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I finally found my password so to celebrate this here are some pictures of tuberous drosera d.rupicola d.zonaria geante d.tubaestylis d.Prophylla d.orbiculata d.Magna X d.erythrorhiza var imbecilla d.Lowrie geante d.Heterophylla d.erythrorhiza d.Basifolia by jp

Hi!!! It it’s all o.k! It is a new root developing... this is of a different kind of roots: Drosera capensis form this ones when it becomes higher, and they help them to fiss well to the substrate

From time to time (depends on the place of the pot) some drops of water from above or under. And if you are successful you get:

I definitely agree in all of silverback´s growing condition! Healthy looking plants in really good light by the way .... Greetings Stefan

Plants are in square 13 x 13 x 12,5 cm. pots. During the growth always 1-2cm water at the bottom. Bone dry in summer isn't working for me.

Hey there, I just want to share some pictures with you. :) It was a really nice season for my plants. grows fast and get a cool colouration after some trees dies around the house, because millions of bark beetles... Pics are random from june to now.

Hello fellow Oregonian!! We live just around the corner from you on I-5 in Ashland! There really isn't any trick to acclimating flytraps. They do just fine in most cases being put straight outside. If you live in a sunny and hot place, which you don't, they should be slowly introduced to sun, but this time of year even that isn't necessary in most places. Over on the coast in Winchester Bay, I'd say just put them in a sunny windowsill until this huge storm passes and then try to get them outdoors as often as possible when the weather is above freezing. Good luck with the big storm coming tomorrow :)

Hello, Through this short article, I would like to share my method of growing pygmy sundews, which has begun to give quite satisfactory results in recent years. Most of these Drosera are endemic to Australia where they mainly occur in the western part of the country. The climate is rather subtropical with hot and dry summers, and fairly cool and humid winters, although temperatures are very rarely negative. The vegetative cycle of the miniature Drosera consists of two main phases. Plants develop carnivorous leaves especially in autumn and winter, when soil and air humidity is high and days are short. On the other hand, the gradual arrival of summer temperatures combined with the drying of the surface layers and the lengthening of days cause the plants to enter into dormancy. The plants stop the production of new leaves and form a small and more or less hairy bud at the top of the rosette. Reducing the leaf surface exposed to dry winds and intense sunlight on the hottest days prevents the cells from drying out. The return of rains in the autumn also coincides with the formation of small spreading organs called gemmae, which once ripe, are dispersed by wind and water over the surrounding areas. Weather conditions permitting, a root emerges within a few days allowing the propagule to anchor in the soil, a phase quickly followed by the formation of the first carnivorous leaves. This "natural cloning" is an effective and fast means of reproduction. Most species are easy to grow but it can sometimes be difficult to conserve some Drosera for more than one or two seasons. Watering is an important point. Pygmy Drosera require a very wet substrate during the growing season (autumn, winter and spring) while it should be kept barely wet during the resting period in summer. After many tests, I found that the use of tall pots (18 to 20 cm) greatly facilitated the management of substrate moisture and optimized the proper development of plants. Pygmy Drosera form roots that are remarkably long in relation to their size to exploit the lower layers of the soil that retain some moisture during the driest months. With such high pots, it is possible to leave a 4 or 5 cm depth of water in a large saucer to keep the substrate very wet during growth. The water supply can be reduced in spring by maintaining less than 1 cm or by letting the saucer dry completely from time to time in summer. The substrate must be fairly draining, composed for example of sand and peat (50/50). The ideal temperature range during growth (October to May in the northern hemisphere) is between 5°C and 20°C. Plants can occasionally tolerate slightly negative night temperatures, provided the condition get significantly warmer during the day. In summer, Pygmy Drosera can withstand temperatures above 40°C but care must be taken to ensure that the substrate never dries completely and pot is kept from direct sunlight. Pygmy Drosera enjoy full sunlight exposure. Artificial lighting devices such as fluorescent tubes or LED tubes also give good results, provided they provide sufficient power. The lighting duration should be between 12 and 14 hours in summer and between 8 and 10 hours in winter. Sincerely, Damien

When my capensis alba arrived in the post it was a sorry state. Dry Browning leaves and no dew. I had to put the soil back in the pot. I put it on the south facing window and kept it standing in water. After 6 weeks it was covered in dew and started throwing up flower stalks. So far 4 flower stalks. Its a good idea never to give up on these plants it seems

Just a thought. Try putting the plant and pot in a plastic bag to keep the humidity high for a couple of weeks or so and make sure it stands in about a half inch of rainwater at all times. However, remove the bag before 2 weeks are up if you see any sign of mould developing inside. D. capensis will naturally die back in the winter especially when cold, so has yours been exposed to cold conditions after repotting? Do not give up on it even if it loses all its leaves as after a winter cold spell, it will usually regrow from the base of the the plant or the roots so long as it has not been kept over wet while it has effectively been hibernating. Kind regards, Rob

It doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong. What kind of soil is the carnivorous plant mix? Make sure it doesn't have any added nutrients or isn't contaminated with salts. You could also check for pests.

Thanks to Mike for inviting me over today, had a great time. However, I need to polish up on the snooker front i think lol.

Both are correct in a way. Drosera (and in fact many other plants) quickly turn red if there's enough sunlight as a means to protect against being burned. At this point the plants are most definitely burned, despite the red colour mechanism, because they haven't seen light of such intensity for a long time. These leaves won't produce dew anymore. The new leaves, however, will be adapted to the strong lights, won't burn, but will still look reddish. The red colour goes away again as the light intensity diminishes. Usually, Drosera leaves will be a dark green, with red tentacles. It's all very similar to humans getting a tan to protect against the sunlight. If you stay in the sunlight for too long before your skin has managed to acclimatise (by tanning), you'll get burned.

Of all the Nepenthes I owned until now, the easiest (even more than the typical garden center N. x Ventrata) has been the N. Ventricosa red I purchased last year. I think it is one of those that Hampshire Carnivorous plants sells with the BE code 3772. The adult pitcher pic they uploaded doesn't match though, it looks like a trap from the N. Ventricosa Madja-As form (that in my experience it is a more fussy plant). The traps are more red with some speckles.

I've air-layered Nepenthes several times, and that would really be the same thing. All indications are that it would root, especially if you make an upward cut below a node, and put a bit of sphagnum and rooting hormone it it, and everything would keep living and growing.

So, I bought a Nepenthes x ventrata recently, and I have some questions about nepenthes vining. So, my questions are, if when my Nepenthes starts a vine I bury the vine in another pot with a growth point just below the surface, will it form a seperate connected rosette, will the vine stop or continue growing, and will the two rosettes be able to share minerals, water and such over the vine connecting them? Or will they just separate eventually?

Hello, Some Pictures from my highland Setup: N. villosa small but some nice teeth: N. x trusmadiensis, one of the nicest hybrids: N. edwardsiana going to open very soon: N. lowii: Small N. hurrelliana: N. truncata: N. veitchii x lowii. Whole Setup: Best regards, Henrik

Hello Everyone, I would like to provide and update on my attempts to grow a N ampullaria on a windowsill in the UK. I've always wanted to grow this plant. But since my girlfriend moved in, the space I'm allowed to dedicate to carnivorous plants has been somewhat restricted ("houses are for people, not for carnivorous plants" she says). So unfortunately I don't have space for a terrarium large enough to house a Nepenthes. A couple of years ago I thought I'd see whether it was possible to grow this plant on a windowsill. I bought a nice speckled ampullaria from Andreas Wistuba and simply placed it on a windowsill (that doesn't receive any direct sunlight) under some growlux tubes. The plant immediately stopped forming pitchers and as the months passed the rosette of pitcherless leaves was getting smaller and smaller. I suspected the plant was heading for a slow death. The next thing I tried was coiling a soil warming cable around the inside of the pot. This coil was attached to a thermostat which I set to 24C. Over the next few months the leaves slowly began to grow larger but still did not form pitchers. So then a few months ago I placed a plastic dome over the plant to increase the humidity. Here are some photos of my plant now. It responded very posittively to the increase in humidity and is now forming very nice pitchers. So it does appear to be possible to create the correct temperature and humidity conditions for lowland nepenthes on a UK windowsill; using a thermostatically controlled soil warming cable and a plastic dome. However this is not a cheap solution. The soil warming cable cost around £30 and the thermostatic controller cost around £45. I hope this post is useful for some other growers. Regards Mark

I have humidity above 90% and temps are controlled by a thermostat, connected to a chest freezer. Lighting is 6 HO T5s, on for 12 hours per day, and I use RO water, from my own system. I do add a few granules of Osmocote to every pot, about 7-10 granules per 3-4" pot. I added laterite to my northiana and rajah mix, today and hope to see some improvement in northiana. Of course, I'm growing northiana in warmer conditions, but I've had it for almost 3 years and it struggled at room temperatures and it was nearly dead, when it was given to me, having lost all of it's roots, from drying out, on the greenhouse, where it came from. It seems to be doing better, in warmer conditions and inside of a dome.

I just received, within the week, N.mikei, from Wistuba. The plant is small, by had a couple, tiny, nicely colored pitchers. All of the pitchers have browner and the newest leaf, second to the growing point also browned at the tip and was removed. The plant is potted in a mix of coarse perilite, osmunda, orchiata bark, coconut husk, long fibered sphagnum moss, and volcanic rock. All of the highland Nepenthes, including those received in the same shipment are potted in the same mix. Water is with Reverse Osmosis, from my 800 gal a day system, and temps are between 11.6C-13.8C, nights and 25.5C-28.3C days, though rarely the high end. Lighting is a 6 tube T5 fixture, on 10 hours a day and measured at about 8,000lux. Most on my intermediate growers color up wonderfully under 6,000lux, and my Drosera capensis, Mexican pings and other sun loving plants do fine under 6,000lux. Humidity is 100%, with a fan for circulation. A small number (5-8) pellets of Osmocote fertilizer was mixed into each 3-4" pot. Any ideas what could be the trouble or could this one just be more resentful of shipping and a new environment? So far the other Nepenthes have adjusted without complaint and the highland ant ferns and ant plants have shown new growth.

With bare-root plants it is just a matter of time and som extra caring during the first weeks (i.e. bagging for humidity) I have never had troubles or loses (knocking on wood) and all my collection has come unpotted.

I agree, I'd always opt for potted, but then I usually opt to repot, since the growing media is often not conducive to my watering methods. I notice hamata is losing the pitchers it arrived with, though much more slowly than mikei, while the rest of the plant and newly forming traps look fine. This is my first batch of highlanders, so I'm hovering like a nervous mother.

My experience is that plants shipped bare rooted do often have the pitchers they arrive with brown off quickly afterwards. I have also seen the growing tip brown off as well, though not quite as often. It seems to be that the shipping process stresses the plant, and it reacts by sort of abandoning its extremities. That's why I always prefer potted plants to be shipped even if it costs a little more, but not many companies offer that option Les

[...] So unfortunately I don't have space for a terrarium large enough to house a Nepenthes. You don't need a huge terrarium. You could get away with a smallish fish tank. I have a x hookeriana (ampullaria x rafflesiana) in mine and it is no slouch. Whenever it gets too big for its boots the 'scissors of correction' come out. I think it is going all 'bonsai' on me because it now produces smaller pitchers but lots of them. The tank is not very tall and I would estimate the plant is 30cm or so including pot. [...] So it does appear to be possible to create the correct temperature and humidity conditions for lowland nepenthes on a UK windowsill; using a thermostatically controlled soil warming cable and a plastic dome. However this is not a cheap solution. The soil warming cable cost around £30 and the thermostatic controller cost around £45. [...] The tank above is 90x40cm (3' x 1' 4") which isn't very big (compared to some on here). If I were growing the Nep alone then I could get away with a much smaller tank (2' x 1') . The heat is provided by a 'reptile mat' and a controller (won the mat in an auction and the controller was about £10 (both e-bay)). The tank was my old fish tank that got cracked. Wouldn't trust it full of water but it serves just fine full of peat and stuff. The lighting is LED (again e-bay) and, apart from watering and 'pruning', I just leave the whole thing alone. [...] But since my girlfriend moved in, the space I'm allowed to dedicate to carnivorous plants has been somewhat restricted ("houses are for people, not for carnivorous plants" she says). Rebellion is the only answer. If houses are only for people then we can get rid of all that non-essential decoration, gadgetry, art, nick nacks, photo's, bathroom products, non-essential clothing and shoes ... children, pets etc .. need I go on? Grab some stuff and make an environment that your pet amp. will like.

I think your going to need a bigger dome!! Brilliant! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably a bad clone of Homo girlfriendus extremus, consider the compost heap for this one and get one more adaptable to your growing conditions... Interesting experiment with the ampullaria!

So here I was standing in pound land when I came across these little guys. Guess what price they were? Lol Anyway, there is a lot of talk on the forum about windowsill nepenthes growing. This is my solution to it. So there are two in one pack with a 12cm pot so this is what I did. I began with a bit of digging around in the greenhouse to find these. I got the in dobbies sale around Christmas. There are 5 in a pack. What I did was took one of the dishes and pressed it Firmly into the bottom of the pot. This would act as a water tray to increase humidity. What I then did was get a 5 cm pot and cut it in half I then used the bottom part and glued it to the black tray Then I filled with water put the plant on the small 5cm pot and put the lid on. What do you think. Hope it helps Oliver Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you ever wished that there was a kind of “yellow pages” for CP suppliers while you were looking for something in particular, a certain genus eluding you and you wish you had an easy way of telling who stocks it? Well, look no further, I’ve decided that I’d dedicate a little of my time to putting together and maintaining such a list. It is not an exhaustive list of every single supplier but if I have missed a major player in the field that you feel should be included don’t hesitate to message me, though please remember, this is really supposed to be for small businesses that sell our favourite plants, not individual, private sellers. Also, if you spot errors or omissions in an entry, again, message me and I’ll do my best to correct them. You may have noticed that all the ratings sections are empty, this is because I want to get your ratings for them all. If you could all message me, either by PM or email on [email protected] with your experiences and perhaps a rating out of 5 for a supplier you’ve had dealings with I’d be most obliged. (All details were correct at time of writing, I’ll update them as necessary every few weeks or so.). Anyway, without further ado, allow me to introduce to you …