This is a very interesting article. I really struggle with ordinary Nep cuttings. I have been told that plants growing under lights are more difficult to strike from cuttings, maybe to do with the wavelength of the tubes, which are different to daylight.
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Nepenthes air-layering photo guide
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Started by
gardenofeden
, Feb 06 2005 21:36 PM
#41
Posted 14 November 2008 - 21:09 PM
David Ahrens
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#42
Posted 03 April 2009 - 23:15 PM
Pedro Batalha
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A big THANK YOU to Gardenofeden, for allowing me to translate this topic into portuguese, and using the images, in order to post it at PCBR!!
Here is the link to the new topic, for anyone who wishes to take a look (at the topic, or at the PCBR forum):
http://www.forum.cli...4946.html#71521
See ya!
Here is the link to the new topic, for anyone who wishes to take a look (at the topic, or at the PCBR forum):
http://www.forum.cli...4946.html#71521
See ya!
#43
Posted 17 April 2009 - 03:51 AM
Gold3nku5h
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I dont know if it was covered or not, but some things that may help...
Im not sure how big the leaves are, but if you dont remove the leaf, it should root faster.
If there is a substantial 'new' plant above where the roots come its unecessary.
Also, if you were to imagine the circumfrence of the stem to be someones back, it would be
best to scratch the hell of out them with your fingernails.
Thats supposed to be a visual for a good way of air-layering, borrowed from air-layering tree's
basically, you have a few scored area's and a few 'bridges' of the cambian layer to supply the
top part of the plant.
Im not sure how big the leaves are, but if you dont remove the leaf, it should root faster.
If there is a substantial 'new' plant above where the roots come its unecessary.
Also, if you were to imagine the circumfrence of the stem to be someones back, it would be
best to scratch the hell of out them with your fingernails.
Thats supposed to be a visual for a good way of air-layering, borrowed from air-layering tree's
basically, you have a few scored area's and a few 'bridges' of the cambian layer to supply the
top part of the plant.
Edited by Gold3nku5h, 17 April 2009 - 03:55 AM.
#44
Posted 18 April 2009 - 18:34 PM
Mags
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Great post- I actually understand air-layering now 
!
!
#45
Posted 22 August 2011 - 12:20 PM
gardenofeden
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the photo links were broken and have been fixed.
#46
Posted 22 August 2011 - 14:32 PM
Sue
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I’ve been successful with air layering on other types of plant. A split match or cocktail stick is good for keeping the cut open.
If using hormone rooting powder, only apply it to the cut and make sure it doesn’t get onto the leaf joint where the roots will grow from. It helps plants to root but will kill the roots if they come into contact with it. This rule applies to all other plants so I can’t see that it will not apply to Nepenthes too.
With other types of plant, air-layering is usually done in spring/summer, does this apply to Nepenthes too or are they not fussy?
If using hormone rooting powder, only apply it to the cut and make sure it doesn’t get onto the leaf joint where the roots will grow from. It helps plants to root but will kill the roots if they come into contact with it. This rule applies to all other plants so I can’t see that it will not apply to Nepenthes too.
With other types of plant, air-layering is usually done in spring/summer, does this apply to Nepenthes too or are they not fussy?
#47
Posted 09 September 2011 - 23:18 PM
maxxima
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Thank you very much! That was very useful for me as well.
#48
Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:32 AM
Daniel G
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Getting a better Sarracenia collection.
I have a 3 or 4 foot nep with no pitchers at all.
Hopefully if i do this the cuttings wil make a few pitchers for me instead.
Hopefully if i do this the cuttings wil make a few pitchers for me instead.
#49
Posted 11 February 2012 - 16:03 PM
RL7836
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I followed this procedure & air-layered my N. jamban that had started to vine. Not long after starting this procedure, the plant started two new basal shoots - originating from the potted root mass. After 4-5 weeks, I noticed that the main vine (the one I was air-layering) was completely black for the 1st 4-5" (even though it had added at least 3-4 new leaves following the procedure). The plant just up & aborted the primary vine after I started to work on it. I checked & there were no developing roots in the air-layered LFS.
Lets hope the N. hamata, done at the same time, has more success....
=========
13.06.12 edit - the N. hamata developed roots after ~5 months.
Lets hope the N. hamata, done at the same time, has more success....
=========
13.06.12 edit - the N. hamata developed roots after ~5 months.
Edited by RL7836, 13 June 2012 - 14:11 PM.
#50
Posted 03 March 2012 - 21:57 PM
BrassLeaves
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This is fantastic! I'm always looking for new methods of propagation. It seems like it would be more successful than cuttings as well. I've never tried this technique on anything other than woody trees, but nepenthes seems well suited for this. Thanks for the step-by-step guide, I'll be putting it into practice for sure.
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