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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/17/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    It's not good to grow temperate pings inside long term.they should be outside in the cold weather for full And proper dormancy
  2. 2 points
    It is all ok... in the center you can see the hibernaculum... it is going to be dormant;-)
  3. 2 points
    This one is seed grown approx 7 years old. It grows freely outside on my balcony....
  4. 1 point
    Hello, I would like to share with you my little experience of growing Drosera of the Petiolaris group. These magnificent plants are found mainly in northern Australia. The climate consists of a hot period with sometimes very high temperatures (over 35°C) and a high level of soil and air humidity. It is during this period that the Drosera develop their carnivorous leaves. The other part of the year, temperatures are cooler (especially at night) but often remain above 10-15°C while daytime temperatures remain quite high (+25°C). In addition, rains are almost completely absent for several months and only slight humidity subsist in the lower layers of the soil. At this time, the leaves of the Drosera of the Petiolaris complex disappear and give way to a central bud, more or less woolly in appearance. This allows the plant to protect itself from the wind and sun during dry periods. To grow them in Europe, it is most convenient to keep them in a heated greenhouse or terrarium. I personally opted for this second alternative. For reasons of economy but also for better thermal insulation, my terrarium was made from extruded polystyrene. The upper part (the "roof") is of course made of glass to allow artificial light to pass through. Several lighting devices give very good results. In the past, I used classic T8 fluorescent tubes, which are inexpensive to buy but moderately efficient in relation to their electricity consumption. T5 fluorescent tubes, in my experience, give better growing results because they produce more heat and light than T8s at the same operating cost. Plants should be placed less than 30 cm (or even 20 cm) from the tubes in order to make the most of the tubes' power. For heating, waterproof silicone heating cables offer a very good solution, but it is also possible to use an aquarium heater placed in a large water container that will produce heat and increase air humidity at the same time. The disadvantage of this second solution is that the water level around the resistance must be checked regularly so that it remains well submerged. Watering is probably the point that requires the most attention. In summer, it is possible to let the pot bathe in a few centimetres of water. On the other hand, the substrate should be kept slightly moist during the rest period, but not completely dry. Tall pots are very useful because they allow the roots to develop properly, which are often quite long. They also help to keep moisture deep down when the pots are no longer immersed in water. The susbtrate consists of a mixture of peat (60%), sand (30%) and perlite (10%). We hope that this information will be useful to you. Best regards, Damien
  5. 1 point
    Looks like water fleas (Cladocera) from what I can tell. They don't really help the plant digest, but they aren't harmful creatures either. After watching the video clip a couple of times, I noticed something else: there's a small bug crawling on the outer right side of the leaf. I wonder if this is footage of its last living moments before it fell into the Sarracenial abyss.
  6. 1 point
    Hello all, I’ve grown orchids and various houseplants for a number of years and have recently decided that it would be a good idea to grow Nepenthes alongside them, it just so happened my local garden centre got a batch in a few weeks ago, unlabelled but I have what I think are ‘Gaya’, ‘Rebecca Soper’ and hookeriana, then I noticed Hampshire Carnivorous Plants was having an open day last weekend so went to that and bought myself a nice looking ventrata. After seeing the sheer variety of Sarracenia on show there I may have to talk my partner into letting me put up another greenhouse to keep a collection over the winter but that’s probably a job for next year.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Both are correct in a way. Drosera (and in fact many other plants) quickly turn red if there's enough sunlight as a means to protect against being burned. At this point the plants are most definitely burned, despite the red colour mechanism, because they haven't seen light of such intensity for a long time. These leaves won't produce dew anymore. The new leaves, however, will be adapted to the strong lights, won't burn, but will still look reddish. The red colour goes away again as the light intensity diminishes. Usually, Drosera leaves will be a dark green, with red tentacles. It's all very similar to humans getting a tan to protect against the sunlight. If you stay in the sunlight for too long before your skin has managed to acclimatise (by tanning), you'll get burned.
  9. 1 point
    Very nice and well grown plants!!! A pleasure to see them
  10. 1 point
    Catopsis berteroniana "near Santa Elena, Gran Sabana"
  11. 1 point
    Enjoyed that,Thanks.
  12. 1 point
    Yes it is, Gladys will be pregnant soon
  13. 1 point
    Looks like an alba, give it a few days in some sun and you will be able to tell. Cheers Steve
  14. 1 point
    I can,t see any red in the leaves or dewy glands,so it looks like an alba to me,they are very common and cheap.they arrive in most collections as hitch hikers,posting doesn't, t do drosera,s any favours either,it,ll pick up soon
  15. 1 point
    Nice plants from your collection
  16. 1 point
    That's a nice varied collection you have.
  17. 1 point
    Hello all, Recently (and luckily) purchased an aristolochioides and it appears to have suffered damage from sudden Winter cold or over-watering. Growth of pitchers has stalled with existing pitchers dying and budding pitchers stopping and curling back inward towards the leaf. Previously new growth appears to have brown/orange spots with brown regions emerging from the stem - see pictures (browning from stem has stopped advancing though). I re potted in clean (not sterile) dead, long fibre sphagnam (live may have been better in retrospect).12 hours of bright sunlight (not direct) and artificial light (3000K @ 3000 lumens) with distilled watering and constant 85%-92% humidity in a terrarium - temperature is at 25 degree with an appropriate drop at night. My key concern is that the dying pitchers and the presence of brown/orange spotting. Should I be giving it palliative care at this stage or euthanise it? Josh Picture 1 - Base of stem Picture 2 - New growth (also has spotting on the reverse side)
  18. 1 point
    Hello Some time ago I Found this nice population of Drosera intermedia. The site was quite small but there where many plants. The plants where growing in peaty sand near a pond. In the winter the whole location is probably very wet or partly submerged. I also noticed that the plants where much smaller then the plants I grow myself. They were only 3.5 cm high. Some close-ups: Overview:
  19. 1 point
    Wow! The near-black flowers are incredible. What plant are they from? Is that their actual colour, of is just the lighting? Good work!
  20. 1 point
    Afew pics of pinguicula vulgaris and drosera rotundifolia near Melvaig on the north-west coast of Scotland during a recent holiday
  21. 1 point