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  1. 12 likes
    Hi we were very pleased to get a silver gilt medal at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show this year. Here is our display. Both Nigel Hewitt-Cooper and Matthew Soper received golds! cheers Dennis
  2. 11 likes
    Nameless lake near Kościerzyna (Pomerania region) Menyanthes trifoliata Comarum palustre Drosera rotundifolia Drosera angica D. x obovata
  3. 10 likes
    S. 'Ellie Wang' is one of the most unbelievable plants I've ever seen, photos taken 5/5/17:
  4. 9 likes
    Hey there, I thought it was time for me to introduce in this thread my new terrarium. It will be more 'techy' than 'planty', so if you are expecting mainly pictures of plants here, well, you'll be pretty disappointed. I started over 6 months ago with this new project, as I had to stop growing carnivorous plants and put away my former terrarium. I hope it will meet the same success as its elder brother. The previous one was already running with a RPi, but its use wasn't maxed out. Here we go, the result as it was a few weeks ago: Basically, it's a small terrarium (65x55x65) dedicated to grow highland carnivorous plants, but also, to answer my needs as a grower: autonomous, tailored set up with remote monitoring. Handy, transportable by one person, and good-looking (enough). Almost bearable in a living room, i.e, not giving away too quickly a vibe of 'eccentricity'. But behind the scene, it's a different kettle of fish. I bought the glass panes, and started to drill them. The holes will be used for aquarium tubing: Practising: Then starting with actual panes: Watering the area of interest: Then: The silicone used to joint the terrarium together: A bit messy: Top pane set up. I stuck the first rail for sliding panes. Wait of 24h. Then final jointing and installation of the through-tank connectors. 48h wait, and leak test : I built a small tank made of 2 cm styrofoam to contribute to insulate the cooled water from the outside of the terrarium. The aim was to prevent cold losses and reduce outside condensation on the window: Second profile rail drying: As a side note, the bottom profile rail is smaller than the top one, allowing easy removal of the sliding panes : Slicing off a gutter, so to make support for gratings : To water the plant wall, I set up a pierce hose on top of it: Stuck hose: Cheeky bubble: Same goes with the tree fern panels: I made a tank for the fogging system, as well as two shelves (one for the tank, one for the watercooling radiator): The shelves: Final test: Now, about the lighting system. In short, I wanted LEDs, as they have more opportunities for playing around. They can be dimmed and can have precise wavelengths. So it's possible to roughly mimic sunrise/sunset. I used several small ones instead of few big ones because I wanted passive cooling (silent installation), and not being forced to have fans running on top of big LEDs to have them cooled down. I bought MK-R LEDs and no-name ones (blue: 440-445, 430-435nm and red: 660nm), all powered around 4W. The MK-R as I received them: The first step is to mount the MK-R on their individual PCB: I spread solder paste on the PCB: I did reflow soldering, by making solder paste melt between the PCB and the LED. Information about the specifications on how to carry out this process can be found on the MK-R datasheet: Useful thermometer (there wasn't any LED on the pan at the time I took this picture): Then, I drilled and mounted some heatsinks together: I added some tin to make the connecting easy: Thermal paste and other tools: The beginning: (there was actually a mistake in this wiring at the time of the picture) Finally: White: Yellow: Red: Blue: Warm effect (morning): Winter-is-coming effect: A bit of an overkill, but in case, some fans to help the heatsinks dissipate the heat: How the lighting system is fixed. Inspired from aquarium hobby: Funny trick - how to adjust the height of the lighting system: The fusebox, when I was still tinkering with the RPi: The cooling system (below 13°C at night and no higher than 25°C during the day): The cooling unit: The connectors: The watercooling radiator: The heating system is based on a heating pad and a fan (that I also use for the fogging system, and all day long to promote air circulation): The fogging system, with classic mist makers: The watering system is composed of 4 nozzles: And a pump: And for the geeky part, the Raspberry Pi to rule them all. This is the micro-controller (small computer) which manages all the devices related to the terrarium. Good news, you can do almost everything you want. Bad news, the RPi won't program itself: I connected several sensors and other hardware resources to it. To have something neat, I designed a printed circuit board (PCB). Yep, the schematic is quite messy: Rendering this after milling (a friend of mine milled it for me): I soaked it into liquid tin: Then, components' supports: Tropicoat coating: In the end, more or less: A webcam on top of the terrarium: Which gives this kind of snapshot (I consider doing time-lapse, as soon as I don't have plastic bags on top of some plants. I removed them for the sake of the pictures): How to command the devices ? Using relays. I had some that I very recently replaced with wireless (radio/433 Mhz) ones. The emitter: The relay: A receiver (to copy radio signals, or for instance, coupled with a remote controller to switch off the terrarium): Family picture: And not-so-useful remote controllers, as everything is managed by the RPi. They bypass the RPi (as they send the same signals as the RPi do), so, I can turn on/off a device without having to use the RPi, and without tampering with the rules I set up. I just have to ensure that I put the device back in its original state after I'm done operating it. About coding, I had a first version which was working but far from being optimised. The crucial upgrade was made possible thanks to Clément Lefranc, who gave me his entire code. He is the one who takes the credit. Thanks to his gesture, I could start from a working base that I adapted to my own needs. As you might be assuming, I have developed a website to better introduce the terrarium. Almost finished with it, just left with a few things to correct. It will be more convenient to look up for any information related to the terrarium, as I'm afraid there are too many pictures on this topic. But in case of major update, I'll make sure to put the info into this topic as well, so that the gist is always presented here. That was all for the initial investment. Then, what is interesting is to watch how the plants will react to all this attention. Especially in the long run, as, when it comes to growing, that is the only thing which matters in my opinion. And the more it is complex, the more it's likely to break down somewhere. But I'll keep you updated. At least, the start is successfully completed: believe me, it could have not been so. I hope it might give ideas to some of you. Vince P.S: I still can't get my hand on the 'preview button'. Has it totally disappeared? Is there any way to have it back?
  5. 9 likes
    A few days ago it came to our attention that a CPUK member had stated they had a Sarracenia cultivar S. ‘Waccamaw’ (which happens to be a crossing between two S. flava var atropurpurea plants) illegally imported into Europe. This member was subsequently banned from CPUK. The reason for the ban was two-fold. Firstly, no Phytosanitary Certificate was obtained. Apart from being a legal requirement, these inspections are needed for international trading to prevent the spread of pests and diseases (such as the Sarracenia rhizome boring pest). Secondly, all Sarracenia species are protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), with S. flava (and this was a flava) being listed under Appendix II. No export and import permits were obtained for this plant. The member admitted to it being smuggled in the mail. As a few members requested to be placed on a waiting list for this plant at the time, it is worth pointing out that it is not just the one plant that may be seized by the authorities and destroyed. The whole collection in which the plant resides can be seized, as can collections of people who have received a illegally traded piece. Please take a moment to think about that. Was it really worth that risk? CPUK has always taken a strong stance against illegal trading, whether a plant was removed from the wild or was reproduced by seed. The Carnivorous Plant Society has conservation at it’s very heart, and this also extends to hoping we can protect our territories from foreign pests and diseases. Let us all try to not give our hobby a bad name.
  6. 9 likes
    I really just want to say thumbs up for the admins and moderators working hard on this forum, esp now with the new update. :) Your hard work is very much appreciated and helps us a lot with growing our carnivorous plants. One can never give too many compliments! Thanks guys! It had to be said.
  7. 7 likes
    A few specimens from Mike's open day. :) A Someone even fancied a dip in the pond! Lol
  8. 7 likes
    Nepenthes lowii (Gunung Trusmadi, Borneo)
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    A few more shots of a drosera site Drosera rotundifolia Drosera anglica What looks like x obovata but i am not 100% sure as iv never seen them at this site or anywhere for that matter! Hope you enjoyed the pictures Dan
  10. 5 likes
    i think we should be able to have our say and discuss anything we want to,you don't have to read it or reply. Moderators can step in and calm things down if need be,we are all or mostly adults and have views that vary,discussion is good,it helps us understand other people. It can even lead to new friendships,we don't need a big brother type of forum. ada
  11. 5 likes
    Just a few shots from the greenhouse. Still quite a lot of colouring up to do. I will try and add the rest of the labels to the pictures this evening. Oreophila sand mountain x Flava atrop blackwater Oreophila sand mountain x Flava atrop blackwater Kent Carnivores Darlingtonia Inverse vein catesbai S. Moorei “Brooks's hybrid” orange clone (Ipx33) Oreophila Sand mountain x Flava atrop blackwater clone 1 Oreophila Sand mountain x Flava atrop blackwater clone 1 'Asbo' 'Asbo' F102 MK 'Leah Wilkerson' 'Helen Mary' 'John David King' 'Praetorian Guard' 'Praetorian Guard' 'Mutant 1' 'Archangel' H24 SFVF F42 M5 x Flava var. ornata x F35 (MK) x flava var. ornata 'Horyna' Wilkerson Red x Wilkerson Red (Rubra Alabamensis x Rubra Jonesi) and SF81 Rubricorpra x ornata (Insektenfang) Wilkerson Red x Wilkerson Red (Rubra Alabamensis x Rubra Jonesi) and SF81 Rubricorpra x ornata (Insektenfang) Typical Cephalotus 'Pinkish top' L111 'Red stripe' 'Goldie' 'Timothy King' 'Timothy King' 'Timothy King' 'Timothy King' 'Elizabeth Aydon' 'Elizabeth Aydon' 'Whale throat' 'Whale throat' 'Whale Throat' 'Whale Throat' 'Pink Thing' 'Splatter Pattern' Seedling 11 Seedling 1 Seedling 1 'Cooper Vase' H326 ISE Hybrid (MK) and 'Copper vase' Seedling 2 Seedling 2 'Helen Mary' 'Helen Mary' Seedling 3 Seedling 4 'Alucard' 'Beryl' Seedling 5 Seedling 6 Seedling 7 Seedling 8 Seedling 8 'Beetles Bonnet' 'Johhny Marr' 'Johhny Marr' 'Johhny Marr' 'Skywatcher' 'Skywatcher' 'Beetles Bonnet Son' F55 MK Flava v. rubricorpora x flava var. ornata (insektenfang) 'Arthur Wheeler' 'Arthur Wheeler' Seedling 9 Seedling 9 'Ruth Realff' Ornata 'Potterton and Martin' & M Ornata 'Potterton and Martin' F102 F102 F190 ' David Richardson' 'Esme Cowlard'
  12. 5 likes
    Just a few snaps of my darlingtonia now the pitchers are looking a bit better. They have been moved this year and are now in a greenhouse of their own. paler Josephine county plant normally goes yellow in intense light. This one normally gains some good red heads in decent light Giant form from insektenfang plants is showing some promise this year! F. Viridiflora 'othello' again gained some good size over last year's growth which can be seen at the bottom of the pics. Thanks for looking and hope you enjoyed them. Will be posting more snaps here as they progress through the season. Dan
  13. 5 likes
    After a year or two of neglect and some bad growing decisions, starting to slowly recover... a tricolour clone, An all red clone from southern thailand.
  14. 5 likes
    Thanks elvis, pmatil Nepenthes ventrinermis (N. inermis x N. ventricosa) Nepenthes ventricosa (Philippines) Nepenthes alba Nepenthes bokorensis (location C, Cambodia) Nepenthes glabrata
  15. 4 likes
    Nepenthes sibuyanensis x merrilliana Nepenthes bicalcarata Nepenthes mirabilis var globosa Nepenthes sibuyanensis x Lady Pauline Nepenthes bokorensis (location C, Cambodia) Nepenthes spectabilis x burkei Nepenthes maxima x ventricosa Nepenthes boschiana (Borneo)
  16. 4 likes
    Some updates. Please excuse the quality of the pictures. They weren't taken by me.
  17. 4 likes
    Hello all together, here are some pictures of my Stylidium guttatum, where I make at June of this year. All the best, Johannes
  18. 4 likes
    Here,here. We were asked at the start of this topic WHAT WE THOUGHT,and we have answered, Everyone is thinking the same and said so,if you don't like what you read you are entitled to your say too, but on-line bullying? really! Michael had his say,and was man enough to reply,if you don't like the responses don't read them or turn off. Don't accuse us of group aggression,it was just an open discussion between serious cp growers,not something to run off and tell the teacher about. ada
  19. 3 likes
    Then please remove the 'talk about anything' part of the forum Dennis.
  20. 3 likes
    For the first time, i see sporophytes on some of my Sphagnum. The spore capsules are so small I barely noticed them. They grow on a thin species that ocassionaly manages to keep itself alive in a pot of a more robust species of Sphagnum. I think there are only 3 strands alive in that pot. I'm not sure but I assume the species is self fertile, i would be surprised if I had both a male and a female clone of that plant. I'll try and germinate the spores, just as experiment. Would be nice to see the moss develop, but I'm pretty sure it's not easy to make germaninate. Any tips are welcome!
  21. 3 likes
    South West Giant enjoying a lunch of the alien invader harlequin ladybird larvae.
  22. 3 likes
    sanguinea is my biggest pitcher nep: Obtained as a small cutting a few years ago and this year knocking out 9 inch monsters (for me). No special conditions, just hanging up in my conservatory which can hit 40 (or above) on days like today. Water drench and drain weekly but never spray or feed. Struggled with neps for years but have a few now that grow well in the conservatory or out in the greenhouse in summer. Just picked up a half-price pitcher-less Miranda from the local GC so hope that's a hardy grower too.
  23. 3 likes
    Heliamphora purpurascens (Ptari Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora huberi (Akopan Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora spec. Yuruani B Heliamphora nutans Heliamphora chimantensis (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora spec. nov. Akopan Heliamphora exappendiculata (Chimanta Tepui) Heliamphora exappendiculata (Apacapa Tepui)
  24. 3 likes
    Nepenthes robcantleyi Nepenthes spathulata Nepenthes Louisa Nepenthes Miranda Nepenthes maxima Lake Poso Nepenthes maxima Nepenthes sanguinea Nepenthes platychila Nepenthes alata (Surigao, Philippines) Nepenthes thorelii x (merrilliana x northiana)
  25. 3 likes
    A flat closed trap measures slightly longer than an open one ;)
  26. 3 likes
  27. 3 likes
    Perhaps @Hannahraptor could liase with @Trev regarding the complexities of running it the newer way to see if it's doable? I recall the older way was putting people off entering as once they saw the measurements on the entries the knew their trap already failed to beat it.
  28. 3 likes
    Hi all Here's the BBC2 video feature with Matt Soper from Hampshire Carnivorous Plants at the Chelsea Flower Show this year. I think we can all agree it was excellent.
  29. 3 likes
    Here are some of my seedlings Nepenthes ampullaria Nepenthes rafflesiana x northiana Nepenthes Hookeriana - much larger with the first pitchers
  30. 3 likes
    Found a side-by-side picture of the dark form Matt sells (left) and Black Jack (right): Very characteristic elongated mouth on the left, and more pronounced widening at the middle. If I saw the pitcher on the right and had to guess, I'd say it looks something like the dark form of N. sanguinea crossed with a ventrata/Rebecca Soper, I'd be surprised if it turned out Black Jack was not a hybrid.
  31. 3 likes
    Beautiful. I will see if I can take some new photo's this weekend. I really need to clean the glass on my coldframe to allow more light and get them to colour properly.
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  33. 3 likes
    There's no way this new interest is getting the better of me--oh no! But today I bought a 250 litre water butt and got it set up. Just after the rain had stopped! And my lovely wife is suggesting there must be a better way to display the plants. They are in individual pots in very boring plastic trays at the moment. Some purple bog pots (or whatever they might be called) may well be appearing soon. Advice may be needed. Not about the purple--we like purple! Just in case, I bought 75 litres of sphagnum moss peat and some perlite from a garden centre earlier today. Obviously it won't be used. Goodness, I've only got a few plants. No chance I'll need lots of peat and perlite. There's also no need for the large bag of live sphagnum moss I bought as well. Certainly I won't be buying any more plants. Won't ever be looking at Hannah's 'for sale' list again. So, I'm glad this new interest isn't taking my life over. Guy
  34. 3 likes
    Bit of a Welsh pinguicula overdose for everyone!!
  35. 3 likes
    Even if all the top growth goes don't give up on it they can grow back. Also go easy on the watering give a day or so before watering I know everyone has their own theories etc etc, but I find a gap of a day maybe two works fine. Their roots are long so the gap in watering keeps the crown on the dry side but the roots are moist I'm trying some in air pots they seem to be liking it James
  36. 3 likes
    This was my first ever CP a Venus flytrap. It has grown loads in 3 years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 3 likes
    Hi folks. At the request of a member, I've set up a new sub-forum for Sphagnum. You can find it on the main page under non-carnivorous plants. Regards
  38. 3 likes
  39. 3 likes
    Semi 2015 Phalanx Lézard vert boutures Semis sélection Crazy cup Sandokan (Melly)
  40. 3 likes
    Spring sundews Lakes near Kościerzyna - Łubiana (54°04'57.3"N 17°51'17.9"E; 54°05'01.6"N 17°51'35.8"E and 54°05'19.8"N 17°51'52.9"E) 1 2 Nuphar lutea Drosera rotundifolia Black Lake
  41. 3 likes
    Heliamphora pulchella (Akopan Tepui) Heliamphora parva GH clone Heliamphora tatei (Cerro Duida) Heliamphora minor Heliamphora huberi and H. pulchella from Amuri Tepui Heliamphora pulchella (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela)
  42. 3 likes
    2013 Largest Dionaea Trap Competition. OK, It's time again for the Biggest Trap Competition. Due to popular demand we have a few rule changes this year so please read them carefully before posting. 1st Prize for the winner is a Dionaea of your choice from www.vftshop.com 2nd Prize donated by Yuri (prized) is a Dm Ossweill Giant 3rd Prize donated by Guillaume (guillaume) is a Dm Lagrossaguigui The competition is open to anyone worldwide but the prizes can only be sent within Europe. The rules are: The trap must be photographed parallel to the camera, with a clear plastic ruler (in millimetres) in front of the trap, the trap is to be measured across the side just below the teeth, the teeth are NOT included in the measurement. Like this: This picture must then be PM'ed to me, (link in my profile) or Emailed to trev[at]vftshop[dot]com. A second picture must be taken without the ruler and immediately posted to this thread. I will post all the measured pictures on the thread on the closing date so we can see who the winner is. Maximum image size of no larger than 850 x 850 pixels. Pictures must be taken this year. You can enter as many times as you like. Competition ends September 30th. May the biggest trap win! Trev :)
  43. 3 likes
    Nepenthes albomarginata Red Striped (Penang, Peninsular Malaysia) Nepenthes ampullaria
  44. 3 likes
    Nepenthes vogelii Nepenthes stenophylla Nepenthes spathulata x robcantleyi Nepenthes sibuyanensis x merrilliana
  45. 3 likes
    I take exception to at least one thing state as fact, you can and do receive female tc plants from BE, wistuba et al. I know because I have some. BE started selling tc clones long before they knew what sex they where and its likely the same for wistuba, as nobody waits for plants to mature and flower (and therefore find out its sex) before starting to sell the plants. You also seem a bit confused about black truncatas vs robcantleyii and the likely price that seed grown plants will fetch, after all many of the big nurseries sell seed grown plants at very reasonable prices, good quality seeds can be found on ebay. I'm not seeing any evidence that your 'educating' people! I can see evidence that your using cheap sales tactics to sell overpriced plants to the ignorant.
  46. 3 likes
    1]> Non forum members can not see the Sales & Wants Forums. This includes guests, banned and validating members. 2]> New members can not see the Sales & Wants Forums until they have been a member here for 30 days at which time they will become a Full Member and gain full access to these forums. The following's been added to the Sales & Wants Rules. There is no debate on these and they will not be changed. Rules for trading on CPUK Trading on the forum is totally done at your own risk. This means the Owner the Administrators and the Moderators of CPUK Forum will not be held responsible for any trades that go wrong. Members are not allowed to post more than two sales topics in a 7 day period. Members can not reply to any topics. PM or Email the seller to ask questions. Guidelines for trading on CPUK Do some checks on the member you are about to trade with. If you are trading with a new member always make sure you receive the money or goods before you pay or send goods to them. Always report a bad trader.
  47. 2 likes
    Got to germinate first! Lol. I watched a few YouTube videos, so with a bit of luck they'll do something! :)
  48. 2 likes
    Both substrates work very well, their use depends on species preference and plant growing conditions - mainly on the way and intensity of watering. In my greenhouse Nepenthes better are growon in the mix for epiphytes (the substrate with organic and mineral components), it offers very stable conditions, and is significantly more fertile than that of alive Sphagnum moss. The substrate of alive Sphagnum moss is very poor in nutrients, because most of the available nutrients take sphagnum mosses and with time tends to become too compact and retain too much water. Species that require constant very high humidity of the substrate (wet substrate) I cultivate in the living Sphagnum.
  49. 2 likes
    Hi everyone, Now that my Terrarium is up and running I thought I should introduce it properly and show you the steps of the build along the way, which may help to inspire others to create similar projects. I used to have a small terrarium, which consisted of an old 45x30x25cm fish tank, lit by a 6400K 45W spiral compact fluorescent. It worked ok and the light certainly was powerful enough just to grow plants but it had problems with keeping the heat under control, keeping the water conditions stable and inevitably; I simply ran out of space! Last year I found a larger, second-hand fish tank and soon put together the idea of an LED build for a more hi-tech and efficient terrarium to allow my plants to really thrive. Here, finally is the result of my setup... It's a 75cm x 32cm x 39cm grow space that's warm and humid - in order for me to grow tropical species year round. I went with 55x 3W star LEDs, comprising 28x Cool white and 27x Warm white in equal spacing. The LEDs came from Michael Houlder at FutureEden (via his ebay shop). He's a great guy and helped me with my initial questions into LED wiring and electronics. I needed a heatsink to mount the LEDs to and also to form the entire hood of my terrarium. After a lot of searching around, I opted for a custom-made, black-annodised aluminium heatsink from Birmingham Aluminium (http://www.bal-group.com/home). They were very helpful and communicative to discuss my needs and clarified the thermal properties of the heatsink would successfully handle the proposed 55x 3W LED heat load. This was the single most expensive item in the entire build, but was critical to ensure I had a lasting terrarium with safe temperatures. The heatsink sits perfectly flush with the top, left and right sides of the tank, but has a very small 1cm air gap at the back - providing a small but useful exchange of fresh air as well as some space for any wiring to go into, or out of, the tank. Here's the heatsink, with a pair of T-bar handles installed so that I can lift the hood off (relatively) easily... The spacing for the LEDs was carefully checked using a handy PAR calculator via an excel spreadsheet. This had been set up for aquarium enthusiasts to calculate that the proposed spread of light would achieve a desired PAR level. If I remember correctly, I shot for a PAR around 2000, which is close to full sunlight (aim high, right!) LED's glued in place with thermal adhesive... With the spacing sorted, I then planned the wiring, making sure it was as neat and efficient as possible but still allowing for an even distribution of cool and warm white. The two 'sets' of LEDs are run on different drivers so I have the option of having the Warm and/or Cool white banks on at any one time. This also allows for future adjustment to light schedules and time overlaps. The wire used is silicon-sheathed which is heat proof and highly flexible. Planning the wiring.. Main wiring paths soldered in place... First test of the drivers and warm white LEDs... Wow, extremely bright and painful to look at. A stopped-down photograph shows the individual LEDs better than our blinded eyes can see.. Here is the hood in place with tested lights on - remember this is still only the warm white set (half the total)... Time to wire and test the Cool white set... All LEDs on together (camera stopped down to be able to see properly)... (The yellow wire is an earth - connected all the way to the plug earth and will be attached to the aluminium hood for safety in case of any wiring faults that may occur) Full brightness over the tank... My original ideal PAR calculations, incorporated the use of 30° lenses in order to direct the LED light efficiently downwards onto the plants. At this stage I hadn't installed them yet and it is quite clear that a lot of light is being wasted in all directions. The following composite photo shows the light spill of the LEDs by highlighting what little effect the main room light had when on or off! If you look at the carpet, you can see the bands of shadowing as the different rows of LEDs catch the edge of the sideboard... I glued each individual lens on as the holders they come with did not offer a good enough fit, especially with the soldered wires in place. I discovered that stacks of 2p coins formed the perfect sized weight whilst the epoxy was setting. (I opted for epoxy as the chemicals in superglue can apparently fog up the clear lenses!)... With all the lenses in place, the light spread is much more defined inside the tank with very little over spill outside.. Out of curiosity, I placed my phone into the bottom of the tank (35cm from the lights) and took a light level reading using it's inbuilt sensor... 38,000 lux; equivalent to sunlight! This was by no means a scientifically precise reading, but it was an excellent sign for me. Before filling up with water and introducing plants, I was concerned that all of my careful wiring and expenditure was at risk of corrosion from the high humidity conditions. Therefore I decided to fabricate a 'light shield' from 3mm perspex sheet. I checked the specifications and light transmittance is 92% - I could afford to lose 8% light in order to protect my hard work. The shield is simply a box-like structure of epoxy jointed perspex, mounted to the aluminium with clear silicone sealant. I left the threaded rods long, that come from the handles above and allowed them to pass through the perspex by drilling holes. This gives me options to attach anything to the rods in future, and they do not interfere with the light spread... Now the terrarium was safe and ready to start thinking about plants. I placed some eggcrate in the bottom, in order to allow me to have a 'reserve' of water in the bottom of the tank for stability, humidity and for the ultrasonic fogger to use... Here is the fogger in place. The eggcrate is elevated by a series of upturned 8cm net pots, which are rigid enough to hold whilst being fairly open to allow water to pass freely through... Following Tom Bennet's tutorials, I was able to introduce a Raspberry Pi system into the terrarium, constantly monitoring temp and humidity and allow for the use of autonomous mains sockets. Here is the 'powerhouse' (the raspberry pi)... It reads temperature and humidity via an AM2302 sensor, connected via CAT5 ethernet cable (placed well out of the way of the splashing ultrasonic fogger!!)... You can view live readings from my terrarium here... https://thingspeak.com/channels/149828 The fogger is connected to an Energenie RF controlled mains socket, which is triggered by the Raspberry pi every hour at one minute past, for a duration of six minutes (day and night). This gives a boost to humidity, yet is unobtrusive and dramatically extends the life of the disc in the ultrasonic fogger as it is effectively only operational for 144 minutes in a 24 hour period. The constant RH monitoring means that the raspberry Pi can be set to trigger the fogger based on a desired humidity range, but I don't think this is necessary for me at the moment. The last object I added to the system was a simple aquarium algae magnet, which sits permanently in the top left corner of the front glass. This allows me to wipe the front pane clear of any condensation if/when I want to be able to see clearly inside... That's the whole setup so far. It's been challenging at times but very fun and extremely rewarding to learn along the way. I am more than happy with the results and the effect already on the plants living inside. My next post will show the plants inside.
  50. 2 likes
    Still some pics DSCN3585_zps7eb16la0 by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3589_zpsqlor68pb by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3753_zpsr8aw6yg0 by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3723_zpsvddzwsce by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3814_zpsrayry9lj by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN4032_zpstdmjwhml by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN4037_zps8ta71aq7 by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3954_zpsic88aahq by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN3942_zpsiojwqpnd by frangelo54, su Flickr DSCN4006_zps00xpqzky by frangelo54, su Flickr