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About AKR

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  1. Nepenthes northiana

    You've got to get the image URL, which involves clicking on your image, then right clicking to 'open image in new tab', or just click 'copy image address' (not link) then you have the correct URL to post here. It is this: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VLggwAgkMcwfVrI4r4He4aopjdvP27Vqx26oVOedtA-OxQejlfN7vGqJ-1YZ6gnXl2cGwxIEPE1J6SQWPkMLeFe_DUhwlXOMmGv59DvTz74pUJSmDUnmLiyXXLpnyeuItlMxd68Vlc1pkwToRMXEoAJfPww6lBKkpfTjmRigTLFwleusNJ0McYjCvEG5d09ppzna558fJ2p-r_EXBjzA_gIHrp_CMYVIdfJr7MjzGnQwbEBjpc09VfPMh0B9j51xzp5XfB5U3zCT9dAzlN-LHclv3Vo3xb1pxyl3vrGBLlbsyZMrWxTmRiEQ6a_ToedWXlEl3PIffO6zRuZMePsxoVbFZY0s6b23ORsJsMfGTYSgP_K3Dj6PByRhNyfHwyZwp0qPHPZTqsC5R3KWrWimX7GfwumhsEESpEM96K0ByPij97NcoGFU5FYZvwszbjTbm0ycXJyKI347uYtiMqJcqfpYqBv6YPvr69URxaMJ7Z8e_zdjx3hVbHTPnOxFA4hgMrYWfYBtwb0sj-h5Yo2dTsL9ObiNpxJa7NBvaHJFrQ0YEZ7KVgiXkMtJH6Y039dYHBDoUG_4WVWkDjwlucj2pgwQP-SuBWS2h08NeSddymSLz2tsIa69f14_i6D4CJM8IRm8XxQMmFKFT_EOjS64XSHo97KWXBhAF4_5kq2YtZq44g=w554-h794-no Which automatically shows as this: There isn't a limit on externally hosted images, but there is a (measly) limit to uploading images directly to this forum.
  2. N.Truncata

    My form isn't particularly slow. Its first basal offshoot grew very quickly. It slows down a bit with smaller pitchers, if any, in the winter with less light; I just keep it on a windowsill. For a mature vine the space between the leaves isn't huge, maybe about 5cm at the most, not much considering how thick the vines get. I recommend getting one with good colouration as people have pointed out.
  3. Nepenthes wanted, cuttings, anything

    I have some rooted cuttings of N. maxima and N. sanguinea, £5 each plus postage (£4.50, can put two in parcel if you want) if you're interested (not back home until the end of next week though, I can send a picture of them then).
  4. Nepenthes maxima

    Here is a picture of a terrarium-grown N. maxima cutting, taken from my main plant which is windowsill-grown and was vining at the time:
  5. Lurker

    Welcome, looks a nice terrarium! Is the thing with the tube for cooling or humidity?
  6. Best time to take Nepenthes cuttings.

    I have a feeling there wouldn't be much difference, as long as the cutting is still green, but if there were to be a difference then taking the cuttings before the cold spell would be better. Being cut probably causes the cutting more stress than having experienced lower temperatures for a while beforehand though.
  7. Best time to take Nepenthes cuttings.

    If the temperature is heated then the outside temperatures shouldn't matter, unless I'm not entirely following here.
  8. I agree, and the discussion on the Polish forum I found that picture on seemed to be (up to the powers of Google translate) about whether Black Jack, shown on the right, is N. sanguinea or a mislabeled hybrid. From my own experience the upper pitchers of that dark form N. sanguinea are very much like those of other forms I have seen pictures of, losing their dark colouration and reverting to green/red. It would be interesting to know what the upper pitchers are like for Hannah's plant or Black Jack, maybe they revert to the more typical form too.
  9. Found a side-by-side picture of the dark form Matt sells (left) and Black Jack (right): Very characteristic elongated mouth on the left, and more pronounced widening at the middle. If I saw the pitcher on the right and had to guess, I'd say it looks something like the dark form of N. sanguinea crossed with a ventrata/Rebecca Soper, I'd be surprised if it turned out Black Jack was not a hybrid.
  10. Triffid nurseries has quite a specialised selection of pygmy Drosera: http://www.triffidnurseries.co.uk/browse_products_in_cat.php?pt_id=2&cid=7
  11. Possibly due to the seasonality of our light levels? It's often the case that leaves produced under a certain set of conditions don't like change, for example leaves produced under low light conditions will burn under high light, whereas leaves produced under intense light are more resistant to it.
  12. Yes - that's why the temperatures given can only really be a rough guide. A lot of factors start coming into play when you're dealing with direct sunlight, such as how sheltered from the wind the place is, how light-absorbent the surroundings are etc.
  13. There's an important point in there, that being that this doesn't account for whether the plants grow in more shaded or sunny areas. There can be quite a large difference in temperature between sitting in the sun and in the shade (hence people claiming it was 50C in their back garden, when really their thermometer was just sitting on a dark surface in bright sunlight). I suppose that would be the next level up for these charts' accuracy/use, although this would be a much harder task considering the need for precise habitat descriptions.
  14. Drosera capensis lifespan

    I found that they can grow fairly well on a south-facing windowsill in the winter, although I can see you might have problems if you don't have that. Still, pseudo-dormancy is better than actual dormancy with these plants I'd imagine. I wouldn't expect the leaves to die back significantly unless the plant is too cold.
  15. Drosera capensis lifespan

    No need to be giving D. capensis a dormancy, they'll grow year-round indoors.