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Vince81 last won the day on April 16

Vince81 had the most liked content!

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About Vince81

  • Birthday 11/30/1988

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    Heliamphora & highland Utricularia

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  1. Amazing setups! Love the natural vibe it gives.
  2. Indeed, 15°C is not that odd. Perhaps, you can take several readings and get rid of the extreme values. Or, unless you can induce a severe temperature drop, say by watering, you can also have something which could take into account the previous value, a bit as you've just implied. About making an average, this is a piece of code that I have for my RH sensor: def mcp3008Inputs(channel, probe): [...] Readout_sum = 0 for i in range(1,1001,1): Readout = readadc(channel) Readout_sum = Readout_sum + Readout Readout_avg = Readout_sum / 1000.000 As for the temperature (code freely adapted from Clément Lefranc's one): def RoomTemp(): RoomTemperature = W1ThermSensor(W1ThermSensor.THERM_SENSOR_DS18B20, "00000561f4f8") RoomTempValue = float(round(RoomTemperature.get_temperature(), 1)) if RoomTempValue > 45 or RoomTempValue < -10 : return RoomTemp() print("Room Temperature: " + str(RoomTempValue ) + "C") return RoomTempValue Maybe the simplest way would be getting the median of a list of readings.. Up to you, too many choices :).
  3. 35/40°C seems quite excessive to me. I hope your plants are coping well with this heat. Well, I'm no coder, so I can't really advise on a legitimate basis. But I can let you know how I did my own thing. It was easy to do with existing tools in Python. See here. import email import smtplib msg = email.message_from_string('warning') msg['From'] = "" msg['To'] = "" msg['Subject'] = "helOoooOo" s = smtplib.SMTP("",587) s.ehlo() # Hostname to send for this command defaults to the fully qualified domain name of the local host. s.starttls() #Puts connection to SMTP server in TLS mode s.ehlo() s.login('', 'pass') s.sendmail("", "", msg.as_string()) s.quit() I created an email account just for the RPi, which sends two emails per day + any set up alerts (temperatures, lights, open door, etc.). You just need to replace the '' (sender's address), '' (recipient's address), 'pass', and '' with the adequate email addresses, the password of the sender's address and the smtp mail server of the sender's address (easy to find on Google). As for the erroneous sensor readings, you might consider saving the data only if it is a plausible one. For instance, an expected terrarium temperature could be comprised between 5°C and 50°C, so any data out of the range should be read again. Then, you could also take 10 readings, and make an average out of them to smooth the curve.
  4. That's quite the exhaustive topic you made here. Its looks very clean, especially the LED setup with the black wiring. Not to mention the light shield ;). Congratulations on your first adult Heliamphora pitcher too. I look forward to hearing more from your terrarium, especially from those lovely colourful Cephalotus.
  5. Apologies for the delay Stu, I was hopping to get back to you only when able to introduce the website. Well, I believe it will take one more week or so. Thanks for the pointer: I thought I knew what 'mister' means, but I guess it's always time for a reality check! Hey Tom, thanks for the nice feedback. I have yet to read your website, but it seems to be a great tutorial! I wish I had something like that when I first started to delve into this kind of endeavour. I'm sure it will be a great help for many growers. Congratulations on presenting your work in a didactic manner. Just skimming through, it looks very neat. I'm glad you found 'plenty of ideas' for your next setup. I do love how working with a RPi gives you the possibility to explore a prospect and actually make it happen. I can't wait to see your next upgrade or even your new project then. I'll make sure to post some regular updates (at least one for the website very soon), although I hope the next time will be for pictures of plants ;).
  6. Amazing! Keep up the good work! That last H. neblinae pitcher is a stunner!
  7. Lovely !
  8. Please, do so whenever possible ;). I got what energenie sockets and powerhead are thanks to Google, but couldn't figure out what 'mister' refers to in this particular case :). About coding, once again, I opted for the solution developed by my friend, so, I've been using Highcharts library. That allows you to conveniently display your data on graphs. That does look like pokie22's way (are you using Highcharts too?). Here is a graph that I have on my website to introduce a 'typical winter day': Graphs can be changed accordingly to the desired period, saved, displayed on a php webpage, meaning either on your computer/mobile device or on a screen attached to the RPi (like the one on the picture of my fusebox/consumer unit). Before getting the code from my friend, I had used this tutorial, that you might already know though:
  9. Thank you all for your kind comments. That sounds like something I can relate to ;-). Have you introduced your setup somewhere? I am a novice with coding too, but fortunately, the community around the RPi is well developed and provides a substantial amount of resources. What do you have in mind when referring to 'future possibilities'? Anything specific, anything in sight?
  10. Absolutely gorgeous healthy plants!
  11. edit: double post
  12. Among others, such a nice Heliamphora pulchella (Apacapa Tepui). Congratulations!
  13. Thanks Maciej :). I will do so as soon as they have grown up a bit. As of now, it might be still too early for a good bunch of them.
  14. Hey there, I thought it was time for me to introduce in this thread my new terrarium. It will be more 'techy' than 'planty', so if you are expecting mainly pictures of plants here, well, you'll be pretty disappointed. I started over 6 months ago with this new project, as I had to stop growing carnivorous plants and put away my former terrarium. I hope it will meet the same success as its elder brother. The previous one was already running with a RPi, but its use wasn't maxed out. Here we go, the result as it was a few weeks ago: Basically, it's a small terrarium (65x55x65) dedicated to grow highland carnivorous plants, but also, to answer my needs as a grower: autonomous, tailored set up with remote monitoring. Handy, transportable by one person, and good-looking (enough). Almost bearable in a living room, i.e, not giving away too quickly a vibe of 'eccentricity'. But behind the scene, it's a different kettle of fish. I bought the glass panes, and started to drill them. The holes will be used for aquarium tubing: Practising: Then starting with actual panes: Watering the area of interest: Then: The silicone used to joint the terrarium together: A bit messy: Top pane set up. I stuck the first rail for sliding panes. Wait of 24h. Then final jointing and installation of the through-tank connectors. 48h wait, and leak test : I built a small tank made of 2 cm styrofoam to contribute to insulate the cooled water from the outside of the terrarium. The aim was to prevent cold losses and reduce outside condensation on the window: Second profile rail drying: As a side note, the bottom profile rail is smaller than the top one, allowing easy removal of the sliding panes : Slicing off a gutter, so to make support for gratings : To water the plant wall, I set up a pierce hose on top of it: Stuck hose: Cheeky bubble: Same goes with the tree fern panels: I made a tank for the fogging system, as well as two shelves (one for the tank, one for the watercooling radiator): The shelves: Final test: Now, about the lighting system. In short, I wanted LEDs, as they have more opportunities for playing around. They can be dimmed and can have precise wavelengths. So it's possible to roughly mimic sunrise/sunset. I used several small ones instead of few big ones because I wanted passive cooling (silent installation), and not being forced to have fans running on top of big LEDs to have them cooled down. I bought MK-R LEDs and no-name ones (blue: 440-445, 430-435nm and red: 660nm), all powered around 4W. The MK-R as I received them: The first step is to mount the MK-R on their individual PCB: I spread solder paste on the PCB: I did reflow soldering, by making solder paste melt between the PCB and the LED. Information about the specifications on how to carry out this process can be found on the MK-R datasheet: Useful thermometer (there wasn't any LED on the pan at the time I took this picture): Then, I drilled and mounted some heatsinks together: I added some tin to make the connecting easy: Thermal paste and other tools: The beginning: (there was actually a mistake in this wiring at the time of the picture) Finally: White: Yellow: Red: Blue: Warm effect (morning): Winter-is-coming effect: A bit of an overkill, but in case, some fans to help the heatsinks dissipate the heat: How the lighting system is fixed. Inspired from aquarium hobby: Funny trick - how to adjust the height of the lighting system: The fusebox, when I was still tinkering with the RPi: The cooling system (below 13°C at night and no higher than 25°C during the day): The cooling unit: The connectors: The watercooling radiator: The heating system is based on a heating pad and a fan (that I also use for the fogging system, and all day long to promote air circulation): The fogging system, with classic mist makers: The watering system is composed of 4 nozzles: And a pump: And for the geeky part, the Raspberry Pi to rule them all. This is the micro-controller (small computer) which manages all the devices related to the terrarium. Good news, you can do almost everything you want. Bad news, the RPi won't program itself: I connected several sensors and other hardware resources to it. To have something neat, I designed a printed circuit board (PCB). Yep, the schematic is quite messy: Rendering this after milling (a friend of mine milled it for me): I soaked it into liquid tin: Then, components' supports: Tropicoat coating: In the end, more or less: A webcam on top of the terrarium: Which gives this kind of snapshot (I consider doing time-lapse, as soon as I don't have plastic bags on top of some plants. I removed them for the sake of the pictures): How to command the devices ? Using relays. I had some that I very recently replaced with wireless (radio/433 Mhz) ones. The emitter: The relay: A receiver (to copy radio signals, or for instance, coupled with a remote controller to switch off the terrarium): Family picture: And not-so-useful remote controllers, as everything is managed by the RPi. They bypass the RPi (as they send the same signals as the RPi do), so, I can turn on/off a device without having to use the RPi, and without tampering with the rules I set up. I just have to ensure that I put the device back in its original state after I'm done operating it. About coding, I had a first version which was working but far from being optimised. The crucial upgrade was made possible thanks to Clément Lefranc, who gave me his entire code. He is the one who takes the credit. Thanks to his gesture, I could start from a working base that I adapted to my own needs. As you might be assuming, I have developed a website to better introduce the terrarium. Almost finished with it, just left with a few things to correct. It will be more convenient to look up for any information related to the terrarium, as I'm afraid there are too many pictures on this topic. But in case of major update, I'll make sure to put the info into this topic as well, so that the gist is always presented here. That was all for the initial investment. Then, what is interesting is to watch how the plants will react to all this attention. Especially in the long run, as, when it comes to growing, that is the only thing which matters in my opinion. And the more it is complex, the more it's likely to break down somewhere. But I'll keep you updated. At least, the start is successfully completed: believe me, it could have not been so. I hope it might give ideas to some of you. Vince P.S: I still can't get my hand on the 'preview button'. Has it totally disappeared? Is there any way to have it back?
  15. That's an insane picture ! Love it !