Prompt

D. crysolepis D. grantsuai D. latifolia

X Dave Evans: My experience about the white LED is based on the cultivation of different species, Heliamphora, Nepenthes, Drosera South American and South African. For about year, I am experiencing sowing under white LEDs and are born from seed successfully: Roridula gorgonias, highland nepenthes, Drosera ultramafica , Drosera regia, Drosera chrysolepis. If using a single shade of white led, I believe that the neutral white is the one with the best range for the wavelengths that can receive and convert photosynthesis plants. I personally, if I can, I build the lamps with two types of white, this allows for the maximum spectrum for plants using only white LEDs. Prompt

I messed up, I mean lumens indeed :) The neutral white does best in the blue range compared to warm-white, but less than the range of red, deep red. I think it is a middle ground between the cool and warm tones. I personally use two white simultaneously: neutral-white + warm-white, in some cases, cool white + warm white. Therefore the warm white for me should never be lacking. Prompt

Hello, I cultivate some years using white LEDs and they work fine. Are you sure 200w fluorescent are only 6000 lux? usually a white fluorescent lamp is around 70 lux/watts, therefore 200w correspond on average to 14000lux. Taking as reference the watt, a modern white LED is more efficient than a flurescent lamp of about 30% -35%, wrote an article about AIPC Magazine where I explained the difference. If you use only one shade of white, I suggest the neutral white also called natural white, the color index is around 4500-5000K. Prompt

The growing conditions are the following: humidity: costant 70-80% white LED lighting: warm/cool ratio 1:1 - for 11 hours temperature: winter 10/18 degrees - summer 18-26 degrees substrate: quartz sand / peat ratio 1: 1 Prompt

I present: Miss South America and her daughters Regards Prompt

Hello, I cultivate only with white LEDs, and in my years of cultivation under smd led, I can tell you with certainty that the 5050 are efficient for terrariums less than 50 cm high, exceeded this height you have to pass to the LEDs with additional optics. My calculation for your 85cm x 60cm terrarium is 6 strips of a 1 meter (about 85Watt). The configuration that I recommend is to put striped warm-white and neutral white with a ratio of 1: 1. You must also be attentive to the adhesive strips because it tends to detach due to the heat. I personally use the rigid strips led that are much better for the installation. Prompt

Hello Gubbtjuven, For the thermostat, follow the link: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Universal-Automatic-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-220V-Control-Switch-TK0127/1713222875.html I connected the thermostat on the green wire (power) of the power supply, see figure: When the green wire is connected to ground, the power supply is turned on, when the green wire is disconnected from the ground, the power supply shuts down. Prompt

an overview of the prototype Prompt

Here is the cool devices, since the outer side, the components are all of the highest quality, this choice allows you to have a background noise imperceptible and flawless operation. The choice of components was long and laborious, the cost of the components is not negligible, around 150 euro. Consumption when turned on is about 80 watts and if the terrarium is well insulated it is possible to determine the power consumption per liter, for this project is approximately 0.89 watts per liter.

Zoom view internal cool system, group: peltier (hidden from polystyrene panel), heatsink, silent fan, basket lock (red element). The polystyrene panel is covered by an adhesive sheet mirror Large view in terrarium, group: peltier, heatsink, silent fan Prompt

Below the block sandwich, consisting of: Cold side heat sink cell peltier waterblock Prompt