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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    The wet season brings out lots of carnivores on my place, it's a natural habitat for many of them. Getting photos of CPs can be a daunting task, often on knees and elbows in water and/or mud. Where there's no surface water I'm often on my belly on wet ground. Anyway, that's my excuse for some of the photos being poor quality. This is what I've managed to find here this past wet season. Byblis aquatica, which is fairly common. The first CPs to come up early in the wet season are Drosera fulva. Wasn't able to take photos earlier on so none of plants flowering. D. fulva winding down for the season. Still find it a bit difficult pinpointing the difference between Drosera dilitatopetiolaris and D. petiolaris. But fairly sure mine are dilitatopetiolaris. Drosera burmannii is probably the least wide spread Drosera on my place. Being so small they tend to get sand particles splashed onto them. Of the Indica Complex Drosera D. nana is the most common and earliest grower. The first one has what looks like a Setocoris insect on it. They manage to rob food from the plants without getting caught themselves. Drosera aquatica, also very widspread on my place, even coming up in lawns in some parts. Drosera fragrans, the last species of Drosera to get going in the wet season. Widespread, but not as common as the other two. There's more Utric species here than other CPs. Most widespread (also one of the most inconspicuous) is Utricularia nivea. they seem to come up everywhere except in standing water. Far less common and about the same size are Utricularia minutissima. Utricularia leptoplectra is very common but only in wet swampy areas. Utricularia leptorhyncha occupies less wet areas than leptoplectra but seems to need sub-surface seepage. There's one large patch of Utricularia odorata, a smaller patch seems to have disappeared. Utricularia chrysantha also seems to prefer wet soil but no surface water. It's a later starter and keeps going after most other Utrics have disappeared. First time I found Utricularia foveolata on my place was this last wet season. initially didn't know which species it was, but when finally getting around to identifying it I realised it was rare. Going back to try and get more photos I wasn't able to locate any more plants. So unfortunately there's only this one fairly poor photo.
  2. 3 points
    I'm quite proud of these out of 25 seeds i think i've done quite well
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  5. 2 points
    Nobody seems to have mentioned Chelsea on the forum, unless I’ve missed it somewhere. The Society and myself were awarded silver-gilt, and Hampshire CP and Wack’s Wicked Plants we’re both awarded gold. Regards Nigel H-C
  6. 2 points
    Séléction Reptile RMT giant Lézard vert Lunatic fringe Phalanx Velke cerven pasti E Diable rouge Ghost Mirror Bec de lièvre Mirror Triple feuilles
  7. 2 points
    If you stratify, don't just put the seeds in the fridge, this is not stratification (in fact you should be storing just about ALL your seeds in the fridge!). Sow them in a pot of wet medium and put the pot in the fridge. In order to stratify, the seeds should have swelled up with water first, which is why refrigerating dry seed does not work. If you're in doubt, what I always do is split the pack in half, plant TWO pots, put one in the fridge for 4-6 weeks, and the other one straight in its growing environment. If you're lucky the warm pot will have good germination as well and you end up with two! :) As stated fresh seed often germinates well without stratification. M.
  8. 1 point
    Ampullaria love it at 28-30c day and 21c night, because of the ventricosa parentage it makes it more tolerant to cooler temperatures but with ampullaria parentage it'll still slow growth in highland temps and quickly decline at 12c and lower nights, hence how brown it is compared to the others. Bloody mary is an indoor windowsill plant, i mean ventrata and rebecca soper are too but they can also be grown outside in uk weather but bloody mary needs those warmer indoor temperatures. edit: its also worth noting that larger nepenthes dont acclimatize as well as small ones, once they grow and get established in their environment they dont like it changed. Its also worth noting the ventricosa x ampullaria has suffered the most being intermediate x "ultra" lowlander (there are highland varieties but theyre rare in cultivation), ventricosa x alata intermediate x intermediate 2nd and ventricosa x ramispina intermediate x highland isnt showing as much damage since it can grow with 10c nights. https://www.carnivorousplants.co.uk/resources/nepenthes-interactive-guide/#elevation this might help you with temperature ranges for your hybrids
  9. 1 point
    Bill Bailey is on order and I've got my tray for catching water all ready and set up on my (usually) sunny SW facing window, alongside my s. purpurea and VFT. I've read a few times about the pebble method as a way to better allow for the medium to drain and to increase humidity; I think it should add a little to the setup aesthetically too. Very excited for this plant to arrive!
  10. 1 point
    Well talangensis itself loves sunlight, im told a lot of sunlight is required to grow this finicky plant. I havent had any scorching of my talan x gland or any other talangensis hybrid yet where i have some other hybrids at the moment. It should be all right, as soon as you spot red dots on the leaves or some leaves are going red slowly, just give it less and perhaps over time it might start creating paler leaves with less chlorophyll to cope so they dont burn.
  11. 1 point
    I wouldnt recommend ventricosa x hamata, even with ventricosa parentage it still has certain needs and its pretty expensive compared to others. For about that price or a little more you could get one of the nepenthes collections instead. Personally I dont like the pitchers of x ventrata, I think the alata takes away too much ventricosa. Cheap and very easy as a windowsill grower though. Ventricosa x sibuyanensis is pretty nice, mine has just opened a new pitcher with a warm pink upper, orange bottom and a baby pink peristome. I'd recommend ventricosa, sanguinea, x rebecca soper (very fast grower), NC001 or NC4126 (x bloody mary is very fast in LL conditions, will grow in highland but hates the cold), NC006, NC009 (3 great easy plants there), ventricosa x glandulifera (both easy parents), robcantleyi x (aristolochioides x spectabilis) (nice fast hybrid), x bill bailey, ventricosa x robcantleyi (should be easy and matt told me last month hes sold ones with 30cm pitchers)
  12. 1 point
    Yep motorbikes for me too, either pulling them apart or riding them that is my only other hobby.
  13. 1 point
    Me too Ada, I also refer to them as parents depending on the mood. There's other things but it is horticulture that rocks my little world! Various forms of exercise and then recovery lol takes up some more of my time and then eating, I'm really a big fan of eating. I like eating very much, even cooking and washing up, if it's to do with eating I'm on board :)
  14. 1 point
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  16. 1 point
    Sarracenia 'Brooks Hybrid' x S' Leah wilkerson' Clone n°4 Heliamphora neblinae (Cerro Neblina) AW clone Drosera regia Pinguicula lusitanica
  17. 1 point
    Hello everyone after my very long absence! Since there are couple days of holidays in Poland I've decided to devote a little bit of free time and take some pictures. Heliamphora pulchella "Very large & very hairy" (Amuri Tepui) While still quite young and small, this plant starts showing some nice pulchella characteristics. Doesn't look very well at the moment but I believe it'll get there with time. Heliamphora huberi (Angasima Tepui) Very nice and elegant clone of H. huberi. Refused to grow for me for a year or so but tough times are finally over with the appearance of new nice growth. Heliamphora "Flamingo" Ok, there's no need to talk much about this abominable plant. Picture says it all :) Heliamphora exappendiculata "Giant bubble" (Aprada Tepui) There's always a good time to show fresh pictures of The Monster. A bit boring, maybe, but I simply adore this plant!
  18. 1 point
    Hello, I have had both in cultivation for many years now. I treat both of them the same, which involves growing them in an unheated greenhouse, which regularly gets frost bound each year, using the tray method as per Cephalotus. I think S. caespitosum is one of the easiest sps to grow in our UK conditions. Frost hardy. flowers every year. Robust. Hope this helps? Andy
  19. 1 point
    This time there will be few more plants that are appearing here for the first time. Heliamphora nutans (Kukenan Tepui) Very flat growing form of this species - growth habit which isn't amongst my favourites :) Heliamphora x [exappendiculata x ionasi] - M. Stelmach clone 3 Very nice hybrid and my first clone to reach maturity. I'm curious how big it will get. Heliamphora exappendiculata (Amuri Tepui) Typical form of exappendiculata from Amuri with atypical coloration :) You're getting some shade soon Exie, no worries! :) Heliamphora "Clash of the Titans" The hybrid which is supposed to be quite famous but I find it pretty unpopular. The parents are H. ionasi "Killer Giant 1" and H. tatei. It's not very big plant at the moment but I'm expecting a monster. Heliamphora elongata "Bubble Lid" (Karaurin Tepui) Today's highlight I believe and surely one of my favourite helis already. While I like them slender and compact, this species matches these preferences, but only in certain conditions - when it's freezing cold and windy on Tepui. Otherwise leaves are growing more freely and have slightly different shape. That means H. elongata is heterophyllous - the only Heliamphora species that does such thing :)
  20. 1 point
    I have two terarriums currently; one set up for lowland with heat lamps and a heat mat in the base and the other is set up with just fluorescent lights to minimise heat build up. Both of them share two T5 'plant pro' fluorescent lights and a fogger. I must admit there's nothing special about them but the Nepenthes seem to be quite happy these last couple of years. Only trouble is a couple of them are starting to get quite big and vine so I'll be changing to a grow tent at some point.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Vince! After longer period of absence in terms of adding new pictures on forums, here's finally new batch: Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui) - A. Smith clone Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui) - M. Schach clone The extraordinary clone of this species and one of my 2 favourite uncinata clones. I couldn't help it - took far too many pictures of the plant, but hey, I don't get to work with such models every day! :) Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) - A. Wistuba clone If anyone happens to recognize the clone number of this plant, I'll be grateful :) Heliamphora purpurascens (Ptari Tepui) - BCP clone 36/33 Very interesting clone with quite atypical nextar spoon (triangular and elevated) when it comes to this species. Heliamphora x [elongata x ionasi] x self (Tramen Tepui) /a.k.a. H. nutans (Tramen) x ionasi?/ Very old cross which I got under 2 different names. Wistuba was selling it in early 2000s (that's when I got it) as Heliamphora nutans (Tramen) x ionasi. Then, I believe it was 2-3 years ago I received Heliamphora x [elongata x ionasi] x self which happened to look the same as my old plant. I was told it's an old Wistuba clone. Certainly the "old" name is not the correct one (knowing it's a natural hybrid) as H. nutans doesn't occur anywhere near Tramen Tepui. The only possibilities are H. arenicola and H. elongata. This way I'll rather stick with the elongata x ionasi being the main name for this plant until I gain further data. Any new information on this hybrid's naming issue would be highly appreciated!
  22. 1 point
    N. ampullaria doing it's thing
  23. 1 point
    So, after two years plant got bigger and finally turned out to be a female of N. aristolochioides x mira (also known as N. 'Involuntary Bliss')...
  24. 1 point
    I have a few Cephalotus, all in ceramic pots of my own desighn. My first attempt was this one Some investigation changed this desighn after one year. So it had to be repotted This special material is able to soak up the water, usually you do achieve this by low firing in the kiln, about 800-950 C° Mine is fired at 1200 C° The actual planting medium is a bit higher up, that there is no chance for decay because of suffocation.
  25. 1 point
    Believe it or not, if you're careful you can use straight up water in a sealed container. Works best with test tubes or something that the seeds won't stick to the sides of the jar and dry out. I'd try putting a few seeds in a cup and then pouring water over it so they are submerged. Some species' seeds are stubborn though. When the strat period is over, fish them out of the jar and onto fresh media. Sure beats moldy algae-infested sphagnum peat stratification :) good luck