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  1. 5 points
    Hi I took some photos of my Nepenthes...hope you will enjoy it: N. copelandii - upper pitchers and behind lower pitcher N. truncata N. maxima (a got it like N. eymae) N. rajah N. burbidgeae - 2 different plants, upper pitcher ist just forming in behind Andrej
  2. 4 points
    Here are a few photos of the plants at the open day. Many thanks to Mike and Helen for another great day. Bought too many plants again, though . But we did get to see the famous motorbike!
  3. 4 points
    Haha, I totally don't mind you being my groupie! :) Big thanks for the information regarding the problematic hybrid. This means I got 2 more names to it :) While I already have the descriptions of both Schach's clones, I appreciate you posting this and trying to expand my knowledge :) Below couple new pictures of clones which I believe appear in this gallery for the first time: Heliamphora huberi (Amuri Tepui) - M. Schach clone Species which I believe to be underrated by many, therefore not too popular amongst collectors. I still like it a lot, especially the clone presented here which is the best huberi clone out there in my opinion. I'm in the process of figuring out whether this and "Bonnetia forest" clone are the same thing - I'll post my thoughts and observations in coming months. As for the coloration of this plant - I'm getting close to optimum when it comes to my personal taste - green leaves with subtle veining. I'll probably try with a bit stronger light to make more pointing downwards and bigger lids. Heliamphora ionasi "Striped" Ok, I've seen them all - "Striped", "Red Striped", "Heavily Red Striped". What other names will people come up with to these ionasi? "Ultra Heavily Red Striped"? Or perhaps also add an epithet "Giant" to it? It's so trendy these days to call everything "Giant". Not sure if all mentioned names refer to the very same clone but the one I have is a very solid ionasi and surely amongst the best. Under my current light conditions whole plant has orange hue with red veining - the way I like it best. Heliamphora parva "Extremely Hairy" (Cerro Neblina) Each leaf has slightly different length and density of outer hair and the younger ones presented on both pictures are less pubescent than the older. I'm yet to figure out if light intensity plays any part in this matter. Heliamphora spec. nov. Akopan (Akopan Tepui) This guy has been sitting in the corner of a terrarium behind other big fellows, barely seen by me for months. Recent rearrangements made me remove plant for the time being and the image I saw was very unpleasant. Too bloody red! Definitely not a sight to be seen in situ where this "species" grows in shaded areas mostly. This way spec. nov. Akopan found a new home and grows side by side with H. huberi under moderate light.
  4. 4 points
    Thanks Vince! After longer period of absence in terms of adding new pictures on forums, here's finally new batch: Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui) - A. Smith clone Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui) - M. Schach clone The extraordinary clone of this species and one of my 2 favourite uncinata clones. I couldn't help it - took far too many pictures of the plant, but hey, I don't get to work with such models every day! :) Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) - A. Wistuba clone If anyone happens to recognize the clone number of this plant, I'll be grateful :) Heliamphora purpurascens (Ptari Tepui) - BCP clone 36/33 Very interesting clone with quite atypical nextar spoon (triangular and elevated) when it comes to this species. Heliamphora x [elongata x ionasi] x self (Tramen Tepui) /a.k.a. H. nutans (Tramen) x ionasi?/ Very old cross which I got under 2 different names. Wistuba was selling it in early 2000s (that's when I got it) as Heliamphora nutans (Tramen) x ionasi. Then, I believe it was 2-3 years ago I received Heliamphora x [elongata x ionasi] x self which happened to look the same as my old plant. I was told it's an old Wistuba clone. Certainly the "old" name is not the correct one (knowing it's a natural hybrid) as H. nutans doesn't occur anywhere near Tramen Tepui. The only possibilities are H. arenicola and H. elongata. This way I'll rather stick with the elongata x ionasi being the main name for this plant until I gain further data. Any new information on this hybrid's naming issue would be highly appreciated!
  5. 3 points
    can the mods or admin do something about new members posting crap! seriously we don't need bombarding with rubbish ada
  6. 3 points
    Sun pitchers Heliamphora spec. nov. Akopan Heliamphora spec. nov. Angasima
  7. 3 points
    When you have been growing these plants for decades and you are generous and reliable, these kinds of exceptionally rare plants get shared around privately. They just don't often make it to the open market. Wait around and sooner or later everything considered the holy grail of collecting and growing will become generally available at affordable prices.
  8. 3 points
    My pulchella "Akopan" bloomed, just as I finally got a new camera!
  9. 3 points
    Just an update on my bicalcarata .. Since I put the extra light on it has gone strong and bicalcarata grows very fast and is making its 3 pitcher ..[emoji3] [emoji3] Sendt fra min EVA-L09 med Tapatalk
  10. 3 points
    Thanks Vince, Heliamphora tatei (Cerro Duida) x folliculata (Aparaman Tepui) - own hybridization, two years old plants Heliamphora huberi (Bonnetia forest)
  11. 3 points
    Hi, I would like to show you my plants ;) Terrarium by Janocix, on Flickr Rafflesiana var. alata Rafflesiana var. alata by Janocix, on Flickr Bicalcarata Bicalcarata by Janocix, on Flickr Dudley watts Dudley watts by Janocix, on Flickr Dutch Dutch by Janocix, on Flickr Jaws smiley Jaws smiley by Janocix, on Flickr Brutal shark Brutal shark by Janocix, on Flickr Brutal shark by Janocix, on Flickr Brutal shark by Janocix, on Flickr Red dagger Red dagger by Janocix, on Flickr Royal red Royal red by Janocix, on Flickr Louchapates Louchapates by Janocix, on Flickr Typical Typical by Janocix, on Flickr Mirror Mirror by Janocix, on Flickr Spider Spider by Janocix, on Flickr B52 B52 by Janocix, on Flickr Vitiligo Vitiligo by Janocix, on Flickr Vitiligo by Janocix, on Flickr Fuzzy tooth Fuzzy tooth by Janocix, on Flickr Draco Draco by Janocix, on Flickr Microdent Microdent by Janocix, on Flickr
  12. 2 points
    122310572_10214281092004472_7476157815627118611_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 2 22282083_10214281112324980_2034286327114033368_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 3 22281555_10214281107164851_8979341112517058381_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 4 22279853_10214281117565111_4705495137940233761_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 5 22279721_10214281094724540_6285228022487532070_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 6 22279677_10214281118925145_6272963155229253087_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 7 22228502_10214281093404507_8945827465771143859_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 822228331_10214281084964296_5101420548385551595_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 9 22228265_10214281115965071_5353956662317609632_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 10 22221832_10214281095484559_9038005390994072105_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 11 22221785_10214281108284879_8059060656872037841_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 12 22221769_10214281085084299_4743442786361869188_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 13 22221664_10214281097164601_1431015711558453521_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 14 22196481_10214281111164951_7648426508057073792_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 15 22196135_10214281113725015_3066917181539489290_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 16 22196008_10214281101484709_8970976735799130055_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 17 22195951_10214281087164351_8232730561505451523_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 18 22195633_10214281085364306_6680191187960799197_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 19 22195267_10214281096884594_504583070663768952_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 20 22195260_10214281088404382_6497485491100382407_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 21 22154675_10214281095924570_508262962667422013_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 22 22154568_10214281092564486_2929695175432755052_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 23 22154460_10214281113485009_4953934800096655077_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 24 22154421_10214281092884494_7574466381602796823_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" /> 25 22141315_10214281117045098_1270928613467836449_n by Guilom01, sur Flickr" />
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    Well, if Elephant Ears can have flowers why not Giraffe's Knees?
  15. 2 points
    An update: All the tadpoles of my first batch are going through the morphing process.
  16. 2 points
    Glad to see the vast improvement. I agree with manders, who has brought up the topic of light for bical on other threads. First those that disagree about this huge plant being a shade dweller need to look at some habitat photos, and there are many. It is not a shade growing plant and will quickly send its single stem to the top of the canopy. It will take shade as a youngster but heads for the sun. Everyone 's full sun is not equal based on location. Here in gulf coastal Florida they handle full AM to early afternoon sun in late June with no problem once acclimated. These are large plants and this amount of light seems to foster upper pitchers. I've never had a problem keeping them heavy in pure peat with some quartz soggy wet and sitting in water. When daytime temps are 30 -38 C, nights 25 - 28 C. I don't use relative humidity I use the dewpoint as its actually a much true form to measure how much water is in the air. Bicals thrive with dewpoints in the 23 - 27 C range. Remember I'm using dewpoint because the plants are outside in the open. You can have the relative humidity drop to 50 or 60% at the hottest part of the afternoon but thats not a factual what it feels like reading. I've mainly grown clone 5 from borneo exotics. A very vigorous clone and some seed varieties from malesiana tropicals were not near as vigorous or light tolerant. Still all respond well to strong light. In fact most lowlanders need and respond to better light than is often reported. This includes many amps, rafflesiana, and you want to see some killer black gracilis, give them a suntan and you will also get basal rosette pitchers just like ampullaria.
  17. 2 points
    As well as CP's I grow several plants of Aristolochia. These plants have amazing flowers that trap insects for pollination. A. sempervirens These flowers are only a couple of CM long, but the plant gets smothered with them. They have a mushroomy smell which is quite strong. The plant is fairly tardy in the UK. A grifithii Another fairly hardy plant (apparently). A macroura This is by far my favourite. The flowers are amazingly similar to Sarracenia pitchers but they absolutely stink. These are flowers from a couple of years ago, still waiting for buds to form this year. A gigantea This is an extremely vigorous plant that produces large flowers. They have no smell at all I also grow 2 forms of A. fimbriata that I am still waiting for them to flower and A. chiquitensis. I
  18. 2 points
    Wow, what a surprise, never thought that i will have the biggest trap. But i´m very lucky with it. Will see what my GJ Goliath will produce next year... i will try to get much more than 5cm.. hehe Anyway, Hannah, thank you very much for this competiton! Looking forward to have it again, next year. Best regards Matze
  19. 2 points
    One of the tadpoles from the first batch just popped out the front legs. So this guy is what came out of the eggs on the photographs on page 1.
  20. 2 points
    You are one of my best friend but how do you know that this plant is on facebook? open your mind and live with your time
  21. 2 points
    Hello. My name is Danny and I'm from Germany. I wanted to show you some pictures of my little collection of Petiolaris complex Drosera. I cultivated the types of section Lasiocephala since now 3 years very successful. I hope you like it. If any of you have any questions, then always bring it here. Bye Sry My english is Not so good.
  22. 2 points
    Hi all. I've updated the Nepenthes guide with some new features. First, you can now filter the distribution chart to show only species which grow in a particular location. Hit the ‘Enable Region Control’ button and tick the boxes of the locations you’re interested in. You can choose multiple locations at once. Hit ‘Go’, and the chart will be filtered and sorted based on your chosen configuration. Lots of people requested this feature - thanks to everyone who made the suggestion. Second, the calculator can now be used to visualise the altitudinal distribution of a single species, as opposed to just hybrids. Several growers have told me they like using the calculator for this purpose, including @Jurkylius earlier in this thread. Rather than forcing a visualisation by entering N. lowii x N. lowii, for example, you can now just select one species and see it plotted on the chart. As always, feedback / suggestions are appreciated. Hope everyone finds these features useful.
  23. 1 point
    Why is it everytime i go to one i feel like i'm being followed home by the drug squad?...
  24. 1 point
    Good thing I'm all of the above Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Dormancy occurs naturally as the plant gets less light and the temperatures get colder. It essentially goes to sleep for a couple of months, during which nothing will happen. It's like trees losing their leaves and then doing nothing until spring, but on a smaller scale. Some people keep their plants in the fridge during the dormancy period, but if you can place it on a cold windowsill it should go to sleep just as well.
  27. 1 point
    I'd like to add my thanks. Very much appreciate the time given to the 'cause'.
  28. 1 point
    It only got worse, so I sent a photo to the RHS as I am a member I can ask them about plant issues. They said it was almost certainly a cultural problem. The only thing I could make out of it was the compost must be wrong, which was half coir and half leafmould. So I took it out of its pot, and it had lost roots. I repotted it into half moss peat, half perlite, into a taller pot. https://photos.app.goo.gl/p1mktiJ1R1l7eu9f2 We shall see....
  29. 1 point
    Thank you for entering guys. All cracking vfts! Congratulations to the following 'biggest trappers' 1st Matze 2nd RickyM 2.5nd Rik 3rd Stu All entries appear below with rulers. Please could the three winners please send me your address details for posting of prizes. Prizes will be donated by Mike King, Trev and myself. Werds Stu Rik1127 RickyM Nigel Matze Dunc Dunc Bluedog
  30. 1 point
    Hi guys, an update of my sphagnum moss. It's growing well! Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    Hi everyone, Now that my Terrarium is up and running I thought I should introduce it properly and show you the steps of the build along the way, which may help to inspire others to create similar projects. I used to have a small terrarium, which consisted of an old 45x30x25cm fish tank, lit by a 6400K 45W spiral compact fluorescent. It worked ok and the light certainly was powerful enough just to grow plants but it had problems with keeping the heat under control, keeping the water conditions stable and inevitably; I simply ran out of space! Last year I found a larger, second-hand fish tank and soon put together the idea of an LED build for a more hi-tech and efficient terrarium to allow my plants to really thrive. Here, finally is the result of my setup... It's a 75cm x 32cm x 39cm grow space that's warm and humid - in order for me to grow tropical species year round. I went with 55x 3W star LEDs, comprising 28x Cool white and 27x Warm white in equal spacing. The LEDs came from Michael Houlder at FutureEden (via his ebay shop). He's a great guy and helped me with my initial questions into LED wiring and electronics. I needed a heatsink to mount the LEDs to and also to form the entire hood of my terrarium. After a lot of searching around, I opted for a custom-made, black-annodised aluminium heatsink from Birmingham Aluminium (http://www.bal-group.com/home). They were very helpful and communicative to discuss my needs and clarified the thermal properties of the heatsink would successfully handle the proposed 55x 3W LED heat load. This was the single most expensive item in the entire build, but was critical to ensure I had a lasting terrarium with safe temperatures. The heatsink sits perfectly flush with the top, left and right sides of the tank, but has a very small 1cm air gap at the back - providing a small but useful exchange of fresh air as well as some space for any wiring to go into, or out of, the tank. Here's the heatsink, with a pair of T-bar handles installed so that I can lift the hood off (relatively) easily... The spacing for the LEDs was carefully checked using a handy PAR calculator via an excel spreadsheet. This had been set up for aquarium enthusiasts to calculate that the proposed spread of light would achieve a desired PAR level. If I remember correctly, I shot for a PAR around 2000, which is close to full sunlight (aim high, right!) LED's glued in place with thermal adhesive... With the spacing sorted, I then planned the wiring, making sure it was as neat and efficient as possible but still allowing for an even distribution of cool and warm white. The two 'sets' of LEDs are run on different drivers so I have the option of having the Warm and/or Cool white banks on at any one time. This also allows for future adjustment to light schedules and time overlaps. The wire used is silicon-sheathed which is heat proof and highly flexible. Planning the wiring.. Main wiring paths soldered in place... First test of the drivers and warm white LEDs... Wow, extremely bright and painful to look at. A stopped-down photograph shows the individual LEDs better than our blinded eyes can see.. Here is the hood in place with tested lights on - remember this is still only the warm white set (half the total)... Time to wire and test the Cool white set... All LEDs on together (camera stopped down to be able to see properly)... (The yellow wire is an earth - connected all the way to the plug earth and will be attached to the aluminium hood for safety in case of any wiring faults that may occur) Full brightness over the tank... My original ideal PAR calculations, incorporated the use of 30° lenses in order to direct the LED light efficiently downwards onto the plants. At this stage I hadn't installed them yet and it is quite clear that a lot of light is being wasted in all directions. The following composite photo shows the light spill of the LEDs by highlighting what little effect the main room light had when on or off! If you look at the carpet, you can see the bands of shadowing as the different rows of LEDs catch the edge of the sideboard... I glued each individual lens on as the holders they come with did not offer a good enough fit, especially with the soldered wires in place. I discovered that stacks of 2p coins formed the perfect sized weight whilst the epoxy was setting. (I opted for epoxy as the chemicals in superglue can apparently fog up the clear lenses!)... With all the lenses in place, the light spread is much more defined inside the tank with very little over spill outside.. Out of curiosity, I placed my phone into the bottom of the tank (35cm from the lights) and took a light level reading using it's inbuilt sensor... 38,000 lux; equivalent to sunlight! This was by no means a scientifically precise reading, but it was an excellent sign for me. Before filling up with water and introducing plants, I was concerned that all of my careful wiring and expenditure was at risk of corrosion from the high humidity conditions. Therefore I decided to fabricate a 'light shield' from 3mm perspex sheet. I checked the specifications and light transmittance is 92% - I could afford to lose 8% light in order to protect my hard work. The shield is simply a box-like structure of epoxy jointed perspex, mounted to the aluminium with clear silicone sealant. I left the threaded rods long, that come from the handles above and allowed them to pass through the perspex by drilling holes. This gives me options to attach anything to the rods in future, and they do not interfere with the light spread... Now the terrarium was safe and ready to start thinking about plants. I placed some eggcrate in the bottom, in order to allow me to have a 'reserve' of water in the bottom of the tank for stability, humidity and for the ultrasonic fogger to use... Here is the fogger in place. The eggcrate is elevated by a series of upturned 8cm net pots, which are rigid enough to hold whilst being fairly open to allow water to pass freely through... Following Tom Bennet's tutorials, I was able to introduce a Raspberry Pi system into the terrarium, constantly monitoring temp and humidity and allow for the use of autonomous mains sockets. Here is the 'powerhouse' (the raspberry pi)... It reads temperature and humidity via an AM2302 sensor, connected via CAT5 ethernet cable (placed well out of the way of the splashing ultrasonic fogger!!)... You can view live readings from my terrarium here... https://thingspeak.com/channels/149828 The fogger is connected to an Energenie RF controlled mains socket, which is triggered by the Raspberry pi every hour at one minute past, for a duration of six minutes (day and night). This gives a boost to humidity, yet is unobtrusive and dramatically extends the life of the disc in the ultrasonic fogger as it is effectively only operational for 144 minutes in a 24 hour period. The constant RH monitoring means that the raspberry Pi can be set to trigger the fogger based on a desired humidity range, but I don't think this is necessary for me at the moment. The last object I added to the system was a simple aquarium algae magnet, which sits permanently in the top left corner of the front glass. This allows me to wipe the front pane clear of any condensation if/when I want to be able to see clearly inside... That's the whole setup so far. It's been challenging at times but very fun and extremely rewarding to learn along the way. I am more than happy with the results and the effect already on the plants living inside. My next post will show the plants inside.
  32. 1 point
    Hi, may I hijack here too. D. bassleri in the wild with tadpoles.
  33. 1 point
    It's good to meet you Dave, welcome back. Sorry to hear about you losing your plants. I am new to CP's and I have learnt a huge amount from this forum. I am beginning to understand how you must of felt. I killed off a VFT a few years ago, not knowing how to look after it. My interest began when I wandered around a garden centre and became fascinated by a dying Sarracenia, why was it giving up the ghost when all other plants surrounding it were thriving?? I read up a bit and became totally hooked. Sorry to ramble on a bit, anyway, welcome back sir. Keith.
  34. 1 point
    The seller has been growing nepenthes way over 10 years now and as Osmosis says with time, good disposition and approach you can build a very good network in the hobby. The "rare" plants in private collections are seldom offered openly on Facebook, forums etc. They use to go between experienced growers and privatly.
  35. 1 point
    Hi everyone! My CP interest was sparked this past summer when I saw VFTs at my local Sprouts. I decided to save one and within a week, I got another! I am now a proud grower of 6 different VFT typicals, a bunch of Drosera capensis sprouts (they germinated less than 2 weeks ago), a couple Sarracenia purpurea (?), three baby clumps of Cephalotus, and a Nepenthes. I have been on the FTC forums, but since I have diversified into other Genera, I figured it would be good to be a part of other forums. I'm excited to learn more about these peculiar plants and discuss them with fellow enthusiasts! Mary
  36. 1 point
    I have mine at 24-27 degrees a day and around 20 at night. Sendt fra min EVA-L09 med Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
    Thanks for all the entries guys. I will post the winners up over the next few days (when I'm not snowed under with work )
  38. 1 point
    Very nice collection! What are the conditions for your Nepenthes?
  39. 1 point
    Hi Mathias, As Stewart has so little time we are re-setting things as a foundation in The Netherlands with an actual international board running things (as opposed to a not for profit organization with only Stewart on the books). Basically we are already a foundation (notary work is done). Right now the bank is checking the identification papers of the first 3 board members (Tim Bailey, John v.d. Werf and myself, others have agreed to join the board and will be added when things are running) so an actual bank account will be available and not just a paypal account linked to Stewart. With that Chambe of commerce can be completed. After that...we need to reactivate the dead website. It was frozen after many hacks, so we need to rebuilt that more strong. When that works I can meet the requirements for Charity status and we are off again. For the moment the plants in Leiden are doing well and we had some additions since this last post. Check out our Facebook page for that https://www.facebook.com/Ark-of-Life-147726941956397/
  40. 1 point
    Hello, I want show my terrariums for carnivorous plants. Now have 2 terrariums, one for highland and one for lowland plants. Sorry for English but for some cases I use google translator. Lowland: Terrarium ExoTerra, 4 pc fan with timer, light Blau Lumina T5 4x39W, Hagen Moonsoon RS400 for wattering and heat mat. Highland: This terrarium is build from polystyrene with 4 to 5 cm thickness. Into wall I created rock background from gunfoam and painted by epoxy for watter resistance. For watterinf usinf high presure pump with 10 jets and one pump in fountain. In back wall is a hole for fogger and senzors temperature/humidity. Light is same than into lowland terarium but it is longer and stronger. All this devices controls special device which turns on/off divices on the basis of the measured values. Last thing which want say is cooling. This was the strongest thing which I had to do on the highland terrarium. The principle is as follows. Using old fridge compressor with evaporate part. Compressor is hide in the cabinet. Evaporate part is in left side of terrarium. When temperature rises above 25°C, cooling system turns on and 2x 9cm pc fan turn on too. After temperature decreases belowe 15°C, cooling system turns off. And the last some nepenthes photos. Nepenthes x Viking Nepenthes smilesii Nepenthes mirabilis Nepenthes madagascarensis Nepenthes ventricosa x mirabilis var. globosa Nepenthes albomarginata red Nepenthes x bloodmarry Nepenthes bicalcarata
  41. 1 point
    I feel I'm like some kind of groupie, but I love them all ! Except for the last hybrid, so called Heliamphora sp. "Tramen", sometimes labelled H. elongata '60s, or whatever. I've come across it too many times under different names. That put me off! As for the H. uncinata, they are very well grown. The first one is quite stocky and I got those details from MS about the second one: "near the cliff face! Falling down! The smaller gracile form". If that can be of any interest to you :). Congratulations, those vivid colours are always a great view.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Here's a different species that has appeared in another Nepenthes... https://photos.app.goo.gl/CN3v1gYaljwLpPFy1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/4F9O3hd8yW3RlKwe2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/vc7ZwfMvlbteJZgN2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/cfZzJJZoDJhQMl0X2
  44. 1 point
    Hi everyone. I've built an interactive guide to Nepenthes species: https://www.carnivorousplants.co.uk/resources/nepenthes-interactive-guide/ It includes a lowland/highland temperature chart, and a species list which can be sorted by altitudinal range or alphabetically, as required. I've also created a hybrid calculator, which can estimate the ideal conditions for a hybrid based on its parents' habitats. Many thanks to Rob Cantley of BE for suggesting this feature. I hope other growers find this useful. I'm keen to update and improve it based on feedback - several people have suggested a 'sort by country/geography' feature for the species list, which I'm currently working on. Any other ideas, please just shout. Cheers, Tom
  45. 1 point
    In the summer if the weather is ok I put all my Nepenthes out in the garden. They catch their own insects then (usually spiders in the night for some reason). If i find the occasional bug in the house i will throw that in an open pitcher as well. I dont think they need a lot of feeding, I am not all that bothered by feeding them. I think light and temperature fluctuation are the most important for Nepenthes to survive. Humidity also doesnt seem to have such a big influence on most of my nepenthes, but I live in a pretty humid environment. As long as it doesn't drop below 60% they are ok.
  46. 1 point
    Heliamphora neblinae (Cerro Neblina, Brazil, Venezuela) Heliamphora neblinae (Avispa, Venezuela) Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) Heliamphora exappendiculata (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora ionasii Heavily Red Striped Heliamphora nutans Heliamphora minor Heliamphora chimantensis (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela)
  47. 1 point
    Since I planted my drosophyllum seedling the weather has been terrible, so I think it's only just got established. Hopefully the sun over the next few weeks will do it some good. Anyway here's a photo of how it was today.
  48. 1 point
    So I bought a starter culture of Sphagnum moss when I purchased my carnies from Cultivo Carnivores. Therese told me she got the original moss in a container she received a plant in from California Carnivores a few years back. And looking at their website, they sell New Zealand Sphagnum moss. One of the species harvested there, looks like what I've got, Sphagnum cristatum. This is when I received it on 21·07·2017 I placed it on a bed of dried long fibre Sphagnum moss. The container has 4 x 4mm holes drilled into the lid, and 2 x 4mm holes about 10cm above the bottom, to get some air to the moss while maintaining high humidity. Its kept wet with Distilled water, and had a light sprinkling of Orchid fertilizer a day after I got it. This was taken on 11·08·2017 So far it seems things are stable, even with a little bit of growth. All in all it looks like I'll be able to keep this cultivar alive and eventually be able to harvest it for my CP's Here are the pics I took today 15·08·2017 to help ID the species of Sphagnum moss. Cheers, J.P.
  49. 1 point
    The next Heliamphora tatei (Cerro Duida) x folliculata (Aparaman Tepui) has an adult pitcher. Heliamfora ? Probably pulchella. Heliamphora parva (Cerro Neblina) Heliamphora exappendiculata (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela) Another clone Heliamphora exappendiculata (Chimanta Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora uncinata Giant Heliamphora uncinata (Amuri Tepui, Venezuela) Heliamphora collina (Venamo; formerly known as H. spec. Venamo)
  50. 1 point
    This is what three months of growth looks like. First picture taken on day of planting: Darlingtonia in a white pot with peat/perlite, and some Sphagnum heads on top of it, pressed into the peat. The pot has no drainage holes, hoping to keep it wet easily. The Sphagnum loves it, and I hope the Cobra loves it too. May 13th 2017 August 4th, 2017 I try to keep the cobra above the moss, if needed I'll pull out some of the moss but for now I just push it back from time to time.