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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/02/2015 in all areas

  1. Cooking for your plants Buster?, that's taking it to another level !
    2 points
  2. I too feed my nep and sarra's with flies although I have upgraded from swatters to battery zappers. Endless hours of purile entertainment chasing flies around the flat, not before the verbal advice/ warning 'Leave now or die' of course. Some of the larger flies require a couple of zaps before spiraling into the ground leaving behind a definate crispy odour in thier wake.
    2 points
  3. Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) Heliamphora ciliata H. Midoxa and H. nutans growing epiphytically
    1 point
  4. So I've finally taken the plunge and managed to acquire an allotment plot within 0.5 miles of me. Lots of work to be done with it, but I'm keen to get started, and thankfully right time of the year to clear stuff and get it ready for my 'spring' expansion. Now question time, does anyone have experience using allotments for growing CP's? What advice would you give me to start with? I'm also in the market for setting up either a greenhouse or poly tunnels to really get my growing space sorted. I've seen some really good ideas on here, so any advice is welcome. I'm just really happy to have something big to commit to and look forward to developing it :)
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. Hi I use Provado insecticide on my sarracenia to control a variety of pests with no ill effects. The wasps will have absorbed a minute amount of insecticide. If you are worried, I'd try feeding one plant and see what happens - I suspect all will be OK. cheers Dennis
    1 point
  7. Just split off the VFTs today. Made 3 into about 20. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. Nepenthes looking good today, so got the camera out for some quick shots. lowii x muluensis ventricosa x aristolochoides jamban aristolochoides x hamata x Exotic Lady macrophylla, mantalingajanensis, x trusmadiensis, x trusmadiensis lavicola Richard
    1 point
  9. I thought I would share what I have done with the water butt I recently purchased. http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55843&hl= 1: Rainwater input from downpipe. 2: Air from aquarium pump (located inside flat). 3: Overflow from filter returning to water butt. 4: Overflow from water butt to waste water drain. 5: Gravity flow from filter to leant to plastic covered greenhouse type thing. The small black bucket (painted to slow algae growth) seen atop the water butt has a plastic bowl, with small holes drilled in it, inserted in the top and trimmed level with the top edge. Through the bowl, the base of the bucket and the lid of the water butt is fitted a rigid plastic pipe extending 2/3 the depth of the butt (approx 1 metre). The air feed tube from the pump decends down this rigid pipe stopping approx 50mm from the end of the pipe. The rising air inside this rigid pipe draws water up and into the bowl of which is then filtered by draining through a filter medium. I am using scouring pads as my main concern at the moment is grit and lichens, although with a little adapting I see no reason why sand or activated charcoal or any filter medium that addresses your specific woes could be used. Once the filtered rainwater reaches the level of the outflow pipe in the resevoir under the filter bowl it is gravity fed to the lean-to house. Below is a picture of the pump (I used 1 outlet of a dual outlet 3watt adjustable pressure aquarium pump) £12.99 Rainwater kit under £20.00 Sundries(tubing etc) £11.00 please excuse the mess, the pump sits in the corner of the room with my shredder and whatever banal, vacuous comunications these multinationals insist on repeat sending me despite requests to be removed from mailing lists (Rant Over, Promise) I worked out that using a digital plug in timer a 3w device running for 3 mins in the morning and 2 mins in the evening (ie 5 mins a day 365 days a year) will cost approx 1.2 pence per annum (I know, I had to sit down after I saw that) 1.2p per annum leaves plenty of CP buying power !! If anyone wants any further details or I have not made things clear, please do not hesitate to ask.
    1 point
  10. Place a pot of peat in water and it will become 100% saturated. If you then remove the water it will evaporate from the top and become drier and drier. But then as you replenish the water it will wick upwards again and you will still have a portion of the peat at 100% saturation. Maintaining some sort of 75% saturation level would be very difficult. It works in winter because you don't need to have any water in the tray because you have hardy any evaporation (or small amounts in autumn which does lead to a damp 75% or 50% saturation level) So I'm just saying you cannot avoid 100% saturation at some point in summer simply by the actions of keeping the plant watered. The advice might sit true if you are trying to avoid the roots sitting in the water, by means of a taller pot.
    1 point
  11. Basically, it's just a 24 hour timer that opens a solenoid for 15 minutes each evening. The solenoid feeds a 5mm irrigation pipe with cheap plastic misting nozzles. Straightforward really. Here's a few quick shots of d. capensis alba growing out of water in amongst my neps. And it's currently in flower... Seems to be doing fine. It was the first experimental plant to be planted up and hence the biggest so far. I'll photograph the drosera and dionaea when they're larger, as they're not much to look at yet being small plants and only transplanted over the past few weeks/months. That's if they survive of course ! (and if someone reminds me about this thread in the future ).
    1 point
  12. It's no where near finished yet, I still have the roof and the doors to do but couldn't resist setting it up just to get an idea. I'm going to add a shelf about three quarters of the way up for some smaller growing plants, being wary of not casting a shadow on the plants below. The unit measures just shy of 6ft wide , 6ft high and just over 2ft wide Once finished I should have enough material left to build another which I think I'm gonna do so I can spread the plants out better.
    1 point
  13. The construction of the baskets is very simple Coated wire fence and a large basket for plant growing Baskets are suitable primarily for Nepentes I did also a special version for Cephalotus, after painting polyurethane foam imitates the rocks
    1 point
  14. Or spent my giant dionaea? the post has been removed t he? 47 mm
    1 point
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