billynomates666

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About billynomates666

  • Birthday 03/12/1955

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    Midlands England
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    motor bikes, CPs, being happy

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  1. Hi skullkeeper Hard water doesn't loose any of its total dissolved solids by standing I'm afraid, you will only loose the chlorine from it. So in theory no, not for any length of time, a watering or two you can get away with if you are desperate and thoroughly flush the pots once rainwater is available, or better if you only have a few plants get some car battery top up water, distilled water, condensate from an AC unit, use the frost from one of the older style freezers or buy some RO water from a tropical/reef fish sales outlet. You should get rain on Sunday so you may be OK cheers steve
  2. As Ian says a lot depends on where you are. In the uk. I grow nearly all mine outside in the Midlands. They should be fine outside, however the Purpurea Burkei, is nowhere near as hardy as var purpurea so may need some protection in winter. S. 'Eva' exact parentage is not known but it is thought to be S. X 'Juthatip Soper' with mitchelliana backcrossed with leucophylla, so should be relatively hardy Cheers Steve
  3. Don't use softened water, use RO, distilled, rain or condensate from AC units. Otherwise Water with a TDS below 50 for prolonged use. Cheers Steve
  4. Hi Ezza and welcome. I have kept carnivorous plants outside for many years now and it is surprising what you can keep, if your bog is large enough. All Sarracenia can be kept outside and are generally good down to -10 or more, (I have had -18C with only a few losses, but then less than 1/2 the VFTs died) exceptions to this are the S. purpurea venosa's, S. psittacina and minors, requiring higher temperatures or better protection, although over the past few years, with the warmer winters, mine have been fine with minimal or no protection. VFTs similarly do well outside although they are obviously later to get going than indoor plants, minimal protection required, again in the past i have had them to -12C and more. The temperate Pinguicula all do well fast forming a green slimey carpet, as do the indigenous Drosera species, as well as all forms of D. binata and the ubiquitous D. capensis. The latter two die back to their roots over winter and sprout again from the roots, eventually forming clumps. The larger bog you create the better really, it aids temperature and water stability, which helps the plants. Possibly the worst enemies of an outside bog is frequent freeze/thaw cycles, desiccating winds and bogs being too full of water in the cold weather, especially in small bogs, always incorporate a removable drain and guard against the other threats as best you can, large mass is a good safeguard if they are outside all year. Cheers Steve
  5. As you can see It seems as if the VFTs and a Cephalotus have come through winter outside well with a fleece cover, a small poly tunnel will heat up quickly and would encourage rot unless well ventilated, so may cause more problems than it solved. Cheers Steve
  6. Very nice
  7. I believe Aidan at Insektenfang obtained some of his clones some years back, however that business has been sold on I don't know what happened to them. Cheers Steve
  8. If they are showing signs of growing, then yes. As an aside I plugged my outside bogs two weeks ago and they are now almost to level, so Sarracenia can cope with wet conditions quite easily, but in a greenhouse you get an early start which can be jeopardised by a cold snap.
  9. Hi Joni and welcome. It is a great hobby but you never have enough plants or indeed space! Cheers Steve
  10. Hi Ben and welcome to CPUK Nice to see you here at last. Cheers Steve
  11. Hi B52, there no such thing as a dumb a~% question, merely an outstanding dubious uncertainty requiring a resolution. I really must try to find a job in HR. Welcome! and ask away, we are here to help. Cheers Steve
  12. I used to use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-LITRE-PERLITE-100-50-25-10-5L-GRADE-HYDROPONICS-GROW-MEDIUM-POT-SOIL-TENT-/281572419852?var=&hash=item418f06290c:m:mdMOASTGG9h4mV5nzHJiGlA Cheers Steve
  13. Hi Bluedog and welcome to the wonderful world of bog growing. Yes your plants can all go together but you will need to control the dormancy requirements in accordance with the VFT needs as the Darlingtonia and Purpurea will take a lot colder and harsher conditions. Mature Purpurea clumps can get very large and of course Darlingtonia stolons go everywhere, so in theory any small container will get overgrown in a couple of years. I would go for the largest container you can. Given that you want to be able to move it a 600 diameter plastic container with no base holes would seem not ideal, but about right. You will need to split the plants every couple of years or so once they are mature as they will crowd each other out, which isn’t a bad thing as it will give you chance to change/revitalise the medium to keep them growing well. Water – it’s a bit like how long is a piece of string I’m afraid, it depends on sunlight, wind, humidity levels, foliage etc etc, but I water my planters once every three days or so if it hasn’t rained with varying amounts of water generally to about half way or a little more up the pot. If you peer down your watering tube that should tell you what sort of level you have, or put a cork with a wooden skewer stuck in the top down the pipe, then you will be able to see the level rise and fall. It is a good idea to have a series of plugged holes at varying levels down the back of the planter to allow you to vary the water levels through the season, as in winter you want moist only so one at low level is a must and in other seasons, after rain you can have a complete inundation, which isn’t a bad thing unless it goes on for a long time and excludes oxygen from the roots, so one about a third up is also good, as is one third down. Varying the water level introduces oxygen to the mix which is good for the plants, stops the substrate from going anaerobic and reduces the decomposition of the mix which of course releases nutrients into the substrate which you don’t want, but having a low drain point allows you a periodic drain to get rid of any nutrient build up. I think that a lot of planters fail because of nutrient build up that cant be reduced. It looks like you have researched it well, once you have this one up and running you will want another, they soon take over the sunny parts of the garden. Cheers Steve
  14. Hello Samantha and welcome. You will find the answer to any query or advice you need here, they are a very knowledgeable bunch. Cheers Steve
  15. Did all my Sarracenia seeds and some pygmy drosera gemmae over the Xmas break, they are all now sitting in a cold porch, the seeds stratifying. The seed pots will be placed onto a heat mat type propagator in March. Cheers Steve