Steve Stewart

Drew, In the case where the Dionaea traps are complete and on a single petiole the traps close separately, when triggered. When I have had traps that are partially separated, the whole mass triggers and closes, when triggered. I would think there have been instances where Dionaea mutations may cause the traps to be completely non functional. Mantrid, I hope all Dionaea growers think as you do! If it hasn't been done by now, it can't be done. I enjoy doing things that haven't been done yet! The tools that make growing Dionaea and other plant rarities "easy" to grow, have not been around that long. RO, plastic, Tc, the Internet, e-bay, cpukforum etc... are all recent and valuable resources we seem to take for granted. Take care, Steven Stewart

How and why some mutations take place may be environmentally stimulated in a specific part of a plant. Often variegation (or other environmentally induced variation) of leaves takes place in an easy to propagate plant, and is then propagated in mass. Mutated material can then be carried forward by selectively separating and propagating the mutated material. This variegation (or unique separation) may only be found on some parts of the propagated material, but still become abundant or valuable enough to propagate. Over time, many horticultural oddities become stable cultivars, if propagated and properly written up in descriptions for accepted for publication. This simple method of selection is common in horticulture. Just because the selected material cannot be propagated by standard Tc methods doesn't mean it can not be, or is not commonly done! If DNA and it's environmental expression in plants was exactly "like a plan of a building" then all leaves of plants would be exactly the same. Like the cute little monotypic Dionaea muscipula! Take care, Steven Stewart

Thank you! What a beautiful specimen! Take care, Steven Stewart

These are thumbnail photographs with arrows of the original Dionaea 'Bigmouth' that Bob shared with me that produced tri traps. Take care, Steven Stewart

I can't compete with your double trap, but I think it is worth attempting to breed such things! This is a thumbnail photograph of a Dionaea 'Bigmouth' that I originally got a start of from Bob Ziemer. The original plant produced a couple of strange traps and one that was a "tri-trap". I started the tritrap leaf and this year the youngster put out one double trap! If enough people select for this type of mutation who knows what we may end up with. Click on the thumbnail to enlarge the photograph. Take care, Steven Stewart

Zlatokrt, Drosera tracyi can withstand frost, it is from the panhandle of north Florida, USA, where below zero c. temperatures occur every winter. Here in Central Florida the climate is more tropical than in the north part of this state. It seems that Drosera trayci is just less cold hardy than D. filiformis. I don't know if Florida's D. filiformis is as hardy as the forms found north of Florida.

I have grown large numbers of Drosera tracyi (Diels) Macfarl. in Central Florida, in a greenhouse and outside. I have taken leaves this species D.t. for cuttings in the fall and even the very small plantlets went dormant during the shorter days of winter. Large plants of D. tracyi can be pushed to start a few weeks early in the spring, but my plants all went dormant at the same time in the fall. All of my attempts to grow D.t. as a tropical ended with fungus attacking the plants. Take care, Steven Stewart

I was forced to post this photograph to change the heading of "the loser is..." I have always liked this hybrid, and it seems to be very tolerant of many different conditions. Just click on this small thumbnail pic. and it will enlarge. Take care, Steven Stewart

Actually scale insect males are about as abundant as the females, but are smaller than fungus gnats and winged. Male scales do not attach themselves to plants like the females, and as Dave said the female scales are born with eggs ready to be laid. When using parasitic wasps to control various genera of scales, it was important for me to get to know these pests. That is how I became too familiar with their gender differences. Take care, Steven Stewart

I would not expect the hybrid D. capillaris x intermedia to produce seed, unless it came from Ivan Snyder, or was the plant known as the D. capillaris "long arm" or " Florida giant". This is a very nice Drosera for any collection! Take care, Steven Stewart

Carefully separating the plantlets into individual plants is the best way to stop the division process of Dionaea for me. I have had once very large rhizomes continue to divide for two years, once I divided them, the individual plants grew larger. Some individuals split into two or three, but most grow into flowering size plants within a year or so.

Willy, If you click on the thumbnail (small) photograph you can enlarge it, and see more details of the Drosera seedlings. I believe that is what you are asking. Take care, Steven Stewart

They aren't from the petiolaris complex, they have evident cotyledons. At this stage of growth it is easier to eliminate species than to include them. I don't think they are from the indica group either. It is fun to find stray Drosera seedlings. On occasion they can turn out to be something uncommon. Take care, Steven Stewart

Manders, Have you ever attempted a root drench with a fungicide? I try to avoid fungicides, but they can work wonders if not over used. I use Cleary 3336F. I don't know if this brand is available on your side of the pond, but I would think others have used a brand that would work. I never get it on Pinguicula primuliflora, mine died shortly after using this product on it. Live Sphagnum that I grow doesn't like most fungicides either. Take care, Steven Stewart

Manders, I am very careful when I write that "I have not seen any damage on my plants in the past when allowed to cool down below 5C. for short periods of time. Not all N. hookeriana clones are this hardy" I have grown many clones of N. hookeriana in Florida, and in Colorado, USA. In Colorado, outside temperatures often get below -10F for weeks at a time. Please note I made no mistake when I write -10F It seems you have a personal problem with everything I write about Nepenthes, it would be best if you PM me, to work out your issues, and not waste space on this forum. Take care, Steven Stewart