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billynomates666 last won the day on March 9 2016

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About billynomates666

  • Birthday 03/12/1955

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    Midlands England
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    motor bikes, CPs, being happy

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  1. My outside plants are not as advanced as yours yet, sadly. Cheers Steve
  2. I recycle mine as best I can, but you have to do more than remove a build up of salts. In my bogs I don't suffer from the build up of salts as the bogs get occasional innundations and are drained. However when the peat starts to deteriorate as the acidity level falls, (I measure the PH twice a year) the peat starts to release nutrients as it decomposes and it breaks down into the smaller, fine particulate. This finer substrate also reduces oxygen exchange to the roots, so needs its texture opening up. When I see this happening, I dig the bog roughly, mix in sulphur chips for quick lowering of PH, pine bark, pine needles or shavings for longer term acidity and tannin release. As I tend to grow outside I don't have specimen plants as such, but I have done this for a number of years with good results with Sarracenia. Cheers Steve
  3. Depends on the gravel, you need something inert, you obviously don't want anything alkaline, nor any gravel that will break down in acidic conditins. Often gravel for fish aquariums is OK but is generally smaller than the size you need. Granite chippings may fit the bill. Cheers Steve
  4. Sounds like you have a good working solution. Perlite is fine! cheers Steve
  5. Hi Guy You will need a drain in them, otherwise prolonged water logging will cause anaerobic conditions, stop the oxygen transfer to the roots and eventually kill the plants. im not sure how to accomplish this with a plastic liner internally, other than setting a syphon pipe into the troughs, via a piece of drain pipe inserted in one corner 1 1/4 or 3" and a smaller syphon tube to insert into that to drain fluid out, say a piece of hose pipe. You could try a piece of pipe siliconed into the liner fitted with a cork in the end to prevent constant draining, pushed through the side of the trough, but that may not be successful. Dont use vermiculitethat does break down. cheers steve
  6. Hmm I have not heard this, I have 2 units that i just connect and disconnect as required, (one big and one small) the initial outflow is normally higher in TDS, say 50-80 ppm, I guess due to the growth of organics in the units and pipes, however the level drops to 10-20 ppm after about 10 mins. I also over winter the units without draining or taking apart and again they work well after a few minutes of running. Cheers Steve
  7. Thats exactly how I staggered into it, learning as I went, I go back to pre internet times when the sort of information you can now find in minutes, used to take weeks in libraries and correspondence. Just continue to enjoy them in whatever way is good for you. Cheers Steve
  8. Hi Guy People do name some of their more promising plants, these names normally being designated in double quotation marks to differentiate them from a registered cultivar, which are formally noted in single quotation marks. Thus S. "Big floppy top" is a plant which has a working name that can be recognised by other growers, whereas S. 'Big floppy top' would be a Registered cultivar. One way, but not the only way is to check the plants name r veracity is with the ICPS site to see if it is a properly registered cultivar as here Or another great resource for learning some plants lineage is John Jerrards deconfusifier as here It's a bit of a minefield I'm afraid as you will find out the deeper you get into the hobby and not an altogether satisfactory system, but it is the only one we have. Hope that helps Cheers Steve
  9. Hi skullkeeper Hard water doesn't loose any of its total dissolved solids by standing I'm afraid, you will only loose the chlorine from it. So in theory no, not for any length of time, a watering or two you can get away with if you are desperate and thoroughly flush the pots once rainwater is available, or better if you only have a few plants get some car battery top up water, distilled water, condensate from an AC unit, use the frost from one of the older style freezers or buy some RO water from a tropical/reef fish sales outlet. You should get rain on Sunday so you may be OK cheers steve
  10. As Ian says a lot depends on where you are. In the uk. I grow nearly all mine outside in the Midlands. They should be fine outside, however the Purpurea Burkei, is nowhere near as hardy as var purpurea so may need some protection in winter. S. 'Eva' exact parentage is not known but it is thought to be S. X 'Juthatip Soper' with mitchelliana backcrossed with leucophylla, so should be relatively hardy Cheers Steve
  11. Don't use softened water, use RO, distilled, rain or condensate from AC units. Otherwise Water with a TDS below 50 for prolonged use. Cheers Steve
  12. Hi Ezza and welcome. I have kept carnivorous plants outside for many years now and it is surprising what you can keep, if your bog is large enough. All Sarracenia can be kept outside and are generally good down to -10 or more, (I have had -18C with only a few losses, but then less than 1/2 the VFTs died) exceptions to this are the S. purpurea venosa's, S. psittacina and minors, requiring higher temperatures or better protection, although over the past few years, with the warmer winters, mine have been fine with minimal or no protection. VFTs similarly do well outside although they are obviously later to get going than indoor plants, minimal protection required, again in the past i have had them to -12C and more. The temperate Pinguicula all do well fast forming a green slimey carpet, as do the indigenous Drosera species, as well as all forms of D. binata and the ubiquitous D. capensis. The latter two die back to their roots over winter and sprout again from the roots, eventually forming clumps. The larger bog you create the better really, it aids temperature and water stability, which helps the plants. Possibly the worst enemies of an outside bog is frequent freeze/thaw cycles, desiccating winds and bogs being too full of water in the cold weather, especially in small bogs, always incorporate a removable drain and guard against the other threats as best you can, large mass is a good safeguard if they are outside all year. Cheers Steve
  13. As you can see It seems as if the VFTs and a Cephalotus have come through winter outside well with a fleece cover, a small poly tunnel will heat up quickly and would encourage rot unless well ventilated, so may cause more problems than it solved. Cheers Steve
  14. Very nice
  15. I believe Aidan at Insektenfang obtained some of his clones some years back, however that business has been sold on I don't know what happened to them. Cheers Steve