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About AKR

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  1. Here is a picture of a terrarium-grown N. maxima cutting, taken from my main plant which is windowsill-grown and was vining at the time:
  2. Welcome, looks a nice terrarium! Is the thing with the tube for cooling or humidity?
  3. I have a feeling there wouldn't be much difference, as long as the cutting is still green, but if there were to be a difference then taking the cuttings before the cold spell would be better. Being cut probably causes the cutting more stress than having experienced lower temperatures for a while beforehand though.
  4. If the temperature is heated then the outside temperatures shouldn't matter, unless I'm not entirely following here.
  5. I agree, and the discussion on the Polish forum I found that picture on seemed to be (up to the powers of Google translate) about whether Black Jack, shown on the right, is N. sanguinea or a mislabeled hybrid. From my own experience the upper pitchers of that dark form N. sanguinea are very much like those of other forms I have seen pictures of, losing their dark colouration and reverting to green/red. It would be interesting to know what the upper pitchers are like for Hannah's plant or Black Jack, maybe they revert to the more typical form too.
  6. Found a side-by-side picture of the dark form Matt sells (left) and Black Jack (right): Very characteristic elongated mouth on the left, and more pronounced widening at the middle. If I saw the pitcher on the right and had to guess, I'd say it looks something like the dark form of N. sanguinea crossed with a ventrata/Rebecca Soper, I'd be surprised if it turned out Black Jack was not a hybrid.
  7. Triffid nurseries has quite a specialised selection of pygmy Drosera: http://www.triffidnurseries.co.uk/browse_products_in_cat.php?pt_id=2&cid=7
  8. Possibly due to the seasonality of our light levels? It's often the case that leaves produced under a certain set of conditions don't like change, for example leaves produced under low light conditions will burn under high light, whereas leaves produced under intense light are more resistant to it.
  9. Yes - that's why the temperatures given can only really be a rough guide. A lot of factors start coming into play when you're dealing with direct sunlight, such as how sheltered from the wind the place is, how light-absorbent the surroundings are etc.
  10. There's an important point in there, that being that this doesn't account for whether the plants grow in more shaded or sunny areas. There can be quite a large difference in temperature between sitting in the sun and in the shade (hence people claiming it was 50C in their back garden, when really their thermometer was just sitting on a dark surface in bright sunlight). I suppose that would be the next level up for these charts' accuracy/use, although this would be a much harder task considering the need for precise habitat descriptions.
  11. I found that they can grow fairly well on a south-facing windowsill in the winter, although I can see you might have problems if you don't have that. Still, pseudo-dormancy is better than actual dormancy with these plants I'd imagine. I wouldn't expect the leaves to die back significantly unless the plant is too cold.
  12. No need to be giving D. capensis a dormancy, they'll grow year-round indoors.
  13. sorry, double post, not sure how to delete
  14. What minimum temperatures do you achieve in summer?
  15. The first one looks like there may have been some damage early in the leaf's development, and the others look like fairly old leaves. I might be wrong, but reddening like that on older leaves of N. truncata is quite normal - I have a plant this size and some of the older leaves redden a bit at the edges. Possibly the leaves were put out during the autumn/winter and have reacted this way to higher light levels? I don't think your plant has an infection though.