerges within a few days allowing the propagule to anchor in the soil, a phase quickly followed by the formation of the first carnivorous leaves. This "natural cloning" is an effective and fast means of reproduction. Most species are easy to grow but it can sometimes be difficult to conserve some Drosera for more than one or two seasons. Watering is an important point. Pygmy Drosera require a very wet substrate during the growing season (autumn, winter and spring) while it should be kept barely wet during the resting period in summer. After many tests, I found that the use of tall pots (18 to 20 cm) greatly facilitated the management of substrate moisture and optimized the proper development of plants. Pygmy Drosera form roots that are remarkably long in relation to their size to exploit the lower layers of the soil that retain some moisture during the driest months. With such high pots, it is possible to leave a 4 or 5 cm depth of water in a large saucer to keep the substrate very wet during growth. The water supply can be reduced in spring by maintaining less than 1 cm or by letting the saucer dry completely from time to time in summer. The substrate must be fairly draining, composed for example of sand and peat (50/50). The ideal temperature range during growth (October to May in the northern hemisphere) is between 5°C and 20°C. Plants can occasionally tolerate slightly negative night temperatures, provided the condition get significantly warmer during the day. In summer, Pygmy Drosera can withstand temperatures above 40°C but care must be taken to ensure that the substrate never dries completely and pot is kept from direct sunlight. Pygmy Drosera enjoy full sunlight exposure. Artificial lighting devices such as fluorescent tubes or LED tubes also give good results, provided they provide sufficient power. The lighting duration should be between 12 and 14 hours in summer and between 8 and 10 hours in winter. Sincerely, Damien
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Hi guys... Below you can find 03 stamps that i've not insert here on this site... Serbia 2017 - Aldovandra - Malaysia 2018 - Nepenthes - Malaysia 2018 - Nepenthes X trusmadiensis -
  35. 2 points
    Both are correct in a way. Drosera (and in fact many other plants) quickly turn red if there's enough sunlight as a means to protect against being burned. At this point the plants are most definitely burned, despite the red colour mechanism, because they haven't seen light of such intensity for a long time. These leaves won't produce dew anymore. The new leaves, however, will be adapted to the strong lights, won't burn, but will still look reddish. The red colour goes away again as the light intensity diminishes. Usually, Drosera leaves will be a dark green, with red tentacles. It's all very similar to humans getting a tan to protect against the sunlight. If you stay in the sunlight for too long before your skin has managed to acclimatise (by tanning), you'll get burned.
  36. 2 points
    Catopsis berteroniana "near Santa Elena, Gran Sabana"
  37. 2 points
    It's not good to grow temperate pings inside long term.they should be outside in the cold weather for full And proper dormancy
  38. 2 points
    It is all ok... in the center you can see the hibernaculum... it is going to be dormant;-)
  39. 2 points
    Illegal Plant Trading It has come to the attention of Admin and the Moderators that increasing numbers of illegal trades in live plants are being carried out between forum members. The purpose of CPUK forum is not to facilitate such trades. Illegal trades are defined as those that do not meet legal requirements for plant import and/or export, either in the UK, USA or other territories. Trading with third parties for plants of suspect origin may also be included in this definition. Forum policy is that those caught engaging in illegal plant trading will be immediately and permanently banished, and evidence will be passed to the appropriate enforcement agencies. Please do not make the mistake of considering this an idle threat. We are always reluctant to banish members and consider it the final sanction. However, members have been permanently banned for illegal trading and this policy will be rigorously enforced. Any Sales & Wants posts that encourage illegal trading will be immediately deleted and warnings issued. Such posts are often thinly disguised and Moderators have thus far posted simple reminders of the legal requirements for plant import/export. Our response will be more robust in future. Where illegal trading is suspected, members will be requested to provide further information. Refusal to cooperate will be considered a tacit admission of guilt and reason for permanent banishment. If members become aware of possible illegal trading either now or in the future, please pass your concerns to the Moderators. All such information received will be held in strictest confidence. Why do we care? Primarily, concerns of plant health and protection of endangered species. Phytosanitary inspection is required for good reason. It is all too easy to unwittingly introduce unwanted pests and diseases to new territories. Equally, plants are CITES listed because they are endangered and therefore require protection. More than 95% of Sarracenia habitat has now been lost and other genera like the Nepentheswhere an entire species may only be known from a single location, are in even greater danger. That plant you just purchased on the quiet may have been ripped from the wild. Your cooperation and understanding is appreciated.
  40. 1 point
    You said the true another time... but I help my luck: I grow a single species of Mexican pinguicula: pinguicula gigantea good night, my friend!! I hope in future to see some photos of your other pinguiculas
  41. 1 point
    Argo you are the "lucky" one to have aphids land on your gigantea ...for me they always hide on young plants of smaller species
  42. 1 point
    Hello Dionaea "Aurora Borealis"
  43. 1 point
    Dionaea Traps Selectively Allow Small Animals to Escape. Our prey capture experiments show that Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula) selectively allow small animals to escape by a system of interlocking features that complement each other very efficiently. We documented ants of the species Lasius neglectus (length 3.5 mm) running continuously through open traps of Dionaea, established since more than 20 years outdoors in our garden. To achieve statistical relevant results, we did not only count, identify and measure captured prey. Other than in former publications, we counted also the escaped ants (15,000 after 28 days) to be able to calculate the risk for small ants visiting active traps. Surprisingly, their risk to get captured is 2.5 times lower (0.04%) than the risk of mortality by medical malpractice for a human in a German hospital (0.1%). None of the four single features of the interlocking "escape system" described here would alone be able to provide such an efficient sorting out of small animals. This film is based on the same named publication in Carnivorous Plant Newsletter (December CPN, Vol. 48/4 - On the release of this film in September 2019 in press): Dionaea Traps Selectively Allow Small Animals to Escape by Siegfried R. H. Hartmeyer, Irmgard Hartmeyer and Emeritus Prof. Stephen E. Williams.
  44. 1 point
    The bags do say suitable for aquarium so it should be good for CPs. Make sure it is silica sand and I should certainly wash it and finish with a rainwater wash before using to be safe. If you have a TDS meter then suggest checking after you have done your final wash. Total Dissolved Solids should be between 10 and 20 ppm after giving it a good wash. TDS meters can be bought cheaply on Amazon if you do not have one (£10 - £15). Rob
  45. 1 point
    I was observing a colony of Drosera cunifolia on table mountain with Drosera aliciae just meters away when I found an oddball that immediately stood out to me and I am assuming is a hybrid between the two. No other species were closer that 50 meters. The plant didn’t flower this year and i don’t want to wait till next year so does anyone have in their collection Drosera cunifolia x aliciae or a picture of it please? And if anyone has heard of this hybrid in the wild also please let me know. It’s very nice seems to have the best characteristics of both species and for this time of year when both parents look small and unhappy it looked like it was in its prime bigger than both parents. Probably some hybrid vigor there:)
  46. 1 point
    Hello all My name is Mischa and I live in the Netherlands I like to collect nepenthes and i work at a carnivores nursery (Carniflora) I've got 103 species Hope you will enjoy my plants in the future Greetings Mischa
  47. 1 point
    In next couple comments I'll add pictures from late 2018 and 2019 which were posted on Facebook but not here - shame on me! :) Heliamphora elongata "Flat lid" (Karaurin Tepui) M. Schach clone Not showing her true potential yet (not that this is a heterophyllous species) but the golden hue inside of the pitchers is the thing that always draws my attention. Heliamphora nutans "Giant clone" (Roraimita) A. Wistuba clone Very nice and robust grower but it clearly bears some H. glabra introgression which can be seen by the lid shape and glabrous inner surface of the pitchers. Heliamphora spec. Yuruani Tepui B Quite a mysterious clone / species / hybrid which looks like H. nutans but the H. nutans we know from Yuruani Tepui are completely different plants - much shorter and stouter. Unfortunately I have no further data on this clone. Does it really come from Yuruani?
  48. 1 point
    Hey, Nice plants, i hope the source for the "huge edwardsiana rooted Cutting" will not be the nature...
  49. 1 point
    My experience is that plants shipped bare rooted do often have the pitchers they arrive with brown off quickly afterwards. I have also seen the growing tip brown off as well, though not quite as often. It seems to be that the shipping process stresses the plant, and it reacts by sort of abandoning its extremities. That's why I always prefer potted plants to be shipped even if it costs a little more, but not many companies offer that option Les
  50. 1 point
    [...] So unfortunately I don't have space for a terrarium large enough to house a Nepenthes. You don't need a huge terrarium. You could get away with a smallish fish tank. I have a x hookeriana (ampullaria x rafflesiana) in mine and it is no slouch. Whenever it gets too big for its boots the 'scissors of correction' come out. I think it is going all 'bonsai' on me because it now produces smaller pitchers but lots of them. The tank is not very tall and I would estimate the plant is 30cm or so including pot. [...] So it does appear to be possible to create the correct temperature and humidity conditions for lowland nepenthes on a UK windowsill; using a thermostatically controlled soil warming cable and a plastic dome. However this is not a cheap solution. The soil warming cable cost around £30 and the thermostatic controller cost around £45. [...] The tank above is 90x40cm (3' x 1' 4") which isn't very big (compared to some on here). If I were growing the Nep alone then I could get away with a much smaller tank (2' x 1') . The heat is provided by a 'reptile mat' and a controller (won the mat in an auction and the controller was about £10 (both e-bay)). The tank was my old fish tank that got cracked. Wouldn't trust it full of water but it serves just fine full of peat and stuff. The lighting is LED (again e-bay) and, apart from watering and 'pruning', I just leave the whole thing alone. [...] But since my girlfriend moved in, the space I'm allowed to dedicate to carnivorous plants has been somewhat restricted ("houses are for people, not for carnivorous plants" she says). Rebellion is the only answer. If houses are only for people then we can get rid of all that non-essential decoration, gadgetry, art, nick nacks, photo's, bathroom products, non-essential clothing and shoes ... children, pets etc .. need I go on? Grab some stuff and make an environment that your pet amp. will like.