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manders last won the day on February 18

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About manders

  • Birthday 01/28/1964

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  1. Probably a dwarf cavendish (cultivated hybrid), should be edible. Most bananas are edible but the wild varieties are full of hard black seeds... If its a cavendish it wont be hardy at all.
  2. Why would you need backup heating except for emergencies? Heat pumps are normally reliable, basically its just a fridge in reverse. I had one for a two years in Japan, it never failed to work as the only source of heating in a flat. In my case i'm heating a very well insulated 18x10ft greenhouse and leccy costs for heating are about 600£ per year (I have it logged), with a COP over 5, that reduces the bill to around 110£/yr. Therefore 1800-330 = 1470£ saving in three years, more than enough to cover cost+installation. What I wouldn't do is put one of these in a small greenhouse, as you say the payback would be much longer and the heating duty would probably be well oversized, ideally you want the inverter controlling the temperature rather than the unit switching on/off every few minutes. I'm curious to see what the COP actually works out to be in practice, it could either be higher or lower than the figure quoted. The rated conditions are 7C outside 21C inside. If your heating from UK winter average of 5C to greenhouse of say 14C, the COP should be higher than 5.5 rated value. Anyway so far its proving extremely cheap to run so i'm happy.
  3. It's extremely quiet, on the outside unit i have to look at the fan or put my hand on the unit (it gets cold) to know if its working. The inside unit is quieter or similar to a fan heater. I suppose it might get noiser with old age. If you had it in a bedroom then it could be irritating at night, but most poeple would get used to it, i used to have one in Japan and thailand in the bedroom, irritating at first but only for a few days. Not a problem in a greenhouse or for the neighbours. The one i got was Mitsubishi M, the High COP version, MZFH25VE. I got the smallest unit, puts out a maximum of 3 or 4 kW, i'm not sure exactly as max power is not stated. Definately not a DIY installation, i was tempted to get a cheap unit and diy it (cheap ones are all chinese junk). Its not actually legal to DIY it. In the end i went for the high end Mitsubishi, it has the best COP and probably the best reputation (Daikin are ok also). Got three quotes for installation, quite a bit of difference between the three. The guys who put it in did a great job. There, are units specifically designed for greenhouses that can be diy (i.e. Marjuana growers), a bit too big and expensive for most amateur greenhouses i suspect. the only aspect that does bother me slightly is keeping the electronics dry, it us fairly well protected, but if course there is some risk of damaging it. If i had a big enough greenhouse(which i dont), safer option would be air to water heat pump, so you pump hot water round the greenhouse and the electronics is kept sealed in the outside unit. Anyway, so far, especially with the temperature problem sorted, i'm really happy with it.
  4. I think the temperature control is sorted, the wifi app lets you set any temperature between 10 and 30C!
  5. Supposedly -15C, the efficiency will probably drop off a bit by then. There are some videos on utube with these working at -10 or lower and not pulling a huge current. I need a few cold nights to properly test it, but we only get to -4C once a year at most here (2010 excepted!!).
  6. Had been thinking about this for literally years, admittedly its a bit of an experiment, albeit a potentially expensive one. All being well it should payback in 2-3 years. I'm quite happily setting higher temperatures and not worrying about leccy bills. there are a couple of limitations, can only set either 10C or 16C+ as a minimum. I think there is a way around this though. Also theres some electronics inside the indoor unit, so getting it wet wouldnt be a good idea. Anyway, if i can go for three years without breaking it (and parts are warranted for that period) it will have covered the cost of it!
  7. It's an air source heat pump (air conditiong unit in other words), produces 3.2 kW of heat for power input of 0.58 kW, theoretically.
  8. Outdoor Unit Indoor Unit (with emergency backup fan heater).
  9. is it from Wistubas?, ive never been able to grow the red one, prone to root rot, i think it needs warm temperatures 24C+ and very good light. I have a grey/green one which grows as a highlander with no problems.
  10. Sorry i cant help much, mold would normally indicate its a bit too humid but youve allready thought of that. Is it possible to leave them out at night or is it too cold/dry?? vfts are are usually ok down to several degrees below freezing, although they wont grow if it gets that cold. Do you get sarracenia purpurea anywhere near you or are you too far north?
  11. Yeah, i didnt understand the reasons, was one of the committee the scammer? Ok im being fascetious, but when communication is not clear thats the sort of interpretations that can happen. At the end of the day, its not big a deal and if got a begging email for plants my first thought is allways going to be its a fraud. In the past the forum was allways very open about naming fraudulent traders or just bad service, if thats going to change it is not an improvement.
  12. Because there are a lot of dickheads out there who will pick up the wrong posts, accuse the wrong person, and the whole thing ends up in a mess. Do not run the site like the local housewifes gossip group.
  13. Part of the reason i dont like this approach is its accusation by rumour. If you know someone is scamming, name and shame and give them a chance to respond. Its all very well that a quick search might find a culprit, but the approach is just wrong. I allready know who your accusing because i remember the post from a while back.
  14. Richard, btw if your ever tempted by nepenthes, try a sanguinea, mine just overwintered with min 4C no problems at all, a few other highlanders started to struggle, maxima nearly died.
  15. Richard, its wooden framed, some lower wooden parts (north, east, weat lower sides) are insulated with celotex building insulation, the glass parts lined with 25mm polycarbonate. The poly is expensive to buy but saves on electric so pays back pretty quick, wouldnt be worth it if you only want a minimum of 5C, but with a minimum of 13C or so the heater works most days, sometimes even in summer. i used to have a 10x8 aluminium lined with bubblewrap and min 10C, heating costs were about the same as the new wooden 18x10 @13C.