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  1. Yesterday
  2. Zerbirus

    yescarnivorousfarm

    Ok so ive brought a few packets of seeds from him since february. Ihad mixed results during late winter when temps were lower (1 dubia, 1 aristochioides , 0 naga, 12 lavicola germinated) but in march maxima wavy 50%+ , 0 dairi atm etc and now a few from may are germinating with the speed growing rate amount for the latest 4 seemingly accurate. They were flower stalks collected wild by people there then sold to him, I presume they spread some seed in the area and dont poach them. Hes very good with the amount and sometimes throws in bonus seeds if you buy multiple at once. Never had any issues with him. If they were poached then I wouldnt buy from him but ive never had any issues with him as a seller and hes been truthful about seed stocks when I asked in february if he was getting this and that soon.
  3. You need to keep pestering them, they tend to ignore you after the first or 2nd email unless its to do with sales. I sent an email complaining about the size of a plant received (half the size) and a damaged peltata and afterwards about a damaged bicalcarata from the same order then another email for a non rooted, mouldy base nepenthes with a maggot living on it. It took another email before refunds (didnt say which for) and then another 2 emails and then not 1 but a 2nd paypal dispute (2 orders received a week apart) before i got a response! and then they only half refunded me the mouldy plant and 0 for the bicalcarata as 24hrs is too long to complain apparently when chasing up other plants first. Ive spent £500+ with roraima and i said if this is how they treat me then i cant order in the future unless its a one off, no response to that either!
  4. Guy

    Psittacina advice, please

    Oh, right. Didn't realise that. A larger tray will be procured tomorrow. Any thoughts on what could be planted in this smaller tray full of sphagnum? Now I've got it I might as well use it--cost me £5!!! Thanks again. Guy
  5. Richard Bunn

    Psittacina advice, please

    I would use a wider tray. You need the lobster traps to be in the water. The plant gets quite submerged.
  6. Melle

    Dionaea "Camouflage"

    Seed or TC?
  7. Guy

    Psittacina advice, please

    A floating S.psittacina! Thanks for the advice. This isn't the plant in the earlier photo, but one I bought yesterday from a local garden centre. No idea of its provenance, but it looked healthy and worth trying in this new (to me) set up. It's planted at one end of the tray so another couple of these can be fitted in. Guy
  8. Guy

    Floppy Drosera

    Some of my Drosera have gone all floppy. The attached photo shows D.filiformis ssp filiformis, D. binate var multifida and D.dichotoma all drooping alarmingly! Is this what they do, or am I doing something wrong? This will be my first full year of growing CPs, so I don't know what to expect. Thanks. Guy
  9. lucien01700

    Dionaea Feather Tooth

    I acquired some Stéfan plants, but I do not know this one.
  10. rjgibbs

    Sarracenia cerberus?

    Not quite three heads - but two!
  11. lucien01700

    Dionaea "Camouflage"

    Hello all Plant resulting from a mutation of 'Blanche hermine'
  12. Richard Bunn

    Ramblings in the neighbourhood II

    Wow. Thanks for sharing these photos.
  13. Hello, registration will close next tuesday, June, 23rd at 11.59pm. After that date we cannot accept any registrations. Please register, if you still haven't and would like to come. Regards, Christian
  14. Hi! Stewart! how are you?, I always read your publications about new specimens and it is fascinating and incredible!, I wanted to ask you how I can get seeds of nepenthes palawanensis and attemboroughii? I love it and my climate is more for the highlands.

    Regards

    Joel

  15. I recently got a nepenthes but by the time it arived it had no roots. In the discussion i would like to see if maxsea fertilizer will help promoting te root growth in nepenthes.
  16. Last week
  17. werds

    Ramblings in the neighbourhood II

    Just incredible species, thank you for sharing your photos!
  18. Chimaera

    Where's my rain?

    Interesting. So the theory is not matched by the results. It may be that your water contains sulphate which is not removed by boiling. I think at least some water softeners replace calcium with sodium; it may be that if you boiled in a kettle with limescale in it you reversed the reaction, with the addition of losing some water. My chemistry is not up to thinking why.
  19. This intrigued me, so I've tried it! We have a water softener, so it was possible to test both hard and softened water before and after boiling. The water was boiled in a kettle, just once. Here's the results from my TDS hand held meter. Hard water before boiling 259 ppm, after boiling 268 ppm. Softened water before boiling 276 ppm, after boiling 311 ppm. No idea why the increase was so much greater for the softened water compared to the hard water. Others may be able to shed light on this. It would seem boiling isn't a good idea. No doubt the increases would have been even greater if the water had been left to boil for any length of time. Guy
  20. Another one of the sites I visited on my wanderings this year. This site is about 3 kms north east of my place (as the crow flies) and is part of the catchment (upstream) of the creek on my place. The main interest here is Utricularia kimberleyensis as it's the only place I've found it locally. In a lot of surface flow of water over fine sand but also a lot of exposed lateritic rock. Slope was very slight but water depth was a good 50mm with good movement. Towards the end of the wet season as the surface water disappeared so too did the U. kimberleyensis. In much the same environment is utricularia limosa, although in water a bit shallower. Never saw it in the absence of surface water. A lot of Utricularia leptoplectra, again mostly standing in the stream of water but some just out of it. An insect (probably) had eaten through the stalk of some flowers hence the photo of the reverse (yellow) side. As everywhere, there's Utricularia nivea. Utricularia chrysantha is a late starter coming up in drier spots or where water levels have dropped. Colours are closer to those at my place rather than the pure yellow which seems most common elsewhere. Not many Drosera, most of those D. fulva. Drosera dilitatopetiolaris And only one Drosera aquatica. I suspect there's too much surface water flow.
  21. Chimaera

    We all love free seedlings

    Thanks. They are all such lovely little plants. And the Drosera are growing surprisingly fast; the largest have gone from 5mm to 15mm diameter in a couple of weeks. I gather you treat Utricularia a bit like moss; let it fill the surface of pots of other plants and appreciate it.
  22. linuxman

    Is this S. flava var ornata?

    Well, he plant looks too green to me - has it been kept in shaded conditions? Ornata should have yellowish-green or vivid yellow pitchers in direct sunlight and be lined with variable, dark red or purple reticulate veins. From the evidence shown here I would say it seems to be a S. flava var flava. However, the lid and spout on the lip of your plant look like examples of rubricorpora from Wewahitchka, FL. I would try giving it full sunlight and seeing if it darkens. I've got plants in the sun all day which have still not developed the red colouration.
  23. Platty

    Is this S. flava var ornata?

    The plant was sold to me as rubricorpora (during the winter, so had no pitchers). It's clearly not that. Thanks for your help.
  24. Alexis

    Where's my rain?

    All my plants are living outside while I prepare the ground for their new greenhouse. They're in the shade all morning just to try and keep transpiration low, so this year is a write off for colour (and storm Hugo flattened a few pitchers).
  25. Naz86

    Nepenthes for beginners

    Thank you everyone for your comments. It's has definitely been of great help.
  26. carambola

    We all love free seedlings

    Lots of Drosera (maybe most) come out of the ground with round leaves, they get longer or wider (or both) as they grow older, provided they have enough light. So, there's no way to tell which species those seedlings belong to! It's pretty hard to kill Utricularia, as it doesn't have any roots or leaves. Any part of the plant can continue growing. It will look miserable for a while, but most likely it'll come back and invade all of your pots.
  27. carambola

    The fastest heliamphora growing?

    All Heliamphora are really slow growers compared to most other plants, but the Heliamphora nutans on my windowsill sends out pitchers like there's no tomorrow. In the past 6 months it's gone from 1 growing point to 5, and as soon as each pitcher is fully grown the next one is on its way. All it needs is water and light.
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