Marcus B

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Marcus B last won the day on November 20 2015

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About Marcus B

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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    CP, turtles, birds, native plants

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  1. CMB DD-C002

    On the topic of CMB plants, does anyone else find that their plants tend to set seed more readily than other Cephs? I have a number of plants in flower, but I have not hand pollinated them this year, but the CMB plants have heaps of flowers clustered together, more tightly than the other plants, and most of the flowers appear to have set seed. They normally set seed well, but I have normally used a brush to pollinate them. Other plants along side them, and even having their flower stems touching the CMB ones have few seeds setting on them.
  2. cephalotus adrian slack

    And few others named after people that supplied them.
  3. Definition of the Terms "clone" & "clonotype"

    The term clone should not be just another word for an individual. It should be only applied as is appropriate, as the article correctly states, or confusion reigns. Plants grown from seeds are not clones. They are genetically individuals, and not copies of each other. Plants propagated vegetatively are then clones of a seed grown plant. As Naoki has put it, for those of us trained in biology, "clone" has a defined meaning.
  4. Cephalotus typical from Charles Brewer.

    I know that he has plants that he got from Phil Mann, as well as the plants that he got from John Hummer (and if I remember correctly, a few other well known growers), and it is my understanding that he has also, like many of us, has grown plants from seed and selected the best as stock plants. My understanding is that, apart from a few, he does not sell them as named clones, he merely vegetatively propagates his stock plants and sells most simply labelled as typicals. I hope that clarifies things for you.
  5. Cephalotus typical from Charles Brewer.

    Charles Brewer was one of the main sellers of Cephs in the USA, having learnt a lot about growing them from John Hammer. He sells a range plants obtained from other well known growers as well as his own selected clones. He is a member of this forum, but does not post very often. I am not sure how many plants he sells these days, but years ago his plan was to have a least a 1000 stock plants to produce sales plants from. I believe that he at least got close to that number.
  6. Cephalotus "red chep" on ebay

    Looks pretty ordinary to me. Getting Cephs to look reddish is not that difficult, given the right conditions. Getting them to stay red can be another matter, as they will vary with the seasons. Even if they have the idea set up to maintain those conditions, when you grow it under your conditions it may be green, or go darker still.
  7. Winter & summer color differences.

    I agree, I think that is the best way to look at the potential of darker clones. Incidentally, when looking over my plants recently I picked out a small plant that was the darkest in my collection and found it was one of my EB x EB seedlings.
  8. Surprise find during a bit of cleaning

    Usually buried with the growth point at the surface, but for a long one you can cut it up and put the bits without the growth point flat under the surface so they send out side shoots. I have just placed whole cuttings flat and got multiple growth points so it is not vital one way or the other, but upwards is better that downward.
  9. "Edwards Giant"

    Yes, your plant put my "Giant" into second place in the Cephs that year, even though it can produce bigger pitchers. Good to see you back. As Sean said, it is Guy who re-named your plant. My piece of your clone is just tagged with your name. Great colouration and growth rate from this clone, no matter which name it goes by.
  10. Surprise find during a bit of cleaning

    It is a rhizome, rather than a root. Trying growing Cephs in a basket pot and you are likely to have it happen fairly often, as I used to. Cutting them off and potting them up is one way to take rhizome cuttings.
  11. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    Excalfactoria actually. They are a lot smaller than our Coturnix species, but well guessed. In fact they are actually the smallest species of fowl (Pheasant family). Here we get House Crickets in four sizes pinhead (newly hatched), small, medium and large. I prefer pinheads for Cephs as they are the size of small ants which are a natural prey item for Cephs.
  12. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    Greetings Richard, firstly definately do not feed Cephs mealworms. I have done that in the past as I keep them feeding quails and they are great for Neps. Unless you use the very tiny ones you can over do the feeding. If you want to try the Osmocote, try a small pellet in the largest trap on the plant, but only one pellet in one trap. Peter has had plenty of experience at this, but I suggest that you take things carefully. The fertilizer should help the Ceph recover quicker from the shock of the move,but you don't want to over do it. Make sure you make the spray dilute. For what I use I dilute it 1:10 of the recommended dilution for other plants. Check with Peter what he recommends for the fertilizer he has referred you to. Basically although to a point you can feed Cephs like Neps, you need to be aware that it is better to keep Cephs in drier air, while Neps need humidity. Neps are bigger and can handle larger meals, while Cephs naturally catch small crawling arthropods. Large insects will cause the traps to rot out, so if you wish to feed them live prey then use something like pinhead or small House Crickets (Chinese/Japanese Crickets). Greetings Richard, firstly definately do not feed Cephs mealworms. I have done that in the past as I keep them feeding quails and they are great for Neps. Unless you use the very tiny ones you can over do the feeding. If you want to try the Osmocote, try a small pellet in the largest trap on the plant, but only one pellet in one trap. Peter has had plenty of experience at this, but I suggest that you take things carefully. The fertilizer should help the Ceph recover quicker from the shock of the move,but you don't want to over do it. Make sure you make the spray dilute. For what I use I dilute it 1:10 of the recommended dilution for other plants. Check with Peter what he recommends for the fertilizer he has referred you to. Basically although to a point you can feed Cephs like Neps, you need to be aware that it is better to keep Cephs in drier air, while Neps need humidity. Neps are bigger and can handle larger meals, while Cephs naturally catch small crawling arthropods. Large insects will cause the traps to rot out, so if you wish to feed them live prey then use something like pinhead or small House Crickets (Chinese/Japanese Crickets).
  13. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    Best thing that you can do for the traps is to reposition them and add a little water to them. Frequently when transplanted Cephs lose the bigger/older pitchers. If it came in the pot they may recover. The change in environment may still be enough to cause it to die back before it puts out new growth. Care for Cephs is pretty much the same not matter what label they have. How are you intending to feed it? Putting food into the traps can cause them to die off if it is over done. Small amounts work well, as do dilute appropriate fertilizers when sprayed over the leaves.
  14. Cephalotus - autumn pictures.

    Great photos! This would seem to support the notion of the temperature variation being important in colour production, but it not necessarily needing to be as great as previously suggested.
  15. Cephalotus - autumn pictures.

    From my experience and the comments of others, the best colouration comes not just due to being cold and getting direct sunlight, but due a good variation in temperaure from night to day. I have seen quotes of the variation needing to be a least 10oC for good colour. This is is best seen here when there are frosts followed by sunny days, but I have also seen plants colour up well when there was a similar variation between night and day without it being quite so cold, provided they have good sun exposure. So it may not be a matter of not being cold enough, but rather it not being warm enough in the day after a cold night. The question I suppose is, how cold does it need to be for this to be effective? Then again, I have plants that just ignore all this and either refuse to colour up, or colour up regardless of the conditions, even without seeming to get the direct sun needed. Evidently they still get enough light to respond.