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No need. Big clumps of blanket weed grow in my big water trays!

Copper is good at stopping slugs. At least the ones I have in my garden dont ever cross copper. So I have put old copper pipes around my crop garden. I dont have a bog, but i imagine it makes no difference.

Sorry, I don't have a bog garden so I will let somebody answer that who has one ! Rob

Do you mean a bit like this A Rather Large Slug Sure they will damage your plants if given a chance. Try to keep them out of your greenhouse. I am no expert on slug deterrents but you can try something like slug pellets, coffee grounds, a prickly barrier, a beer trap or recycled wool waste pellets. Kind regards, Rob

what a dilemma! his 'n' hers greenhouses perhaps

Nothing I need this time, but I wish you well with your new enterprise

We sell mainly Sarracenia and other winterhardy carnivorous plants at https://www.vleesetendeplantshop.be. The webshop was originally only in Dutch but now it is also available in English and German! This way the entire website should be easy to navigate. The entire order process is thus available in Dutch, German and English. Although some texts are still in Dutch such as care sheets. French is still a work in progress. I am based in Belgium (company number 0676.997.939) and I ship within the EU with track&trace. Therefore I guarantee healthy arrival of plants. All Sarracenia are shipped bare-root with pitchers intact, in sturdy boxes, as long as you choose for a shipping option with track&trace. Shipment costs I have, what I believe, are pretty competitive shipping rates, for example: United Kingdom or France with track&trace €14,99 Germany, Netherlands, Luxemburg with track&trace €9,99 Free shipping if order amount exceeds:Belgium - €39,99NL,DE- €59,99FR,LUX,UK - €79,99 Rest of Europe - €119,99

Leider sehr begrenzte Auswahl :-(

This utricularia livida is from machadadorp in mpumalanga South Africa. It’s much bigger than the other livida forms I grow the flower in the picture is slightly smaller than usual. The leaves are also very different I don’t have a picture but they are short and wide. The flower also has a nice relatively strong honey scent.

I've haven't found the need for supports on VFTs but have used these for Sarrs... Support Ring, they're a bit flimsy and probably wouldn't be much use outdoors but seem OK in the greenhouse.

I've only been keeping carnivorous plants for a year or two. I decided recently to order some seeds for the first time. I've read lots of conflicting information. I've ordered VFT seeds, Sarracenia Flava seeds, Drosera Anglica seeds, Drosera Capensis seeds and Drosera Madagasceriensis seeds. My plan was to wait until October and plant the VFT, Sarracenia and anglica seeds outside in my cold frame and just wait until spring to see seedlings. But then I read online that VFTs naturally shed their seeds in early summer and aren't supposed to go through cold stratification. Will my plan for these work? If so, how should I store the seeds until October as they should be here in a few days? I thought about putting them in the fridge, but there's a chance the weather outside could still be a lot warmer than my fridge in October which may accidentally make them germinate when I put them into my cold frame. For the capensis and madagascarensis, I have a windowsill in my house the my pinguiculas and droseras seem to be happy on so I was just going to plant them straight away and put them there. Should this work ok? Thanks, Any advice is greatly appreciated.

You said the true another time... but I help my luck: I grow a single species of Mexican pinguicula: pinguicula gigantea good night, my friend!! I hope in future to see some photos of your other pinguiculas

Argo you are the "lucky" one to have aphids land on your gigantea ...for me they always hide on young plants of smaller species

Hello Dionaea "Aurora Borealis"

Welcome to our carnivorous plant speed contest! Four carnivorous genera qualified for our speed contest and they all give their best. Is Aldrovanda able to keep up even against the water resistance? How well does the famous Venus flytrap? Does the sundew that is usually regarded quite sedate have a chance at all in this competition? And what's the story with the southern bladderwort? Examined in detail with the help of time lapse as well as slow motion shots. English subtitles provided, enjoy! Special thanks go to Dr. Simon Poppinga and his team of the Plant Biomechanics Group of the University Freiburg as well as to Dr. Jan Schlauer for his kind support.

A special thanks to Derek Clavell Bates and Simon Lumb. Without their help none of these would have popped up!

Hi all, it has been some time since my last post with photos here. I have moved to a new house two years back, built some new growing spaces, improved my lighting systems... There is still a lot of to do (like a greenhouse), but the plants are currently growing fine, which I would like to share. I have three main growing spaces: grow tent with a 220 W led source, used only for the winter (the plants are otherwise in the garden) and two aquariums rebuilt for the plants, one for helis with 90 W led source and one with led stripes, circa 75 W in total. Hope you will like it. Adam The grow tent: Tray with tuberous sundews D. aberrans D. zonaria D. browniana D. squamosa D. hookeri D. erythrorhiza Among others, D. hilaris looks great this time of the year D. esterhuyseniae And flowering P. immaculata on a calcareous rock The aquarium with heliamphoras, they were recently flowering wildely (the aquarium is usually covered, the cover was removed during taking this photo): And the sundew aquarium. Both aquariums are in the basement and I have currently improved them with a cooling... a hose connected to the ventilation of the basement, which constantly blows cool air from the outside into the aquarium. The temperatures vary very nicely with about 25 °C during the day and slightly below 20 °C during the night. Some of the plants - D. chrysolepis, D. camporupestris, D. magnifica, D. villosa, D. spiralis, D. tomentosa var. glabrata... The succulent leaves of G. roraimensis This D. solaris is going to flower soon (but I have never got any seeds from it) D. meristocaulis - small, but growing D. arenicola D. kaieteurensis And D. hirticalyx - I do not know why, but this species stays always green in my conditions, never getting the deep red as in nature. Does it need so much more light than the other species? Or is it the clone which is in cultivation?

Hello, Through this short article, I would like to share my method of growing pygmy sundews, which has begun to give quite satisfactory results in recent years. Most of these Drosera are endemic to Australia where they mainly occur in the western part of the country. The climate is rather subtropical with hot and dry summers, and fairly cool and humid winters, although temperatures are very rarely negative. The vegetative cycle of the miniature Drosera consists of two main phases. Plants develop carnivorous leaves especially in autumn and winter, when soil and air humidity is high and days are short. On the other hand, the gradual arrival of summer temperatures combined with the drying of the surface layers and the lengthening of days cause the plants to enter into dormancy. The plants stop the production of new leaves and form a small and more or less hairy bud at the top of the rosette. Reducing the leaf surface exposed to dry winds and intense sunlight on the hottest days prevents the cells from drying out. The return of rains in the autumn also coincides with the formation of small spreading organs called gemmae, which once ripe, are dispersed by wind and water over the surrounding areas. Weather conditions permitting, a root emerges within a few days allowing the propagule to anchor in the soil, a phase quickly followed by the formation of the first carnivorous leaves. This "natural cloning" is an effective and fast means of reproduction. Most species are easy to grow but it can sometimes be difficult to conserve some Drosera for more than one or two seasons. Watering is an important point. Pygmy Drosera require a very wet substrate during the growing season (autumn, winter and spring) while it should be kept barely wet during the resting period in summer. After many tests, I found that the use of tall pots (18 to 20 cm) greatly facilitated the management of substrate moisture and optimized the proper development of plants. Pygmy Drosera form roots that are remarkably long in relation to their size to exploit the lower layers of the soil that retain some moisture during the driest months. With such high pots, it is possible to leave a 4 or 5 cm depth of water in a large saucer to keep the substrate very wet during growth. The water supply can be reduced in spring by maintaining less than 1 cm or by letting the saucer dry completely from time to time in summer. The substrate must be fairly draining, composed for example of sand and peat (50/50). The ideal temperature range during growth (October to May in the northern hemisphere) is between 5°C and 20°C. Plants can occasionally tolerate slightly negative night temperatures, provided the condition get significantly warmer during the day. In summer, Pygmy Drosera can withstand temperatures above 40°C but care must be taken to ensure that the substrate never dries completely and pot is kept from direct sunlight. Pygmy Drosera enjoy full sunlight exposure. Artificial lighting devices such as fluorescent tubes or LED tubes also give good results, provided they provide sufficient power. The lighting duration should be between 12 and 14 hours in summer and between 8 and 10 hours in winter. Sincerely, Damien

Some of the nicest vulgaris I have seen, and quite a range of colours as well in Scotland today.

Sarracenia flava at least has been shown to produce coniine, one of the toxic compounds which is found hemlock. Not sure if other sarra's produce it but I wouldn't be surprised with the extensive gene flow between them. Coniine is toxic to humans but I believe you'd have to eat a LOT of pitchers or lick the nectar of a lot of them to get a sufficient dose to notice. Given how many rotting bugs are in the pitchers on mine, I don't think I'd fancy eating any

A few days ago it came to our attention that a CPUK member had stated they had a Sarracenia cultivar S. ‘Waccamaw’ (which happens to be a crossing between two S. flava var atropurpurea plants) illegally imported into Europe. This member was subsequently banned from CPUK. The reason for the ban was two-fold. Firstly, no Phytosanitary Certificate was obtained. Apart from being a legal requirement, these inspections are needed for international trading to prevent the spread of pests and diseases (such as the Sarracenia rhizome boring pest). Secondly, all Sarracenia species are protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), with S. flava (and this was a flava) being listed under Appendix II. No export and import permits were obtained for this plant. The member admitted to it being smuggled in the mail. As a few members requested to be placed on a waiting list for this plant at the time, it is worth pointing out that it is not just the one plant that may be seized by the authorities and destroyed. The whole collection in which the plant resides can be seized, as can collections of people who have received a illegally traded piece. Please take a moment to think about that. Was it really worth that risk? CPUK has always taken a strong stance against illegal trading, whether a plant was removed from the wild or was reproduced by seed. The Carnivorous Plant Society has conservation at it’s very heart, and this also extends to hoping we can protect our territories from foreign pests and diseases. Let us all try to not give our hobby a bad name.

Illegal Plant Trading It has come to the attention of Admin and the Moderators that increasing numbers of illegal trades in live plants are being carried out between forum members. The purpose of CPUK forum is not to facilitate such trades. Illegal trades are defined as those that do not meet legal requirements for plant import and/or export, either in the UK, USA or other territories. Trading with third parties for plants of suspect origin may also be included in this definition. Forum policy is that those caught engaging in illegal plant trading will be immediately and permanently banished, and evidence will be passed to the appropriate enforcement agencies. Please do not make the mistake of considering this an idle threat. We are always reluctant to banish members and consider it the final sanction. However, members have been permanently banned for illegal trading and this policy will be rigorously enforced. Any Sales & Wants posts that encourage illegal trading will be immediately deleted and warnings issued. Such posts are often thinly disguised and Moderators have thus far posted simple reminders of the legal requirements for plant import/export. Our response will be more robust in future. Where illegal trading is suspected, members will be requested to provide further information. Refusal to cooperate will be considered a tacit admission of guilt and reason for permanent banishment. If members become aware of possible illegal trading either now or in the future, please pass your concerns to the Moderators. All such information received will be held in strictest confidence. Why do we care? Primarily, concerns of plant health and protection of endangered species. Phytosanitary inspection is required for good reason. It is all too easy to unwittingly introduce unwanted pests and diseases to new territories. Equally, plants are CITES listed because they are endangered and therefore require protection. More than 95% of Sarracenia habitat has now been lost and other genera like the Nepentheswhere an entire species may only be known from a single location, are in even greater danger. That plant you just purchased on the quiet may have been ripped from the wild. Your cooperation and understanding is appreciated.

Welcome aboard! Please be very careful, the hobby is VERY addictive!

Thanks, Scotcarnivorousplants - When I have several plants of the same species, the plants growing in different conditions, not only light, some plants grow only in the greenhouse, and some only under artificial lighting (fluorescent Silvania Grolux). The differences in the pictures may result that photos were taken in different lighting conditions - sun or high pressure sodium lamps - which in the evening light to plants Now some highland Nepenthes (the day max 21, the night 15/16). Nepenthes spectabilis (Gunung Sibuatan, Sumatra) Nepenthes spathulata Nepenthes talangensis Nepenthes sibuyanensis x aristolochioides Nepenthes vogelii Nepenthes robcantleyi Nepenthes tentaculata Nepenthes ramispina (Peninsular Malaysia) Nepenthes platychila Nepenthes petiolata Nepenthes lowii Trusmadi Nepenthes jamban Nepenthes jacquelineae Nepenthes hamata

Hey CP-fans! In April I had the chance to explore into the Sierra Madre range on the Philippine main island of Luzon. This region is very poorly known biologically, and rarely visited. After riding into the remote Casignan River valley on a rural jeep, the locals in Barangay Lipuga were really surprised to see the first foreign tourist that had found them ever...I got a warm welcome and a place to sleep in the new Barangay hall. The next day was spent on a 7.5 hours hike to the summit of Mount Bintuod (ca. 1935m asl), where we encountered a healthy population of N.ventricosa: dry season toll watching out of an emergent Dacrydium tree on the summit Dendrobium yeageri was abundant in the mossy forest view over the Casignan Valley and the Sierra Madre range towards north-east. Note deforestation and burning of the lower slopes. I think Mt. Bintuod is the highest peak in this range, but cartographers seem to have neglected the Sierra Madre so nobody can tell for sure. We climbed down the next day, taking a detour to see the ~30m Gumaniko waterfall: Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and this is what I beleive a Grammatophyllum, can anybody tell more? Found growing on rocks on a dry ridge at around 800m On the way out, I could also verify a roadside population of N.alata, with the typical looks of northern Luzon forms. regards, Mathias

Braintree, Essex

I'm from sunny Essex. Thats the North Eastern part of London for those geographically challenged persons! For the CP's its good for sunshine but RELATIVELY low for rainfall as the UK goes!