Anyway, already sown and watered. Now fingers crossed and two to three weeks of waiting in anticipation!

Hopefully there is a follow up.

Seeds are Nepenthes adnata x (ventricosa x xTrusmadiensis).

Voilá.

However, rather than risk poor viability, shall I sow these Sarracenia seeds now, or wait until they've been stratified and sow them later this year?

I'm from Germany and quite new in this forum. There for I'm not sure, if it's the right channel. 

I have some N. lowii pollen available. 

Does anyone have a female in flower? Seeds 50/50. 

Greetings Lukas 

Do you proceed the same (dosage and duration)? If not, how do you proceed?

Thank you for your help.

Regards.

Back when i got into CP's and had several drosera growing, i read of a lot of people using glass sand in their mixes to aid drainage, because glass is inert. So i went out and bought a small 5kg bag of "horticultural grade" to try, which if i remember, was quite expensive at the time. I also used it as a top dressing because it looks quite nice when the sun catches all the different colours of the glass.

Anyway, enough waffle, here's the link...

http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-recycled-glass-paving-sand-225kg/35711_BQ.prd

As i say, just a headsup in case anyone's interested. £2.74 for 22kg. I would've thought it be fine after a thorough rinsing before use.

Diss or discuss at your leisure

I’ve read that Darlingtonia seeds like to be frozen into ice cubes in the freezer. Does anyone have any experience doing this?
 

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

I've ordered VFT seeds, Sarracenia Flava seeds, Drosera Anglica seeds, Drosera Capensis seeds and Drosera Madagasceriensis seeds. 

My plan was to wait until October and plant the VFT, Sarracenia and anglica seeds outside in my cold frame and just wait until spring to see seedlings. But then I read online that VFTs naturally shed their seeds in early summer and aren't supposed to go through cold stratification. Will my plan for these work? If so, how should I store the seeds until October as they should be here in a few days? I thought about putting them in the fridge, but there's a chance the weather outside could still be a lot warmer than my fridge in October which may accidentally make them germinate when I put them into my cold frame.

For the capensis and madagascarensis, I have a windowsill in my house the my pinguiculas and droseras seem to be happy on so I was just going to plant them straight away and put them there. Should this work ok? 

Thanks,

Any advice is greatly appreciated. 

Trouble is im loosing them. Ive only got 4 left that might make it a bit longer and a few more seeds might be shooting roots now but im worried ill loose them.

Ive kept adult vfts on n off for years and they seem a doddle compared to the seedlings. 

Whats your opinion on light. Should i leave them in good humidity in full sun (its been pretty hot in uk lately) or do you think strong sun can cook them ?only use natural light in a cold frame but if hot i open the frame up

 I've read the odd comment here and there about this, so thought I would give it a go! Both rhizomes had a good number of roots, but no grow points. I tried the two different ways I've read about.

First one, S. Flava:

Rhizome potted 1 inch below soil level. First signs of growth appeared 4 weeks ago (Apologies for the bad picture):

And now:

Second one, S. Excellens:

Potted with a little Rhizome exposed as you normally would:

I put on a little SB invigorator yesterday. Is it best to leave them out of a baggy now? Could anyone offer a little advise?

Thanks

Neil
 

Two scenarios: The flower has dropped all its pollen, or a few months down the line the Sarr was unsuccessfully pollinated.

 At this point is there any benefit, or not even to cut the flower Off? 

I have been growing Cephalotus in the UK for over 25 years now but still no expert. I have done some Googling and there is often debate over what bit of the plant is which. For the purpose of this post I am referring to both leaves and traps as leaves. I have taken leaf cuttings in the past which you can do without disturbing the mother plant so much. I get around a 80-90% strike rate. However due to now living in a flat I don't have much windowsill room I don't take leaf cuttings anymore.

I have a mother plant that I have had for ages and she was in a 4 inch (10 cm) and she is now in a 7 inch pot (18 cm).  I take cuttings when I repot. I mainly take crown divisions which I remove from the outer rim of the plant. Now when I say crown I mean a rosette of leaves attached to a structure that is creamy white to brown (which I shall call a rhizome) that is usually below the potting medium. Now sometimes this "rhizome" in a bigger plant can be dark brown and sometimes a bit hairy and partly above the potting medium. In both the cases the cutting may have roots, or may not. When I say "roots" I am referring to the thinner parts of the plant below the "rhizomes" usually the same colour. Now then I have this year in January I had 8 crown divisions all of which have taken and a few have put out some new growth.

As a few bits fell off I tried to take three "root" cuttings and put them horizontally in a pot covered by a centimetre of potting medium. All three have struck and have popped small leaves above the surface. I now wish I had taken pictures but here is one I found that I think make my ramblings clearer, it is on the website below. On this website it talks about root cuttings but it then refers to them as rhizome cuttings interestingly.

https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/australian-pitcher-plant/

Any thoughts? I would appreciate any suggestions but a botanical slant would be good.

Keep yourselves safe and happy growing

Peace Adam

I have a Female lowii x tentaculata in bloom. Does anyone have pollen available to make some interesting mix?

 We can share the seeds 50/50 :)