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  2. Hi Les go to the Carnivorous Plant Society website at www.thecps.org.uk and have a look at the growing guides.
  3. Last week
  4. I don't know how to display the videos anymore. Several months ago, I referred to this song (movie: a war movie without battle scenes) when I discussed with a friend about the historical issues that are so complicated that Japan has not yet come up with any ideas for solutions. For some reason, I've been listening to this song in mourning for the last two months. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnoGiLDGneY Original https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AS_hGzkoQY As you know, on the right is David Bowie. extended https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDyERx4xsaU The left half of the body is David Bowie. Piano version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4LFWP9GZVc Ryuichi Sakamoto himself is playing the piano.
  5. I repoted it today. Mixture is around 40%perlite 60%spaghmum moss (dead) Does it look okay? Yellow or crispy leaves are something I am not sure about. It could be from the springtails and stinky bacteria, or maybe some condition. There is the the old pot attached too. Is it ok if I still keep it? THere is some utricularia I would like to observe. Edit: (Adding on second photo_
  6. Hello, find all the plants in my collection here. email : [email protected] Youtube : Valentin Carnivores i love this areolata ! X Areolata ‘Black Pearl’ and X Areolata ‘Fegatone’
  7. I use battle fungicide with great sucess and 0 harm... tebuconazol 0,02% I hope this help you
  8. Hi Guy Thank you for your advice and help with this. I will start leaving them in the greenhouse except the Nepenthes. I am watering them with distilled water. and have started to just keep them damp. I think I have a lot to learn, but worth it in the end. Cheers for your help Les24
  9. These are essentially small living plants. No need to store them. Best to plant them now. You may find this video interesting. Guy
  10. Welcome Les All except the Nepenthes should be Ok in the greenhouse over winter as long as the temperature doesn't get much below zero Celsius for too long. The Nepenthes won't tolerate such low temperatures over the winter, so keeping them indoors is best. VFTs are particularly hardy and I've had them frozen solid for a few weeks in winter and still bounce back the following spring. Amazing! Watering should always be by filling the tray with distilled or rain water during the summer and keeping the plants just damp over winter. Hope this helps. Guy
  11. Now that I am retired and walking round a garden centre. I thought I would try and keep some carnivorous plants. I went a bit mad or maybe a totally mad and brought 6 plants. one Pinguicula Tina. Two Drosera capensis. Two Nepenthes monkey cups. One Venus flytrap. I have an unheated greenhouse that I have been putting them in the day and bringing them into the house at night apart from the Pingguicula Tins which I have keeped in the house all the time. I have re-potted them into deeper plastic pots and just water them with distilled water. Now this is where I need your advice on how to take care of them over the winter. I have put some photo's of the plants for you to see. Than
  12. So this summer I had 5 plants. At the peak of summer I was watering them every 2 days and apparently it wasn't enough because I lost 3 of them. The remaining two plants I watered every day and they survived. My media is mostly mineral so what worked for other growers (ie watering less) didn't work in my conditions. It was interesting to observe that they shrank to almost half their size during the hottest months. Little dew (althought they kept catching) and they lost their upright claw-like form. Then we had a week when there was very strong morning dew (everything looked wet like it had just rained) and they almost doubled in size with big droplets of dew and went right back to their upright form. It was amazing to see how they reacted so positively to morning dew. Here they are now 3 months later.
  13. Thank you, I do have a space that I can make available for my plants that will need a dormancy period, so I will get that done soon.
  14. In my experience: keep them warm, lots of light, air current (no stagnant air or too much humidity), very wet (pot standing in water like sarracenia). Also almost all mineral media with or without just a bit of peat seems to work best. This is until they grow about 6 leaves and then they don't need to sit in water, you can just keep them moist like a house plant, but don't let them dry out.
  15. I'm located in Canada. I received some hibernacula/ gemmae of P. Grandiflora from Europe today and I'm not sure if I should start the germination process now or store them for later. Also, what's the procedure for storing them?
  16. dionea71

    My carnivorous plants

    All my greenhouse-grown carnivorous plants
  17. Yellow sulphur is available at most garden centres. With the shorter daylight hours and decreased light indoors you will find you will get more of the mould growth with growing indoors, i have this problem as i grow some of mine indoor at present. Do you have anywhere you can put them outdoors say in an unheated porch as the darlingtonia definitely needs a dormancy period and the draught from being outside should help keep the mould at bay.
  18. Well, it surely has been an interesting journey these past few years. Learnt a lot, and started getting into more challenging plants as I went along. Here are a few recent pics of the collection. https://flic.kr/p/2mCYEH9
  19. Ok , will do so. What about the utricularia? Should I scoop them with a spoon or utensil, or also wash the roots?
  20. Peat-based substrates are horrible, just wash well the roots and repot them. Watering from above is always a good idea and I'd advise you to do so at least occasionally.
  21. Hi, I recently got one of these.. So, it started out okay for the first week or so, everything was normal, and the sundew continued producing dew. Today I decided to water it from the top instead of the bottom (Not sure if that is ok with sundews...) and realized that there were around a hundred tiny little white worm-like bugs (I think they are springtails) floating around. And, the soil smelled like sulfur. I suppose that's because the soil was 100% peat moss and it was only bottom watered. I washed out the soil with distilled water until the water wasn't a yucky shade of brown. The two sundews seem fine, I will attach photos later (My phone camera "conveniently" broke at that time), but the bottom layer of leaves is yellowing at the ends. But, the newest leaf and two coming in seem fine. Do note that the new growth had little brown marks, what I assum is Humic Acid buildup, which was temporarily fixed by the washing.... THe many utricularia subulatas in the pot are thriving and partying, producing more leaves then ever, probably from feasting on the little bugs... So here is where I need your thoughts and ideas on: - Should I repot the sundew out of there? If so, should I wash all the roots off? - If I do repot it, there is quite a bit of moss and utricularia I would like to save with it, should I do the same? Or can i keep small bits of peat moss with them to preserve the moss and utricularia? -Should I do anything about the sulfur bacteria? I am thinking of just moving all the utricularia into a salad container with good draining soil , and throwing away the old peat moss mix that smelled bad... Thanks for your help..
  22. They are kept indoors on a sunny windowsill, with the window open as often as possible. I tried looking for Sulphur powder on Amazon,. unfortunately most were unavailable.
  23. Are they outside but covered just to keep the rain off them? I have used yellow sulphur powder in the past but with only a 50/50 success rate along with giving them more air flow. Other one I have used, again along with improving air flow around the plants was fungus clear ultra. The second one was used only once on a sarracenia and did help but they are tough plants
  24. Hi, I've read that Sulphur based fungicides are best for carnivorous plants, but there aren't any available near me. I found a spray bottle online, it contains Trifloxystrobin and Tebuconazole as the active ingredients. Are these safe to use on Carnivorous plants? The mould on my plants is growing on my Darlingtonia californica, and on the soil of my Pinguicula grandiflora. My other plants look happy, but I will keep an eye on them to be safe. Thank you
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