Problem with Algae
Posted 17 August 2008 - 15:56 PM
Posted 23 August 2008 - 15:48 PM
I think I've solved the algae problem. The tank I had the plant in smashed in my hands while I was cleaning it out. I now have a bucket of Aldrovanda sitting in the garden!
Posted 23 August 2008 - 18:31 PM
Posted 23 August 2008 - 21:09 PM
Posted 23 August 2008 - 22:51 PM
Wow, that is the most unusual way I have ever heard to get rid of algae ...
but your plants look really good, it seemed as if the algae did not harm them.
Good luck for your next one -
Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:39 AM
Nice to see a pic of them, we dont get that many Aldrovanda pics so its definitely good to see
Posted 04 September 2008 - 01:08 AM
Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:43 PM
Actually, is seems to be OK at the moment. I have the bucket partially covered in the garden, and I don't seem to have had too much of a recurrence of the algae!!
Posted 27 September 2008 - 19:40 PM
Posted 04 August 2009 - 21:48 PM
I've had success combining Slack's advice with another approach:
Cut down the light:
No direct sunlight at all. Normal, indirect room light is sufficient for Aldrovanda, and really slows down the algae.
Filter your water to remove algae and spores, or use RO water:
I use kitchen paper and an old kitchen funnel, but someone suggested a winemaker's filter normally used to extract yeast, which sounds ideal.
Keep the tank covered with a clear lid:
This keeps out algal spores that inevitably drift around in the air.
Clean your plants before introduction to the tank with a high concentration of Daphnia:
They like algae and don't damage the plants.
Clean the strands as best you can, then put them in a small tank with filtered water and a lot of Daphnia.
Leave for 48 hours. The Daphnia have nothing to eat except the remaining algae on the strands, and can get into all the tiny places which we can't. The Aldrovandra also gets a good meal!
Keep Daphnia in your tank:
To clean up any algae that gets in. Slack says wait 2 weeks after setting up the tank, to allow the microflora and -fauna to develop, before putting Daphnia in.
For some reason, Daphnia don't seem to like my Aldrovanda tanks, and I don't think it's just because they get eaten! ;) I find corpses in the corners of the tanks. I have to keep their numbers topped up. It could be the acid, peaty conditions that don't agree with the animals, or the lack of algal food, of course!
I started doing this in March, and my tanks have had little algae all spring and summer: It never seems to get out of hand. I hope it works for you!
Other people have noted that the acid conditions required by Aldrovanda won't suit snails, as their shells are made of calcium carbonate and will slowly dissolve! I tried Planorbis (ramshorn) snails which are specialist alga eaters, and they hated it; they kept trying to leave the water, and eventually died out.
Edited by Vic2, 04 August 2009 - 21:58 PM.
Posted 05 August 2009 - 10:56 AM
Posted 05 August 2009 - 15:03 PM
Edited by rsivertsen, 05 August 2009 - 15:31 PM.
Posted 06 August 2009 - 02:22 AM
I can only relate my experiences:
The Daphnia culture I buy commercially has a small percentage of rotifers, Paramecium spp, etc. anyway. I'm now trying to breed my own Daphnia, in my Azolla tank (more on that later).
One of my Aldrovanda cultures is Swiss - coming from a colony in an artificial container established under greenhouse shelving for several years, I understand - and the other is semi-tropical, possibly Japanese, both green forms. My Swiss culture has been going quite happily (15cm strands) for over a year, admittedly with serious algae problems till I listened to Slack and other growers and developed the scheme given above; the sub-tropical culture has been going about 7 months, with algae under control and 20cm Aldrovandra strands. The latter seem to grow while I watch 'em... ;)
I'm sure they'd love a pond, and maybe they'll stop growing and die out in vitro, but so far it doesn't look like it! :)
If anyone can improve the in vitro scheme I've worked out so far, I'm all ears...
My next trial will be with Slack's suggestion of floating fern (Azolla caroliniana) as a companion plant. The Daphnia in my pure Azolla culture seem rather happier than in my Aldrovanda tanks, and I'm hoping there will be a knock-on effect.
Anyone got any Typha minima that I can have, for future tinkering?
I'll report back with the results, of course ;)
Posted 06 August 2009 - 13:43 PM
I've observed them do some amazing things in this pond. They can even withstand a dry spell and can survive being out of water for weeks at a time. They can even grow up right out of water, onto a hummock, or muddy embankment, "crawl" across the damp ground and find themselves on the other side! The tragedy is that they have an incredible winter fatality rate of about 98% or more. Even in protected, and optimal conditions, 50% winter losses is actually within normal loss rates according to Lubomir Adamec. My pond gets hammered with migrating ducks and Canadian geese who have nothing better to do all day long but to gobble up all the dormant turions they can find which are rich in starches in the beginning of the winter, and rich in sugars in the early spring when they re-emerge. Almost every year since they've naturalized in this pond, I've written them off for dead and gone, but a few manage to find sanctuary in dense Juncus and Carex hummocks safe from the ravenous feedings of migratory birds, turtles and several other critters, and re-establish a population from less than 50 plants some years. - Rich
Edited by rsivertsen, 06 August 2009 - 13:58 PM.
Posted 06 August 2009 - 22:49 PM
Thanks for the advice, Rich.
I'm envious of your pond, and even the migratory ducks!
The best wild bird I have seen at close quarters is the European jay Garrulus glandarius, which I've held during measurements for conservation studies. (The beak and scaly clawed feet are fearsome and have caused nasty injuries - you can clearly see why birds are descended from carnivorous theropod dinosaurs - but this bird is highly intelligent and lies quietly in your hand if you talk to it nicely) :)
Doubt it'll work on hungry ducks, though ;)
I've tried Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis) as a companion plant, but I can't clean the roots enough to prevent it introducing algae into the setup. Where I've managed to keep the algae at bay for a while, the Aldrovanda shows no obvious benefit from the Phragmites' presence. In fact, the former seems to grow more slowly. I suspect that the Phragmites, whose shoots grow vigorously, is extracting too much of something necessary for Aldrovanda growth from the water. But the damn' algae is unaffected. :-\
I find it hard to believe that Aldrovanda obtains all of its nutrients from captured prey; if it did, it wouldn't need to be green and photosynthetic. And the Czechs say that HCO3- (bicarbonate ion) in the water is necessary for good Aldrovanda growth. Therefore, Aldrovanda must obtain some nutrients from its water. Algae will grow in pure RO water kept in the sun, so algal control by reduction of aqueous nitrogenous and other nutrients with companion planting, IMHO simply doesn't hold water. (Please excuse the pun, I couldn't resist) ;) Companion plants may inhibit algal growth and/or support Aldrovanda in other ways, of course; as you say, introduction of HCO3- into the water may well be one of them.
I've never used a pump or a CO2 generator, but the plants grow well nevertheless. Btw, I rechecked my Swiss culture, and I've told you a fib - the strands are 20+cm long - sorry!
I agree with you that isolating one organism from an ecosystem and expecting it to flourish is unlikely to work; it's working out which of the interdependencies are most important for Aldrovanda growth that I'm interested in. E.g. orchid seeds are now routinely germinated and grown in tissue culture, as the critical requirement for the presence of certain mycorrhizal fungi has been worked out.
Incidentally, Slack advocates the use of Azolla in Aldrovanda tanks specifically to reduce the incident light and so control the algae! :) Personally, I'm hoping it will help the Daphnia too.
Anyway Rich, I'll happily swap some of your hardy garden Aldrovanda for some of my in vitro plants, if the paperwork and permits are feasible! PM me if you're interested.
Edited by Vic2, 06 August 2009 - 22:52 PM.
Posted 06 August 2009 - 23:57 PM
I never said nor implied that they get all their nutrients from their food, but since they are rootless, they have to absorb it in somewhere else. I suspect that by churning up the silt and detritus as I do when I walk around in there, it covers the entire strand completely; some of these mineral nutrients wind up inside their traps along with some small pond life, and get assimilated with the digestion process inside their traps. The areas where they grow the densest, are teaming with pond life, thousands of little critters swimming, crawling, and buzzing around per cubic inch. The carbonates result when the CO2 (released by respiration of those large monocot roots), react with water and these minerals, ie. CO2 + H2O => H2CO3 (carbolic acid), with one or both of the hydrogen units getting released depending upon the valence of the mineral in the clay/silt to which it has bonded.
Funny thing is that algae seems to go into decline in my pond when the Aldrovanda are growing well. I really haven't figured that one out yet, but it's probably due to the host of zooplankton creatures it seems to attract that feed on it before it overwhelms everything else. I wouldn't bother too much with washing out any algae from the roots of Phragmites, or anything else. Once the Aldrovanda kicks in gear, it may just disappear.
It's amazing to see this pond become so loaded with Aldrovanda by the end of the year, millions of them, and then to see less than 50 plants survive in May of the following season. I've even seen robins and blue jays grab Aldrovanda strands right out of the pond, presumably for nesting material. If they experience about 2 weeks of 90F temps before summer solstice (June 21), they will flower profusely mid-July for a few weeks.
The rate of new bud formation is directly linked to how much prey it has captured and eaten. Those strands that drift out in deeper water where the population density of the zooplankton is much lower than in the shallow areas have far fewer new branches and buds; some grow nearly 20 cm without a single new bud, while the ones in the shallows have multiple branches every few inches, (about 4 to 5 whorls) 2 and 3 new buds sometimes.
Keep me posted on your results. - Rich
Posted 20 March 2010 - 18:16 PM
Erythromycin (please use the powder in capsules or tablets ground. Do not use syrups, chewable tablets or solutions!) at a dosage of 250mg for every 100 gallons of tank water, reapplying it every day dose for 3 to 5 days.
After treatment change 50% water.
The cyanobacteria should disappear within 1 or 2 weeks.
The cyanobacteria have a somewhat gelatinous appearance and a strong smell of mold.