Koen C.

Full Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Koen C.

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

165 profile views
  1. Thanks, The moss outside is kept without cover, but I do cover with a net, hoping to keep the birds off. (Last week, birds at last started stealing my Sphagnum, leaving a whole tray empty and leaving me mad at every bird in my garden. I knew it would happen once, but nothing had happened so far). So now I try to keep the moss safe from birds, but not covered with plastic or glass or anything. It's kept in full sun, both inside or outside. If kept in too much shade, or covered, it might grow a bit faster, but not as compact as I'd like. Partial shade gives nice greener growth, but I like it more compact. I water on top of the trays, or when in pots I stand them in a tray of water with the water level kept around 7 cm under the surface. That is just an easy way for me to keep them wet constantly. During winter they were even submerged for a period but they don't mind. During hot weather, I do water from above, but the Sphagnum indicates it clearly by showing white spots if it's getting dryer. From time to time, I do flush out the pots or trays, flooding them with water as attempt to remove nutrients and dirt. In the trays, when I water, I let the water level rise pretty high, until like 2cm from the heads. So the pots are kept in standing water, the trays are being watered from the top and almost flooded. I must say that there are people on the forum who actually do have experience with Sphagnum moss, and I hope they chime in to show their cultivation methods. I only just started and don't have that much experience yet.
  2. Is it possible that the plants get too muchy light? The growth looks really compact and a bit scorched. And like Manders said, Nepenthes prefer more open compost and usually are not kept soaking wet contrary to some other cp's.
  3. Seems like a sporophyte isn't long-lived. Only two days after I noticed, some of them have already exploded and dispersed their spores.
  4. For the first time, i see sporophytes on some of my Sphagnum. The spore capsules are so small I barely noticed them. They grow on a thin species that ocassionaly manages to keep itself alive in a pot of a more robust species of Sphagnum. I think there are only 3 strands alive in that pot. I'm not sure but I assume the species is self fertile, i would be surprised if I had both a male and a female clone of that plant. I'll try and germinate the spores, just as experiment. Would be nice to see the moss develop, but I'm pretty sure it's not easy to make germaninate. Any tips are welcome!
  5. Thanks for the reply, I was probably wrong. I also didn't know that I should call them fillidia, never thought about it that leaf-like structures on a gametophyte were not homologuous to leafs on a sporophyte, so thanks for pointing that out. I might try to figure out what species it is then. I think it's commonly in cultivation and I thought it distinguished itself by the curved leaves, giving it a spikey appearance. I don't know anything about right nomenclature to describe plant morphology, but you get what I mean :) But indeed, the outdoor grown plants don't really show that so it may not be squarrosum like you say. I'll have a look at leaf forms and try to find the real identity
  6. Hey everyone, I'd like to start this topic off with my modest Sphagnum cultures. I love the plants a lot and hope to expand to a collection of a lot of different species. The species of which I have most moss is this one. I think it might be S. squarrosum. It's a fast grower and I have enough to harvest every once in a while when I need top dressing for plants like Darlingtonia. I keep them in two different conditions, one tray inside on a south facing windowsill (picture 1 and 2). You can see the moss is really green here and grows less compact. There are no brown tips on the leafs. These D. capensis seedlings are one of the few survivors in there, the other Drosera and VFT seedlings got overgrown completely. I also keep a portion of this moss outside, in two pots. Surprisingly they don't mind to be in a normal pot, as long as they stand in water. I love how they grow over the edge. The plants are more brownish, grow compact and have brown dots on the leafs sometimes, but nevertheless they seem to be healthy to me. I tried to flush the pots with water, thinking that nutrients cause the brown spots, but it doesn't help. It's probably due to the sun/UV. I'm not sure. The second species I'm trying to get bigger amounts of, is this red one. Feel free to tell me the ID, I haven't had the courage yet to start going through a determination guide. It has a tendency to turn completely green when I take cuttings of it, and turning into dark purple/red after a month or two. Some say it's sun, lower pH, or reproductive structures. I'm not sure what it really is that turns this plant red. This species grows not as fast and is a lot smaller, the branches are smaller and less robust then the first species and the heads are much smaller too. I harvest it and use it for cp seedlings like Cephalotus or Nepenthes, hoping the Sphagnum protects them against fungus and cyanobacteria. I chop it up before bringing it on the sowing medium, so it doesn't grow too fast at the start. It looks really beautiful , but that's just me :) I probably have 3 or 4 other species that I'm trying to separate out of the other moss and hope to keep them apart in different pots, outside. If anyone is interested to share species with me, I'd love to expand my collection!
  7. Yes, more specifically a branch, not a full head cutting or stem cutting. It's really tiny (you have to pull it with a forceps) and I didn't think it would grow but it did. Thought it might interest other people too :)
  8. 4 weeks ago I tried a little experiment on the regeneration of Sphagnum moss after reading an article (Sobotka, 1976, Regeneration and vegetative propagation of Sphagnum palustre as factor of population stability) I'm not sure if I can post links here but you can google the article. Usually to propagate Sphagnum, people use the heads (capitula) or stem cuttings, and they start growing reasonably fast, making it easy to expand a Sphagnum culture. But this article states that branches also easily regenerate in vitro (those smaller parts emerging from the main stem, with determinate growth, they have a specific length, the tip of the branches stops growing after a while contrary to the main stem). I decided to give it a try and pulled some young 'branches' out of the capitulum of a species of red sphagnum, hoping to find an easy way to multiply this nice plant. I planted them on top of dried (dead) sphagnum and kept it soaking wet and covered for high humidity on a sunny windowsill. Many of them are growing now, I didn't count them so I don't know what percentage, I count around 15 growing branches, they were taken from only two capitula I think. The first picture shows a branch after I pulled it from the Sphagnum plant, the second picture shows a branch 4 weeks after taking the cutting. You can clearly see where it started to grow. The thin part had grown before I took that cutting, and the thicker part is new growth. Notice that these pictures are magnified, the little plants are smaller then an adult Sphagnum plant. I should have taken the pictures with a reference for the size. I will update the thread once the little cuttings start looking like an adult Sphagnum plant. I love Sphagnum in general and I really hope more people share how the care for it, what species their general knowledge about the plant.
  9. Close to Gent, I met you last year at the DroseraVZW, I bought a small Darlingtonia from you :)
  10. Thanks for the kind words, the equipment is Nikon D5000 body and a macro lens, Tamron 90mm F2.8 macro 1:1. I didn't use a tripod for these, that's why some are a bit out of focus.Most of these pictures are cropped by the way.
  11. Hi everyone, this is my first attempt here to post some pictures I took last year. I'm attempting macro pictures, and as I still have a lot of room for improvement, tips are welcome. I will post some pictures of whole plants later. My plants survive on a south-facing windowsill or outside, as I lack decent equipment for like a greenhouse or terrarium. Most of the plants do really well in summer, but suffer a lot in winter due to low light. I've been growing cp's since spring 2013, because I was completely amazed after seeing a timelapse of a developping Nepenthes pitcher. I had been collecting other plants before that, so you can guess what happened next. A cp madness with no end and I'm just getting started :) Best regards, Koen D. regia prey B Balance of death in D. aliciae Flower stalk of D. aliciae D. regiae N. robcantleyi detail Cephalotus in the sun D. adelae flowers. I love this flower stalk and the way it unfolds. Crabspider, always in a good mood to pose for pictures. It lives the whole summer on my H. heterodoxa in the Belgian sun.
  12. As Richard Bunn said, your plant will probably pitcher if you put it in the sun more. For the easier Nepenthes like the hybrid 'ventrata' should low humidity not be a problem, the plants can adjust to that and they certainly don't need a terrarium in order to pitcher well. Also your plant will grow more compactly in the sun, now the basal shoots look like their stems are too long due to low light. That makes pitchering more difficult because the rosette stage pitchers easier then the vine. Best luck with it
  13. Because the other conditions might not allow that. Don't get me wrong, I have much respect for you and your growing conditions, they are like I said the best conditions. For Nepenthes I can speak out of own experience (and Heliamphora won't be much of a difference as they can rot too), you can hold them in standing water if your other conditions allow it, but I would say to a beginner to not keep them as wet because a Nepenthes plant can rot. So prudence is required if you are new to that plant. Don't take this personal, this is supposed to be a constructive discussion with opinions, nothing else.
  14. I won't often enter dicussions like this, but I feel like what maiden is saying is very logic and there may be a misunderstanding. I share the opinion that many cp's from beginners die from wrong watering rather then soil mix or humidity. With watering I mean that the way they water their plants doesn't suit their conditions. I speak from experience from other plants then Heliamphora but that doesn't matter. I think that if you guys grow the Heli's in standing water and that fits in your other conditions, that is perfect. Your plants thrive so your conditions are very good. I just think it might be dangerous to recommend beginning growers to grow their Heli's in standing water. Unlike a Sarracenia, Heliamphora plants can rot (I know it's not my own experience with Heli's, I just get what Maiden is saying from my experience with other plants) A Heli might rot if he is kept in a humid environment, together with only partial sun (instead of full sun) together with standing water together with a mainly peaty mix. I understand if a Heli is in standing water and in full sun (or much light) with some ventilation, not in terrarium or when the water is allowed to transpirate fast (like loose soil mix, sphagnum, net pots...) or with some orchid bark at the bottom of the pot, they will be very healthy. It's all a matter of viewing all the conditions together. In this regard, I would personally recommend new growers to wait for the soil to get 'moist' before making it wet again. But if I had the right conditions I would maybe try to grow them in standing water. Personally I have had many plants that died from almost never watering them, yet they rotted from being too wet because they were in a dark area (regular houseplants though) All i want to say is that the standing water is the extremum from watering condition in which the plants can thrive if they have right other conditions. Otherwise they might rot, so nobody should just 'keep the plants in standing water' without changing their other conditions to that. Just my opinion though.
  15. 6 sold? Is that really possible? This seller is making fun of the good work that some guys around here deliver to the cp community