billynomates666

Sponsor
  • Content count

    527
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

billynomates666 last won the day on March 9 2016

billynomates666 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

55 Excellent

About billynomates666

  • Birthday 03/12/1955

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    beerswiggers@aol.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlands England
  • Interests
    motor bikes, CPs, being happy

Recent Profile Visitors

4,886 profile views
  1. Hi Joni and welcome. It is a great hobby but you never have enough plants or indeed space! Cheers Steve
  2. Hi Ben and welcome to CPUK Nice to see you here at last. Cheers Steve
  3. Hi B52, there no such thing as a dumb a~% question, merely an outstanding dubious uncertainty requiring a resolution. I really must try to find a job in HR. Welcome! and ask away, we are here to help. Cheers Steve
  4. I used to use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-LITRE-PERLITE-100-50-25-10-5L-GRADE-HYDROPONICS-GROW-MEDIUM-POT-SOIL-TENT-/281572419852?var=&hash=item418f06290c:m:mdMOASTGG9h4mV5nzHJiGlA Cheers Steve
  5. Hi Bluedog and welcome to the wonderful world of bog growing. Yes your plants can all go together but you will need to control the dormancy requirements in accordance with the VFT needs as the Darlingtonia and Purpurea will take a lot colder and harsher conditions. Mature Purpurea clumps can get very large and of course Darlingtonia stolons go everywhere, so in theory any small container will get overgrown in a couple of years. I would go for the largest container you can. Given that you want to be able to move it a 600 diameter plastic container with no base holes would seem not ideal, but about right. You will need to split the plants every couple of years or so once they are mature as they will crowd each other out, which isn’t a bad thing as it will give you chance to change/revitalise the medium to keep them growing well. Water – it’s a bit like how long is a piece of string I’m afraid, it depends on sunlight, wind, humidity levels, foliage etc etc, but I water my planters once every three days or so if it hasn’t rained with varying amounts of water generally to about half way or a little more up the pot. If you peer down your watering tube that should tell you what sort of level you have, or put a cork with a wooden skewer stuck in the top down the pipe, then you will be able to see the level rise and fall. It is a good idea to have a series of plugged holes at varying levels down the back of the planter to allow you to vary the water levels through the season, as in winter you want moist only so one at low level is a must and in other seasons, after rain you can have a complete inundation, which isn’t a bad thing unless it goes on for a long time and excludes oxygen from the roots, so one about a third up is also good, as is one third down. Varying the water level introduces oxygen to the mix which is good for the plants, stops the substrate from going anaerobic and reduces the decomposition of the mix which of course releases nutrients into the substrate which you don’t want, but having a low drain point allows you a periodic drain to get rid of any nutrient build up. I think that a lot of planters fail because of nutrient build up that cant be reduced. It looks like you have researched it well, once you have this one up and running you will want another, they soon take over the sunny parts of the garden. Cheers Steve
  6. Hello Samantha and welcome. You will find the answer to any query or advice you need here, they are a very knowledgeable bunch. Cheers Steve
  7. Did all my Sarracenia seeds and some pygmy drosera gemmae over the Xmas break, they are all now sitting in a cold porch, the seeds stratifying. The seed pots will be placed onto a heat mat type propagator in March. Cheers Steve
  8. Hi Arthur and welcome. Cheers Steve
  9. Hi Mikko and welcome aboard. You can get all the info you need from the knowledge base available from the members here, ask away, they are generally only too pleased to help. Cheers Steve
  10. Wooden planters do rot, my half barrel (unlined) rotted beyond redemption in about five years, a similar lined barrel lasted a little longer, but still rotted due to water getting between the liner and the barrel wall. If you are intending to grow mostly Sarracenia I wouldn't worry too much about the insulation unless your planter is small and sand wont act as an insulator once wet. Your option 1 is the easiest and robust solution, I have a number of plastic planters with Sarracenia in and they work just fine, wood is good if you need aesthetically pleasing. just pop a horticultural fleece, or similar, over the plants if it is going to be below freezing for a long period. Cheers Steve
  11. Hi cafrnivore64 and welcome to the forums Cheers Steve
  12. Welcome to teh forums Not Fred and indeed to the hobby. Cheers Steve
  13. Hi Nathanial and welcome indeed. I find that no matter how much space you appear to have its never quite enough, good luck with expanding your collection. Cheers Steve
  14. Some people use a vinegar test, drop sand in vinegar, shake for a few seconds to remove air, observe and bubbles indicate a reaction. Or if you have a decent PH meter (they are great and really useful, but good ones are expensive) you can make a slurry of sand in rainwater and test that. Cheers Steve
  15. The tall straight pitchers don't sound very Purpurea like, but in any case it would be a good idea to get it outside at this time of year so that dormancy doesn't come as a complete surprise to it. Cheers Steve